I haven’t run into any issues running the track version on the street even in 95F ambient temps. The car cools down much more rapidly compared to stock. ECT 2 temps haven’t gone past 185 for me.
Email Cory at [email protected] and drop my name, Michael Wiellett
Yes you can definitely tuck the wheel now with both camber adjustments. I kept both. The SPC is stronger and has less flex compared to stock. Initial impressions of the RV6 arms and rear sway are really good. Turn in feels so good and the car feels much more planted
Look at my above post. Take it to a detailer to determine if it’s a surface contaminant or something below the clear.
If it’s below the clear I would have it taken to a trust body shop that can paint match well. I wouldn’t have them blend into the doors though
Ive ran PMU CR Front and Rear before, they’re a good intermediate pad but they wore out quickly. I actually wore out all of the pad material at laguna and almost had catastrophic failure going into T2. Not the pads fault as I was pushing it past their limit. They lasted me some street miles and...
Titan 7s seem to be the go-to forged track day beater wheel.
For lapping I recommend Hankook RS4
For fastest lap times I recommend Yoko A052 for 200TW
Anything past that you’re looking at Hoosiers or something similar
Wow the OP truly doesn’t know jack about these cars.
I am thrice now telling you it’s a rock between your dust shield and rotor. If your pads were constantly dragging you would see more pad material on the rotor and it would turn blue. The brakes grabbing on the incline is the hill assist...
Yup just look at class rules. The stock intake is actually pretty efficient as it is. You won’t gain much from a full intake. Most people just drop in a K&N and call it a day. My focus would be on brakes, tires, and cooling
Do you plan to track the car seriously at all?
If it’s a daily driver and you’re looking for a tiny boost in power, I would do the following
1. HKS Legamax Exhaust
2. KTuner with the Stage 1 tune
3. PRL HVI
4. Radium Oil Catch Can PCV side
5. PWR street radiator
6. PWR/HKS/USR/GReddy oil...
I still find my HKS to be adequate on street even in 90F+ temps. I’m usually seeing charge temps of around 10-20F above ambient. Another thing to pay attention to is the flow and pressure. IAT is important but not the entire equation.
If you plan to track the car I would recommend against the PRL and going with a PWR, HKS, or GReddy IC because they’re tube and fin. They’re able to dissipate heat faster and they flow more air through to the radiator. Once the PRL gets heat soaked you’re pretty much toast. The advantage though...