Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

[fatherpain]

Hi Sam3, yes modding the fuel system certainly has potential for serious safety issues, if not done right. Hopefully this walkthrough will address the potential gotchas in detail and always try to include my best maintenance practices. I've worked in power plant mechanical repair for 29 years as a mechanic and supervisor. Only experience working on cars has been tinkering with the Type R. At work, I'm no longer allowed to touch tools, due to my position. So it's always fun to get under the hood, wrench and figure things out.

Having successfully gone through the process, it seems there are (5) critical areas to be mindful of:

• Torque the HPFP to the correct specs - 11 ft/lbs for base. 12 ft/lbs for the pump.
• Make sure the intake manifold is pulled to properly tighten the rear HP fuel line fitting. It needs to be tight
• Make sure the HP fuel line entering the pump is slightly adjusted (bent) to make sure it lines up and seats properly. Don’t want the male insert and female seat cocked in any way.
• Modify the plastic safety clip that protects the LP fuel connection, so it can go back on. Honda put it there for a reason.
• The HP fuel fittings are stainless steel, which have a tendency to gall if applied dry or cross- threaded. So lube applied before engaging and it needs to go on straight. This mod calls for 0-20W engine oil.

Don't know the details of what happened to Ipeefreely, but do recall seeing the bad news. Speculating, I'd wager the failure was due to either:

• The LP fuel line somehow came undone if the OEM plastic safety clip was not modded and put back on.
• The HP fuel line under the intake manifold wasn't fully tightened, if the shop didn't take time to pull the manifold.
• The HP fuel line failed at the fitting to the pump due to a stress crack or misalignment.

Talking to XDI, it sounds like the first batches had more offset at the pump's HP fuel fitting, so more bending was required. There could have introduced added stress or misalignment…. Or perhaps the shop cut corners and made a mistake. Speed is $$$ for those guys.. whereas a hobbyist such as myself has the luxury of taking a break when an issue arises, analyzing it then resuming when I want to. Plus it’s my own car, so have a vested interest dunno.

Later versions of the XDI pump were adjusted to minimize the offset and XDI says it they fit now. These revised versions can be identified by contacting XDI with the serial number and also the LP fitting atop the pump will be a 90 degree elbow. Believe this was a newer pump as it lined up pretty well and only needed minor adjustment. The part of the install I most worried about was a piece of cake.

As far as I know, XDI and Hondata are the only HPFP upgrades available for the FK8. That said, haven’t kept up to know whether there are new offerings.

Personally opted for the XDI pump over the Hondata option as it’s cheaper (about $1500) and my car is Motec tuned.

The reason for upgrading the HPFP was Motec failsafes would cut the engine under WOT even though the car is conservatively track tuned @366HP/361 Torque. As a result, the tune had to be scaled down some. This should allow a return to full power.

Investigated upgrading the injectors while the manifold was out, being the ideal time to do it. But Salasko Racing said the issue the car was having was due to a lack of pressure not flow. The car is stock turbo and motor and not planning to chase big power, so an injector upgrade or switch to port is not needed.

From experience messing around with our son’s RC cars, adding power inevitably led to other parts wearing out prematurely, which meant upgrades then something else would fail. Have already spent way more than I’d ever envisioned with this build, so don’t need another rabbit hole to chase. Plus we are in California after all.

Only highly competent and mechanically skilled folks should attempt.. When I consider fuel system upgrades, I remember ipeefreely and how his car catching fire was the straw that broke the camel's back.

In addition to the excellent step by step instructions, it would be nice to write an introduction about what are the available options, why did you choose this option versus others, and what are the next steps? For example, how does this compare to the Hondata FK8 fuel system. Are you planning to upgrade the injectors, and why?

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[Sam3]

Thank you for the insightful answer. I may eventually upgrade the fuel system, and these instructions and takeaways are invaluable. I recall reading that some purchased the Hondata fuel system and ended up replacing the pumps with XDI.

For track duty, power above 400 will ultimately lead to changing the clutch, rebuild the gears, and may be rebuild the motor. Will also add a lot stresses on axles and wheel bearings, etc.

 

[fatherpain]

Anytime. XDI reviewed this write up and will to use it for their official FK8 instructions, with (1) correction:

Do not unbolt and rotate the female electrical connector on the XDI to plug in the male plug then rotate back, like I did. Doing so will void the 1 year warranty. No worries here though. I probably only have about (1) month left since it’s been sitting on the shelf so long and it was confirmed to work.

The correct solution is to simply remove this bolt and push the plastic to the right then the plug will fit. Like duh! So simple, it never crossed my mind! Bonk!

Will make a correction to that post in a little bit.

Good news is will be connecting with Salasko Racing tomorrow morning to update the E-tune. Ben Salasko says in addition to achieving its full power, there will also be gains in the midrange response.

Thank you for the insightful answer. I may eventually upgrade the fuel system, and these instructions and takeaways are invaluable. I recall reading that some purchased the Hondata fuel system and ended up replacing the pumps with XDI.

