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As long as you follow the service manual procedure for either method (OBD Tool or Manual), you shouldn’t have any issues with the rear pads. It’s not hard to do right, but just make sure you know what “right” is first. I’ve done it with the OBD II tool and it was super simple to disengage the...

My tape actually started to fail on the visor-side, so there wasn’t anything I could have done during install. But I agree, I had no problems with them until one started coming loose in one corner.

The HIC USA ones aren’t bad, but after a few years the tape wore out and I replaced mine with the OEM ones.

sorry, I posted that not realizing you had a bit stuck in the screw. That’s gnarly. This might be a job for r/mechanics subreddit 😬

I always thought that if you perform the hard-calibration (3 calibrations in quick succession), then it will take whatever the current pressures are as the new baseline. I also have the door-jamb pressures of 35 and 33 psi, for front and back, respectively, and never had issues with the low...

I’m thinking it’s the small difference in tread height that’s possible between getting new tires or switching wheels with different tires (even with the “same” rolling diameter) that’s enough to set off the low tire pressure light — if it’s not recalibrated.

Any reason why you wouldn’t do Type R rear sway bar only?

Whenever I switch between my steelies and my stockies, I have to do this to appease the TPMS

I may have fixed my “chirp”. I replaced my rear brake pads and rotors last week, as well as re-lubed the brakes, and since then the noise has disappeared.

do you have the newer version with the longer oil drain opening? Here’s mine:

So I was able to get the stripped screw relatively easily with this little kit and my cordless drill, for anyone that runs into the same issue. Thanks for the help everyone :)

I have before, but with shipping the price was about the same as the dealer so I just went to the dealer to get it.

When I bought my new OEM one, I immediately shook it and heard no rattle. It was still in the bag though. When I took it out to install it some days later it rattled though. But I also read that brand-new Honda PCV valves don’t always necessarily rattle (assembly lube maybe?).

Yeah, I was able to get 3 rotors out fine, and then on this last one, I dunno, I got lazy maybe and lost my focus and stripped the hell out of the screw. So I'm just asking the easiest way to get it out of there now that it's toasted. I was also getting away with using a Phillips head on an...

Hey everyone, I've been working on replacing and servicing my front brakes today (and looking like tomorrow too 🙃), and realized that I was pretty confused about the shims. I wanted to double check something before wrapping up the job. Here are my thoughts: When I did the rear pads, the...

While we're here - How does one drill out a stripped rotor screw (asking for a friend... and that friend is myself)? I'm being cautious as I've never had to do this before, but I understand the idea of just drilling into it with a smaller diameter bit until the screw disintegrates, but is there...

the longer hex socket is a great idea!

If it’s been close to 30k miles since last done, you might as well drain and fill with fresh fluid. Just need to get some Hondabond to seal the filler bolt, and new crush washers to seal the drain and check bolts. I have a DIY guide to this task in my signature, btw.

I just replaced mine in my sport hatch yesterday and the old one wasn’t rattling anymore. I’m at 68k miles, so replace yours sooner if you can. And… Easy as changing the air filter!

I like the Chevron Techron 12oz bottles as I can just pour the whole thing in the tank straight from the bottle, no funnel needed. Follow bottle directions, but when my gas is near empty ,I do it at the gas station right before I fill up (confirm the pump works before doing this, ask me how I...