Tomorrow, Monday, Only.
You can have it if you help me take it off and put the stock downpipe back on.
I've got all the tools you'll ever need.
Only until sun-down.
Give me a text at 267-623-7076
Whatever you do, do NOT do straight pipe from turbo back. It is insanely loud and annoying.
I've been wanting to mount my phone to the back of my car, but I don't have any means to do it.
If it could rev up passed 6500 rpm, it'll sound similar to a cross-breed of a crotchrocket and formula 1...
TODAY ONLY !!! until the sun sets.
No after-dark work.
Free PRL catless downpipe.
You've gotta help me take it off and help me put the stock downpipe back on.
In Northeast Philadelphia.
Call me at 267-623-7076
TODAY ONLY !!! until the sun sets.
No after-dark work.
Free PRL catless downpipe.
You've gotta help me take it off and help me put the stock downpipe back on.
In Northeast Philadelphia.
Call me at 267-623-7076
YES !!! You are a life saver. YOU ARE THE MAN !!!
It still looks like this diagram is still missing one more part.
It is listed under (Front Bulkhead - Dashboard).
This is where the "battery tie down hooks" will mount.
Currently, my new oversized battery is too wide to fit and sits precariously...
The big red tube is a zero gauge copper clad aluminum power cable that goes from
this battery terminal to a battery isolator and 2nd battery in the trunk.
Correct. Currently, nothing is holding down the battery, and although it is not ideal,
it isn't going to move or shift from it's current...
My battery crapped out on me, again, on Monday.
I had to use my Lithium Jumper Pack to start the car after work.
I immediately drove straight to Advance Auto Parts and
got the group 35 AGM AutoCraft Platinum or whatever.
Its rated at 650 cold cranking amps, 55 amp hours, and
with a 100 minute...
Yes. I know how to change the TC max pressure ratio table, but
I prefer the low end torque, because this forsaken city has a a traffic control device at every single block (approx. ~1/16 of a mile)
But I feel like after 4800 rpm, the engine falls flat on it's face.
I haven't checked my boost...
OH MAN !!! I came from your meth build thread and when I read the original post, here, my jaw dropped.
When I read "Boost Leak", I was like "THANK GOD" !!!
I doubt Honda opted for T-clamps, so I'll have to check all my clamps, too.
I am currently running the +9 PSI basemap from Hondata.
What I mean is: "Do you think I'm hitting torque limit while using the +9 map? Should I crank up the torque limit?"
@WolfTrax17 :
I'm just curious.
Why would you want to tune the car to run low octane?
If that's the case, why not just leave the car stock.
I'm fairly certain the Civic (except for Si and TypeR) are designed to run on low octane.
It automatically retards when detecting knock from poor fuel...
Wow ... Your car is impressive.
I couldn't stand a chance vs a '15 stock WRX. I couldn't even imagine trying to keep up with an STi.
Honestly, I doubt mine could even deal with a Mustang, Comaro or Charger.
On the freeway, it seems to have great high speed power, but
since I live in a City that...
Yep ... spot on ... BUT ... because there is only two electrodes for the positive and negative, the "TAP" so you call it is fixed.
Instead, you should consider calling the AMPS a different viscosity fluid.
Thicker fluid comes out slower, but Thinner fluid comes out faster.
If you put 90 weight...
Wow ... that is great of you to point out. I figured something was off about the OEM battery sitting in my '17 Civic.
It works "fine" during the warm months, but in Philadelphia, that's only 6 out of 12 months.
The rest of the year is always 60 degrees Fahrenheit or below.
This isn't a fantastic photo, but I thought it might help some people.
The battery on top is the Group 34 and the battery on bottom is the 51r.
I believe, in most cases, the bigger battery will have a higher reserve capacity and better deep cycling abilities.
Think of a cellphone and it's MAh...