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That's right. Forgot about that.

Ktuner website seems to suggest that a jailbreak is acceptable for Ktuner as well. Instead of sending in your ECU, it gets "unlocked" remotely for $250. Go on Hondata's website and look up "jailbreak". I'm on an island in Greece and can't afford to send in my ECU as the FK8 is my daily driver...

Not 100% sure but I think that a Hondata Jailbreak is sufficient for Ktuner as well.

From what I understand, it usually starts on the second or third push of the button. If it was the actual starter, the situation would be deteriorating progressively. I'm really convinced that it's either a defective or mis-aligned switch somewhere.

Thé clutch switch is inside the car. Under the dash. They don’t check that for a clutch job. any mechanic should be able to check if the switch is functioning properly.

Could be all sorts of other things. Sensor on brake or clutch pedals or the switch itself. Do you get a message on the dash when you hit the switch the first time it doesn't start?

Would make me doubt the knowledge level that this tuner has with the FK8.

Yeah. I would suggest re-instating the limiter. Is it still under warranty?

8000 rpm is an engine over-rev; it's not designed to hit that. Why would you remove the rev limiter? It's there to avoid damaging the engine.

In reference to the K&N, throw it in the garbage. Immediately. It's doing one of two things: i) letting lots of crap into your engine, ii) coating your intake, MAF, etc with sticky, oily crap. All of this without any performance improvement over factory whatsoever. It does make a cool...

But how did coolant get into a cylinder? Can't be due to a coil.

300V 5W30. 0W20 is only mandated in the US and Canadian owner manuals. In Europe (and other regions), the manual states that, if you do decide to use 0W20, it MUST be Honda Type II and not the regular 0W20 used in all other Honda engines. It also clearly states that 0W20 is for fuel efficiency...

Got my 2018 condenser changed on Honda's dime (last month) and all good.

The Armytrix uses a tap on a vacuum hose for the exhaust valve. That way, on auto mode, it can decide if and when to open the valve up. So it's not just for power. I was thinking of a splitter but I don't think that will work in this case. It looks like it's one or the other. I wish that the...

I have an Armytrix exhaust and the valve is controlled through a remote (or phone app) with a dongle connected to the OBD plug. I‘d like to get a Hondata which also requires a connection to the OBD port in order to fully benefit (plan on loading Hondata app on head unit). But I don’t want to...

The gear selection is mechanical. The rev-match is electronic. Completely unrelated. If anything, perfect rev-matching should help in smoothing out mechanical engagement as it's doing (perfectly) what we should be doing on every downshift. Rev-match doesn't do a thing for up-shifts.

There’s breather tubes for anything mechanical. Intake for the engine. Corrosion guaranteed over time in all electrical connections. Several ECU’s submerged. This thing is toast.

Don't offer to buy it from the insurance company until they tell you how much they will be paying you. If they smell any interest in you buying it from them, it may influence the settlement amount that they will be offering you.

The alternator is not sufficient to properly charge a discharged battery. Try putting it on a proper charger overnight.

This happens to my NSX if I leave it sit for a while. The battery weakens and wreaks havoc with the electronics. I fully charge the battery, drive it around and everything returns to normal. You did say that it was sitting for a month so I'm willing to bet that this is what's happening.