UPDATE: Turns out it was the rear rotors. Even the shop who did the troubleshooting was surprised because the OEM ones looked good. Must have been just enough wear to catch once in awhile and cause the terrible grinding noise. A new pair of StopTech rear rotors did the trick. Word of advice...
I did about a dozen 40-20 stops in about a 3 day period. Still didn’t fix it. Hoping the new rotors will. I’ll update on Monday, hopefully with good news.
Yes, I’ve exhausted every option so I took it into a brake shop. They looked at everything, double checked the electronic e-brake, and did their own “lube and tapper” and after about an hour of driving it returned. The rear rotors are still stock so we are going to swap them out on Monday and...
Update: after a few wonderfully quiet days after changing everything out, the rears both decided to act up. Took it all apart and nothing seems like it rubbing or anything. Odd thing is after driving for about 10 minutes it virtually goes away. Until the next time I drive it after sitting for...
Agreed, parts are in tight supply right now. The first place I ordered the rotors from canceled the order after two days because they said their inventory was off and the company back ordered them.
They are StopTech Centric Parts Front Rotors, Part #128.40098
All done. Happy I bought new front rotors too. Bye bye waves lol. Under $400 total, that’s less then 1/3 of the price Honda dealership quoted and I feel the aftermarket parts (in this case) are better quality over the oem ones. Call me old fashioned, but rotors and pads should last longer then...
Ordered the Akebono pads recommended here. Also decided to just get front Stoptech one-piece rotors while I’m at it. I don’t track the car so didn’t want to drop a bunch of $ for two-piece. Plus , I don’t like the oem waves so at least this will look better lol.
They are the original rotors, so just over 19k miles. They are grooved, but they looked that way when I bought the car at 4k miles. If I have to I will, just rather spend that money on other upgrades to the car.
So I recently went in to have my service done at the local dealership. They stated the car needed new pads and rotors. I agree I need some pads, but I question the rotors quote. I use it as my daily, and being its a 2019, you can tell I don't drive a ton. Not a track car either, so not a lot of...
I’ve searched and found nothing, so if I’ve missed it please feel free to delete.
Curious to see owners reactions to after getting a Hondata FlashPro on a relatively stock FK8? Not a FBO w/FlashPro car, but maybe an intake or small upgrade but pretty much stock + FlashPro.
Mainly, does anyone...
Update: Dealership concluded codes were related to fuel issues. They said due to it being intermittent, if/when it happens again I’ll call to make an appointment and they will have the car looked at by a Honda “Master Certified Tech”. So I’m fully expecting to have to take it back again, I’m...
Well, add me to this list... car went into limp mode last night. Check Emissions and Rev Match System errors popped up. Was able to limp it back home but struggled to stay running. Sat overnight in my garage. Started up ok this morning, but both warnings still on. Babied it into the dealership...
Good eye... He dialed in at 16.3 and ran a 16.26 so he was much closer at .04 off. While I was .12 off. He was an automatic FX35 so I would imagine that he’s pretty accurate most runs.
Because I put 13.7 down for bracket racing. Fastest I had hit prior was a 13.8. So even though I beat him, he hit his estimated time closer without going faster, while I broke out and lost because I went faster then the time I estimated.
UPDATE: So I returned to the track with all the helpful info I received from my last post here. First run, I dropped to 13.88. Next run I regressed to a 13.95. Third run was the start of bracket racing so I dialed in at 13.7. Run felt great! I broke out and lost, but doesn’t matter to me because...