Do you ever feel it's a waste to build your Si?

vieux georges

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To boostedDreams,
To get 300 whp, you have to change your turbo (expensive )
and run on ethanol.
We don't have any, here, the best is octane 94.
In july 2018, I had my SI tuned on a Mustang dyno , in Montreal.
It was very hot, around 30 C or 88F outside, more in the
workshop : we read 237 whp and 326 wtq despite the hot air.
I was on the original clutch which held up for several thousands
kilometers afterwards.
I changed it a few months later and I was surprised that it was
not really damaged. It could have lasted a long time, according
to the mechanic.
In my opinion, the bending connecting rods are often due to
over-revving, too high turbo pressures, the use of ethanol
mixture above 30 % and , sometimes, abuse.
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Scarlet

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To boostedDreams,
To get 300 whp, you have to change your turbo (expensive )
and run on ethanol.
We don't have any, here, the best is octane 94.
In july 2018, I had my SI tuned on a Mustang dyno , in Montreal.
It was very hot, around 30 C or 88F outside, more in the
workshop : we read 237 whp and 326 wtq despite the hot air.
I was on the original clutch which held up for several thousands
kilometers afterwards.
I changed it a few months later and I was surprised that it was
not really damaged. It could have lasted a long time, according
to the mechanic.
In my opinion, the bending connecting rods are often due to
over-revving, too high turbo pressures, the use of ethanol
mixture above 30 % and , sometimes, abuse.
Partially true but partially misleading as well.. The main thing that is bending these rods is too much low end torque, which can be achieved in various ways.
 

Seth_FC3

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To boostedDreams,
To get 300 whp, you have to change your turbo (expensive )
and run on ethanol.
We don't have any, here, the best is octane 94.
In july 2018, I had my SI tuned on a Mustang dyno , in Montreal.
It was very hot, around 30 C or 88F outside, more in the
workshop : we read 237 whp and 326 wtq despite the hot air.
I was on the original clutch which held up for several thousands
kilometers afterwards.
I changed it a few months later and I was surprised that it was
not really damaged. It could have lasted a long time, according
to the mechanic.
In my opinion, the bending connecting rods are often due to
over-revving, too high turbo pressures, the use of ethanol
mixture above 30 % and , sometimes, abuse.
What mods did you have at the time when you dyno tuned?.. And I don't believe the ethanol has a huge play in it if its over 30%. I think its more in the range of 50% or more. I've used 40-45% and the cars been good. But granted, I don's use ethanol all the time nor do I abuse my car lol
 

Seth_FC3

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Partially true but partially misleading as well.. The main thing that is bending these rods is too much low end torque, which can be achieved in various ways.
I agree with this. All my hardcore trq comes in after 3k rpms
 

Scarlet

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What mods did you have at the time when you dyno tuned?.. And I don't believe the ethanol has a huge play in it if its over 30%. I think its more in the range of 50% or more. I've used 40-45% and the cars been good. But granted, I don's use ethanol all the time nor do I abuse my car lol
I'm tuned already, hitting dyno tomorrow, mods listed in garage! It isn't that we can't run that much ethanol, it's that the stock fuel system cannot handle running much more then a 30-35% mix or so.

I'm tuned to 30% and out of fuel with my setup currently.
 


letsgoMINAJE

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List of mods I believe have been updated on my garage profile if you want to check it out. More pics on Insta, will upload dyno sheet there tomorrow, follow @ shawn_stephen_84
Crazy build! Now I am really curious to see what it puts out. Have you dyno'd prior? If so, what did you put out and what have you changed since?
 

Scarlet

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Crazy build! Now I am really curious to see what it puts out. Have you dyno'd prior? If so, what did you put out and what have you changed since?
Never ever had it on a dyno before. Needless to say, I'm excited haha!
 

