fatherpain
Senior Member
- First Name
- Tom
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2018
- Threads
- 27
- Messages
- 2,205
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- 3,799
- Location
- SoCal
- Website
- www.civicx.com
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
- Build Thread
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- 1
- Thread starter
- #526
Have some reservations about proceeding, however.. Car handles fantastic in stock form and don’t know what the effect of suspension mods will be. Never have had a coilovers or a lowered car for that matter.
Messing with the OEM suspension...Especially one dialed in like the Type R, seems to have potential to become another “one mod too many” horror story
Was apprehensive about tackling the JRZ coilover mod, as have never installed a set of coilovers before... but then again, what the hell... why stop now? Have never have done any of this stuff before the Type R and have been ok so far (with patience and some much appreciated help along the way, of course) ?
Was having difficulty understanding the JRZ instructions, as either:
- It’s vaguely worded (to me)
- Or intended for experienced installers (not me)
- I’m a simp (bingo!)
Going through the motions of installing the JRZ coilovers, however not 100% sure if will proceed at this moment or hold off and wait.
Measured the OEM left and right front wheel center to fender height = 14 inches
The OEM left and right rear wheel center to fender height also was 14 inches.
Additional reasons for hesitation:
- Need a nitrogen tank and this gauge/filler tool to refill the remote reservoirs. This tool would ship from the Netherlands, so might take awhile to arrive.
- A couple track buddies are wanting to do 10/11/20 Big Willow and 10/31/20 Streets of Willow...Which drastically cuts my window to perform this mod.
- Learned JRZ coilovers need to be removed and serviced by a JRZ authorized service center every (6) track events or 12k miles. Guessing this would be around $500 + shipping to and from, if there isn’t a center within driving distance. This means in addition to the high price tag, they will also be expensive to maintain annually ?
- A track buddy suggests staying on the stock suspension for now and work on my driving skills as I’m nowhere close to hitting the current limits of the car and likely don’t have the track experience to fully appreciate the benefit of running the JRZs.
- Still researching what is entirely involved in the install and making preparations so it will go as smoothly as possible.
JRZ coilovers front and rear with extended remote reservoirs and quick disconnects. Spring rate is 600F and 650R
A buddy fabricated (2) of these nifty aluminum L brackets, that attach to Rennscot remote reservoir mounts.
These brackets will eventually be welded to the J’s Racing aluminum tower brace in the engine bay and secure the front JRZ coilover remote reservoir canisters.
Removed the wheels and raised the car. Regardless of whether the coils go on now or not, still need the wheels off to check brake rotors and pads. The downside of having nice wheel lugs, is need to remove them and install manually so not to mar the finish. No impact gun to make it quick and easy. After removing the wheels, I was basically done for the night.
Checked the thickness of the Gyrodisc front rotors which have seen approximately 20k miles and (5) track days. Plenty left at 31.95mm. The range is 32mm (new) to 30mm (replace). Additionally, the cooling vanes are also a telltale. When they are gone, it’s time for a new set of $600 rings. Fortunately it doesn’t look like that will be for a long time, unless switch to a more aggressive track pad. Really like the Gyrodisc SS street pads so doubtful will make the switch unless go all out for track use. The purple hat is reuseable.
Rear original stock rotors measured 10.57mm. The Range is 11mm (new) to 9mm (replace) this is after 37k miles. I drive with VSA OFF.
SoCal has cooled down significantly from the heatwave we experienced a couple weeks back. The ash from the wildfires also has gone away, so going to take advantage of the nice weather and work on the car outdoors.
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