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Yes you can go back and forth between any maps you have loaded as often as you want with just a couple of steering wheel button pushes.

You can adjust idles, by temperatures even, with a K-Tuner also.

Outside temperature dependent. At a bit above freezing, 1100 rpm is normal. You'll see different numbers at -35°C like I do!

A quart every 6000 km is a bit high, but not dramatically so. If it were mine, I'd just drive it and keep a close eye on it see if it gets worse.

That's not the whole issue though. While wheel studs can be replaced, the real question is - why is it spinning in the hub? As I said, either the splines on the hub, or on the stud, or both are stripped. If in the hub, then a new stud will continue to rotate even with pressed into in place...

Just put an aftermarket valve stem (or in-wheel even) TPMS on it. That will meet the requirement. You can toss it later if you don't like/want it.

Yes, there is a "F-BUS" and a "B-BUS". Both of them use the CAN protocol. Both of them communicate with the audio head unit. The gauge cluster acts as the master gateway. Section 41 of the service manual describes them in a bit of detail.

The stud is just a press in, so the fact that it now spins means either the splines on the stud or of the hub are stripped. (Or both.) Unfortunately the only answer is that the hub has to come off to facilitate the repair. If you don’t have the tools to pull the hub you will have to get the car...

How much over what distance? BTW, stationary idling is always bad for any engine. Modern-day cars do not need to, "warm up". Only people do. Get in, start it, put your seat belt, on and gently drive away. That's all the time that is needed.

Leave it as is. It's no big deal. If you pound on it you're more likely to create a water leak. (But check under the carpet now to be sure there isn't one around it already.)

It's an all electric steering assist system. So yes, it can easily be effected by low battery voltage during cranking.

What A/F ratio does the car typically show on your tuner?

Sure, lots of people have. A typical reason is the battery is on its last leg. How old is your battery? But that’s just a guess. The correct full answer is to pull, or have some pull the DTCs.

You could check with AEM, but I'd be surprised if it would. The engine compartment layout of the 11 gens is noticeably different that the 10 gens.

Honestly it makes little difference. Any high quality silicone gasket maker will work. There is nothing special about this valve cover than any of the other millions of them. BTW, the only dumb question is an un-asked question. It’s how we all learn.

First off, this would be better asked in its own thread as it is off-topic of this thread. That being said, what are the stored body DTCs? (Note - not all low cost ODB II scanners will read the Honda body codes data set. Be sure one is used that will.)

Keep us posted!

"CAN BUS" is just the communications protocol used on one or more data links in most vehicles. (There are two on these cars, the B-BUS and F-BUS.) Sort of like TCP/IP is in the internet world. Reading the data traffic on these buses is the easy part. There are a lot of commercial packet...

It's just a version number. Performance, features, etc. are identical.

Okay, the minute someone uses the word “woke” to criticize someone just trying to be respectful of professionals – I’m out. Good luck fixing your problem.