RehabJP

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As I mentioned above, I wanted the Si , I was the first
to get it in Saint Jerome and I paid cash.
I could have gotten the CTR and paid cash for it.
If I have bought the CTR, I would also modified the car.
I always liked to modify the cars.
Two years ago, we gave the original ECU for a visit
to the dealer; it's incredible, I felt like driving a Toyota Celica !
Everyone is free to modify or not but, for me, it's
like a necessity.
If you can, try an SI that has 40 or 50 WHP and 120 or 130 WTQ more
and you will see the difference and the pleasure.
Im with you I love to tinker and tune and if you buy a brand spanking new car and mess with it some dealerships do not care as much if you tune and modify as far as warranty but they can see if you flash and then reflash the ECU when they hook it up to the factory scanner the ECU memory stores date and time any time the ECU is flashed that is what has me weary about doing a tune. If I blow a piston rod or valve or anything in the engine really they could deny the claim and say I had the car tuned beyond factory spec and that is why the engine was damaged. If I still have this car when the warranty runs out yea I will put every dame thing I can get my hands on to make it go faster and preformed better but seeing as I have 100K bumper to bumper I will have probably moved on by then but I am a tinkerer myself so I am gonna do some minor stuff to improve the experience with out compromising my warranty.

Its up to your level of risk tolerance though I guess. I would love to buy an old beater Honda that is stock and do a sleeper build on it. Engine swap, tune, new exhaust, the works. That would be fun.
 

ebatr24

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Reasons why buying a Type R sucks compared to modding an Si:

-5x120 wheel selection sucks and so does the used market. Enjoy paying high prices for "Type R spec'd" wheels
-$2800 to get the Hondata fuel system upgrade if you want to up the capability of making more than 370-400whp with not much room to make a lot more beyond that.
-Cost of aftermarket and OEM parts substantially higher. (imagine the cost of replacing a blown k20c1 motor vs an L15b7)
-4 seats vs 5 seats in the coupe and sedan even thought he coupe is going away
-higher maintenance cost-Pads, Rotors, Oil, etc....
-creature comforts, heated seats, mirrors, sun roof, etc...

Don't get me wrong yall I love my R, but it is not as simple as "jUsT gO BuY a TyPe R" when you're comparing modding your Si vs upgrade to an R. Some R owners have deeper pockets, but I am a lot more scared to blow the motor or trans in the R than I was for the Si. When I got the R I had to immediately get wheels because these rubber band tires are known to debead on rough roads and the wheels are known to bend easily due to the tires. I am already dreading having to replace my rotors when the time comes, buying an extra quart of oil every change is annoying on top of a 5 quart jug. The Si went 10 seconds in the quarter mile long before the R ever did, so in terms of straight line speed it is not as silly as it seems to mod an Si over buying an R. That being said the Type R rocks, speed you can hold on a twisty road is insane, it gets a ton of attention, and it has so much usable space making it a great daily.
 


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MoaRPowah

MoaRPowah

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I hear a lot about modding and daily driving a Type R or racking up mileage. I know Evo and Sti owners who don't mind daily driving theirs and beating on it. I guess it shows how special a Type R is compared to the others in it's class.

I guess that's what makes the Si good in the sense that you can build it and still daily drive it and have fun and not worry so much.
 

BoostedDreams

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Beautiful thing about the R is you can put down close to 350WHP, with just a tune, and reliably. You can push it to 410-420 with a meth kit on the stock fuel system.
To achieve that on an si you’d need to swap the turbo, clutch, all the boltons, custom tune, e85 etc, and that is really pushing the limits on a stock block.
These are two very different cars and unique in their own way. Obviously the si is the better daily, but the R is much more satisfying to drive fast.
 

Seth_FC3

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I'm tuned already, hitting dyno tomorrow, mods listed in garage! It isn't that we can't run that much ethanol, it's that the stock fuel system cannot handle running much more then a 30-35% mix or so.

I'm tuned to 30% and out of fuel with my setup currently.
Interesting. I haven't had any issues arise but I'll take not and dial it back a bit. I don't fill up on ethanol too much anymore, I do it like once a month just so I can get some more spice from the car lol
 

turbociv910

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The Si has things the Type R doesn’t. Also, the way the Si turbo has more grunt down low compared to the mid-high range grunt of the CTR turbo means tuning an Si will provide more scoot around town while tuning the Type R will give you a lot more power at much more illegal speeds.
I think my ctr has more power all around (stock vs stock)
 

ManitobaSI

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Originally I was happy with my decision to get the Si. The reason is if I had gotten a type r I would have modified it anyways. Modifying cars is fun. But likely I will end up getting a type r in the future thereby having spent a ton of money on Si aftermarket parts that I could have used towards the type r. Oh well, we will see what happens. Either way both are great cars and no decision is a bad one, to each their own!
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