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Stock wheels always were crap. No argument there. Coilovers will always be better then lowering springs. Who has 80k miles on the lowering springs to tell us? No one. And I meant no offense, I wish I had half the money the type r owners on here had... definitely humble just the issue here has...

No offense but the "purists" would probably run a real suspension setup with coilovers. Not blow the shit out of oem struts. But lowering has nothing to do with the feeling of the car should feel the same with the new wheels as stock if the right temps and pressures.

They are fast enough. May or may not have been tried. But I did pull over and wait for him a few miles down the road... then the other 3 pulled up asking if he was okay. Lol and now to buy this episode...

Brake pads you can do just I recommend the autel thing for maintenance mode. I ran bf Goodrich sport comp 2 for 20k and I ran them hard then got new wheels that I've only put 1000 miles on. I still have the bf tires on the old rims just some camber wear bust still good. I'm not very consistent...

But also go out and drive at those pressures and see how they feel. I tend to run 26 and 25 psi in the summer. Just cold season I go up a bit. You will have to recalibrate the tpms after any change.

Around 31 psi front 29 rear for your size based on this. https://tiresize.com/pressure-calculator/

Tires, brakes, oil changes. Just like any car but more often and cost a little more. Oil should be more like 7500 miles to maintain warranty but I tuned early and lost warranty so I've done every 10k on amsoil. I'm at 41k miles and still haven't done brake pads yet but due soon in the rear...

Here for the replies, I'd like to run 275/35/18 but 9.5 wide rims and +38 offset so I'm not sure.

255/40 would have been closer to stock diameter to keep speedo right (what I'm running) Did you correct tire pressures for the size change? I'm at 28psi front 27 rear.

My personal opinion is people just watch the news too much. Heck the last year watching the news made me hate certain groups of people so I got off social media and the news stations. Back to normal feelings but I'd really appreciate if the local Japanese restaurant would open for dine in finally.

It only adds like 5 decibels of noise.

Why not turn the engine by hand from like the accessory belt pulley? Idk tho haven't done it on this car yet.

I agree tho. No hate here I've mainly had Honda's so that's all I really know. But I'm 25 so should be plenty of time to experience other makes. After this R is paid off I'll probably be getting a Hyundai. Besides I feel like the R can get me into trouble too fast. Lol

Only 2 reasons I would buy the N. Warranty and never mod it. No markup. Bought the R to mod on a super reliable engine and trust issues with hyundai personally.

Probably the fact your chasing stuff that's not good on a turbo platform.

First thing I would do is linkage bushings and cable lock down. Second would be fluid change to amsoil or other similar brand. Third would be delay valve delete because the clutch feels slow to engage/disengage.

Then you would want it to read like it is to not get a ticket. Or we can talk about tire pressure, tread depth and wind error that will change your speed. And cause tickets if the manufacturer made it accurate to stock tires and no margin for error.

Just drive around bouncing off the rev limiter , plenty of crackles and pops. Plus same end result as a crackle tune just faster. Lol

Alot of people have done this. Its not the master cylinder tho. The clutch delay valve is inside the slave cylinder.

Cap would help for sure. On my si I had led headlights and never noticed any dimming with 500 watt sub. But I never tested with the stock halogens