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Update: The issue was that a couple of vermins found a way to get to the top of the fuel tank and chewed off the insulation of the fuel pump wire. so it got shorted to either the chassis or the other power wire. I've now insulated the wires heavily and added Honda Chilli tape with a wire loom...

I’ve taken out the pump relay out of the engine bay and tested it with a 12v supply and it clicks as expected

All I’ve done is added a sound system and upgraded big 3 wiring

it only has 28K miles on it. still fairly new. I hope its not a new ECU. I'm going to try changing out the relays to see if that is it. I've checked the recall page and my VIN does not have any recalls

UPDATE: FIXED See this post for the solution I was wondering if anyone can help me narrow down the issue before I take it to my personal mechanic. Backstory: Last week (and a half?) ago I actually managed to empty out my gas tank (not on purpose) after I had ran my errands. Before turning the...

It's a 60A amplifier

It has 2x 30A fuses so it sounds like the amp is drawing 60A. What amp do you have? I'll take a look into it

Upgrade to a 4 Gauge or even a 0 gauge if you want to add more things in the trunk

6 Gauge is on the maximum end of that length if your amp consumes 40A (check what the fuses are) I run a 4 Gauge for a short 7ft run then split to a 8 Gauge for a couple of micro Audiocontrol amps

What gauge wiring is your current wire? Also is it CCA or OFC cable? It matters for the amount of Amperage the wire can carry especially with that long of a run. Also don't run it through the hood release hole. There's a rubber grommet that all the cars electronics go through right behind the...

I use T-Mobiles sync up drive. It's cheap ($10-$15/month), has a top level overview of OBD2 diagnostics capability (just tells you if your car has a problem). Can tell you where your car is, trip tracker (with stats), give's you LTE hotspot (2GB/month), notifications if your car gets...

The lag is the same as using wirless carplay in Kenwood or Alpine systems. The great thing about this adapter is that because you're using the stock carplay app, all your functions for carplay remains the same. Also a noteworthy mention is that when my car is still on, connected with wireless...

I linked to Amazon US. May not be available in CA this adapter should be for CarPlay only. Wireless Android Auto is not very universal as there are hundreds of different android specs in the world and not all of them has the requirements to sustain wireless connectivity performance

no need to tap anything. just get a T-Harness https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AX-DSP-HON2

Hey y'all Ya'll might've seen my previous post on how I got wireless carplay with the stock headunit from the post here. I'm back again to let you know that I've found an updated adapter that works without having to root your device and install another APK to get the wireless carplay dongle to...

Have you looked for Pac-Audio or idatalink solutions? I think they have SWC units specific for our cars

I've had a daisata unit installed in my ride once. I didn't like the sound output they were providing. Wether it be Hi or Lo level, it just sounded like crap; Even when corrected with a hardware DSP. I decided to rip it back out and returned the unit

my 2 amps are mounted under the passenger seat. I have a 10" RF P3 shallow sub. You can look through my post history for parts list and stuff I just have the spare tire and jack kit that I don't need to use under that. Call AAA lol.

It's not terribly hard to learn. This was my first attempt at building a sub box and it came out pretty nice.

I made it myself. It was a hassle to work with fiberglass for the first time but super satisfied with the result. Kept most of my trunk space which was my end goal