I used the Noico 80 mil butyl deadener from Amazon and it worked great. Car door went from sounding like a tin can to a deep thud when you tap on outter door skin.
I plan to do the inner door skins with a ccf/mlv combo for noise reduction. Eventually entire car will be done with the above...
Got it figured out. The black wire on the lamp had to match up with the black wire on the car socket. Being that the harness plugs into the bulb socket, it can be placed either way and my lights did not come with any instructions and/or warnings.
Awesome, I appreciate it. My lights didn't come with any instructions or warning labels so I just plugged in however and installed, so this is most likely my issue. I will check them tomorrow.
Thanks again.
Are these the Vland branded? I installed a set this past weekend but it keeps blowing the stop light fuse which will not allow the car to start. I'm trying to diagnose the issue.
Yea, it's blowing the stop the light which does not allow the car to start with the push button, only remote start.
Did they figure out a way around this? I ordered a multi pack of fuses so I plan to install one piece of the light at a time (4 pieces total) to see if I can narrow it down.
I purchased some new LED taillights and now my 17' EX sedan won't start. However, it will start with the remote start, just not the push button start.
I noticed the 10 amp stop light fuse under hood was blown. Replaced and blew again. Replaced with a 15 amp and car fired up, but once shut...
I talked with the president Andy last night and he invited me to come demo his car. Now I just need to decide if I want to spend that much money or not.
How are you liking these tweets josby? What mids did you pair them up with? Active I assume?
Audiofrog is less than 45 min from me and am thinking about giving them a call or stopping by. I have read some great reviews paired up with their GB60 mids.
Let me know your thoughts. I will...
Agreed, more than I was expecting. But, that is divided between mid & tweeter since tweeter in ran in line with the mid. I measured the mid at 4ohms, but was unable to measure the tweeters resistance, so I don't know how much power each individual driver is receiving.
Just measured the HU's power. Being that my cheap multimeter is most accurate from 45-450hz, I chose to create a 400hz test tone recorded at 0db as 400hz shows to be the highest voltage in that range based on graphs previously posted.
Hooked up multimeter to the drivers side speaker wires, set...
Agreed. Would be a perfectly flat signal to send to a DSP for fine tuning. Units like the JL Fix-86 is basically taking the modified signal and changing it to the flat signal like in the above graph.
Pretty sure there is no amp, I forgot to check. I'll check passenger side kick panel this evening if I don't forget again. Your plan would work great... Only thing I would keep an eye on is the amount of power to the speakers via the stock speaker wiring as its only like 22ga.
I also took some more frequency measurements. Since all speakers were disconnected, I just hooked up the laptop using REW to the drivers side wiring that would plug into the mid as it's a full range signal.
The difference shows you what EQ settings Honda has applied to their factory default...
Alright, so today I measured at what volume the HU clips using my SMD distortion detector. Per the instructions, I disconnected all speakers and hooked up the detector to the drivers side mid speaker wire using the supplied cable. Using a 0db test tone, I played both a 40hz & 1khz test tone...
Yes! With my setup, since using the OEM HU, I will route the high level outputs of the HU (speaker wires) to the high level inputs on my dsp. From there, the RCA outputs of the dsp will feed the amps, and then you have the speaker wires going from amps directly to the speakers.