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Price isn’t much of a concern but just for use case as to not wasting. I’ve bought paragon $1600 set front and rear for the R, but would like to keep oem hat with cheap rings(or replaceable blanks really) for daily. Paragon doesn’t sell blanks or even intend to offer blanks, which I think their...

Can you source blank rings for OEM 20-21 hats? Been looking for cheap but daily reliable and not paragon quality/price just for street driving..

Lose on the adjustable or the bolt to the sway bar?

19x9.5+45 285/30 all around lowered on swift. ride height no rub, any bump would rub. Had to trim rear and bend tab up front. You should not rub on stock suspension imo but as it compresses, you will no matter what unless you have camber arms and camber up front which I am still stock for both...

Would a set of Paragon rotors provide any benefit if all things equal on street over the budget option rotors? Longevity, rust coatings or anything that would justify Paragon's two piece besides track and cost.

Just changed my oil today after 12600 miles. I use Amsoil 5W-30 signature rated 25k miles with their oil filter rated 15k miles in normal/harsh conditions. Driven 45k miles and only changed oil 4 times in the last 2 years I've had it. I did a track day with my recent previous oil at 8k miles and...

Just curious if you’ve tried more bushing thickness if that would be the difference in NVH with both ends?

Got it, missed the part you’re doing brake lines 😅.

can someone explain the purpose of rear brake bleeding if it has not been exposed to air pockets?

Have you lowered yet? Planning to get same fitment but already on swift ?

Boost Blue just 2 months ago. MSRP+$3k Accessories so $42k. And $47k with taxes and other fees in Cali.

You should just open it back up and double check everything. I may gotten my cmc delay valve delete, not really sure. But my clutch is definitely quite harsh. In first gear, once I reach the slipping point, I let it sit for a second or two to get the car moving and slowing let my foot off...

Should be the same size as the studs on the downpipe to frontpipe. You’ll have to drill a hole on the turbo stud and put new thread then a new bolt to screw in.

You can get the frontpipe and cut both the frontpipe-midpipe flange and use a leak-proof 3" clamp. Just so you wouldn't have to deal with bad wield or such. Currently have aFe catted downpipe, the 2.5" exit and 2.5" entrance of my thermal R&D kind of annoy me while everything else is 3" I plan...

Motor is too small and already have two path(muffler) for exhaust to escape. You’re doing it for the sound rather than gain, so it wouldn’t make a difference imo rather you add a Y pipe or replacing the pipe. Of course until you push power and/or constant full throttle, then straight out would...

Both actually. Either add a Y pipe like #2 or cut and wield a Y pipe like #1.

Why not just leave the muffler alone and add a Y pipe where the green and red is? Same thing, beside, cutting into the muffler would defeat the purpose of it muffling. If you don't want to add a Y pipe which would stick low... then cut off the pipe after the muffler and meet it with the bottom...

I'm assuming you came from NA motor. L15 are meant to be built around turbo so displacement wouldn't matter much just like throttle body. I mean, why increase displacement when you can "force induced" to fill the difference. If you have the money, it's certainly feasible imo. You'll just have to...

Most aftermarket exhaust will have a thick packed resonator to absorb the rasp which even stock exhaust fails to absorb.

Boomba recirculating