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I would use the crossovers. The radio /amp may have them already electronically crossed over, but using the external crossovers will not hurt anything and they are tuned for those tweeters. It's insurance that bass won't get played theough the tweeter. I don't know what Honda did. My Civic...

That sub may not be the best option for a free air application. A proper enclosure and amplifier would make a big difference in sound quality and quantity. Kicker cx400.1 would work well and is less expensive than the audiocontrol, and is 1 ohm stable. Nothing against the 1.300, that's what I...

Glad it helped. Running wire through the fender /door jamb is never a good option. If your car is an automatic, there is probably a grommet / blank where the clutch slave cylinder mounts.

I got a g7play to replace my g5 plus, which replaced a g4play. It really is a smooth phone, works very nice. It was also on sale for $140. When I got my G5 plus, I thought about getting a second one, so when I rode out / broke the first one, I'd be ready. Glad I didnt. The G7 seems really nice...

Fuse is a mini anl, which is pretty vibration resistant, much more so than the glad agu fuses. It is secured to OEM wiring with a couple of wire ties. I'm not worried about it at all. If I would have mounted the amps to a rack/plate like I did the EQ/DSP, I'm not sure I would have had the...

The weather and my schedule cooperated today for me to get the DSP and 4 channel amp hooked up and working. I used two runs of 9 conductor "speed wire" from the radio to the DSP, and from the amp back to the factory harness to the speakers. I ran it down the passenger side. Everything came apart...

Metra makes a dash kit, harness, and other accessories to do a aftermarket replacement without too much trouble. It looks pretty good and factory like, depending on which radio you get. I didn't have any problems with the factory radio itself, so I added a DSP/EQ, and a couple of small amps and...

I posted these in my write up from last year, but hopefully they'll be of some help for you.

If it has a factory sub, then you should tap into the sub wires, otherwise you won't get any bass because the factory amp has already filtered it out with its crossovers. You can unplug the factory sub, or leave it. Try it both ways and see what sounds best to you.

I haven't found or seen anything in my HB Sport.

This has become my favorite budget recommendation for a good sounding sub. Everything is included and it sounds impressive. It's also available in a 12" for a few dollars more...

I used the Hon-2 harness as a plug and play pigtail for my AudioControl DSP. Unfortunately I haven't had time to finish the project, but the harness is good, but there are better DSPs than the Axxess.

Some (many) powered subs have high level inputs, so you can just tap into the rear speaker wires. If your car has a factory sub, use its speaker wire instead. If it doesn't have high level inputs, you can use a basic line out converter that ties into the speaker wires and turns them into a rca...

I've read on this site that someone had figured out a way to choose one(of the three)v by connecting to a different wire or adding a resistor or something. It's probably best to do a search and see if you can find the solution that worked.

If would have been much easier and less expensive to swap the radio for an aftermarket unit. I did this for a challenge to do a complete OEM integration and keep everything looking original, but sounding awesome.

It's been a slow process trying to finish this project. Today my plug and play t harness arrived. It is a Metra/ Axxess AX-DSP-HON2. I'd previously tried using a Metra 70/71 style harness, but there were too many pins missing on the 70 side. I've seen where someone had borrowed pins from...

and I used the Metra 82-7803 plates. Work perfectly. The included (?) JL plates may be fine, but they won't be a perfect fit, and you may have to drill holes in the door. Ryan

There are several aftermarket upgrade systems that retain the factory system and remotes, but add all door protection, impact sensor, started kill relay, siren, flashing LED. My preferred system is the Firstech/Compustar FT7300 "Alarm it" with the Blade AL interface module to pick up the data...

If you have a Sport with the basic smaller non touchscreen radio, replacing it is pretty straightforward. Metra makes a harness adapter for the radio and camera. Metra/Axxces also makes a steering wheel controls interface module. I considered going this route, but decided to go with Audio...

That's an acceptable ground location. The purists and tech support guys will say body sheet metal (as in the kick panels or elsewhere) is better, because the sub dash supports are bolted in after painting. The lack of clean metal could cause a resistance /poor ground connection. I have seen many...