For track duty, power above 400 will ultimately lead to changing the clutch, rebuild the gears, and may be rebuild the motor. Will also add a lot stresses on axles and wheel bearings, etc.

 

[fatherpain]

Ok continuing with the HP fuel line mod. As discussed, the way to access where the line connects to the fuel rail is going to be removing the intake manifold, marked by the blue X. Sheesh! Look at it down there. There’s a lot of stuff in the way!

No worries, it’s worse than it looks. Reaching the manifold just takes a little patience and was pretty easy actually.

It involves

• removing some vacuum lines
• cutting (2) plastic tie downs
• unplugging a couple electrical connectors
• Disconnecting the LP fuel fitting at the HPFP and moving that hose and another aside.
• Disconnecting a hose from the PCV oil catch can if you have one.
• Undoing some brackets
• Remove air bypass valve control solenoid
• Removing a line

Once the manifold is fully exposed it will come off by:

• Removing batttery trays
• Removing the inlet pipe assembly
• Unbolting the throttle body
• Undoing the bottom nut on the manifold support bracket
• Removing (5) nuts and bolts that secure the manifold to the engine block.

Then the HP fuel line can come out to be drilled. Whew that’s a lot to process, right? Just keep plugging away and take a lot of pictures, to help when it’s time to go back together.

Will do my best to show everything that is involved. A lot of work, but gotta say the payoff is worth the effort. Salasko Racing cranked up the car’s throttle settings and it’s a completely different animal with the OEM fuel limitations removed. Game changer!

 

[fatherpain]

The circled bolts need to come out. The arrow points to another bolt underneath a hose. The vacuum lines with arrows need to be separated. The stainless line with yellow x’s will be removed completely.

Remove this bracket.

undo the bolt that secures the support that holds these hoses. A universal socket and extension are needed.

Release the plastic clip then separate both hoses from the bracket and set it aside. The hoses will be pushed out of the way when time to pull the manifold

Separate the hose at this junction only. The other branch can remain intact.

Some hoses really stubborn to come off. This is the method I like to use. Insert a small flat screwdriver or pick and work around to break the seal.

Then spray a little Kroil or WD40 where the tool is inserted.

And the hose can be pulled off.

Undo this electrical plug.

The vacuum tee upper right is the vacuum line running to the Sequence if have one. There is an electrical plug under light gray cover on the right and the green zip tie needs to be cut.

Cut zip ties for all electrical lines secured to the manifold, but leave the bases.

Like this. The bases can be reused if run a new zip tie through it.

Pull this electrical connector from the purge air valve solenoid.

And this electrical connector.

Undo this hose from the PCV oil catch can (if have one) to the manifold. Otherwise whatever hose is attached.

This is filter associated with the HKS BOV. Separate the vacuum from it or follow to where the hose attaches to the manifold, if no junction present.

 

[fatherpain]

Ok recapping we are now here. Still getting access to the intake manifold.

Separate the small vacuum hose. Remove this bolt and move the air bypass valve control solenoid out of the way.

Clip the green zip tie like the previous one and leave the base for reuse. The black clip securing the stainless tube needs to be released.

A needle nose with angled prongs work well to release it.

Separate this vacuum hose.

Like this.

Undo the tab securing the stainless tube.

Make sure the other end is separated then remove and set aside.

Undo this vacuum hose. I have this convenient tee because of the Sequence valved exhaust. For most, the hose will need to be undone at the bottom right.

Hey now we are getting somewhere!

 

[fatherpain]

Separate this vacuum hose also.

The LP fuel line at the HPFP needs to off to move the entire fuel hose out of the way so the intake manifold can make it past. This is the reason not to make the the final connection with the modded safety retainer and electrical tape, if modding the HP fuel line. Trust me. Youre gonna want to mod the line for maximum performance.

The LP fuel hose plastic retaining clips for a bit of a puzzle. My nephew, the Honda tech tried explaining how to take it apart over the phone, which involves using two flat screwdrivers. However, I was unable to figure it out and did not want to break one trying. No worries, the job can be done without doing so. If need to slide the fuel hose for any reason, simply spray some Kroil or WD-40 onto the hose and it will slide easily.

The workaround is to remove these three bolts.

And lift the bracket away from the manifold with the fuel line attached.

Up and out of the way, like this. The top of the top of the intake manifold should now be clear of all obstructions.

Disconnect this sensor from the intake pipe.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp that secures the intake pipe to the throttlebody.

Loosen the hose clamp that secures the intake pipe to the intercooler piping and remove.

 

[fatherpain]

Next the throttle body needs to be disconnected from the intake manifold. There are four bolts to remove. The size is 12mm.

It takes a little effort to break loose, so Use a longer ratchet or breaker bar.

Remove the bolts. The throttle body will remain in place.

On the manifold side of the throttlebody, remove these two flange backing nuts. And they are seated in slots and will lift right out. If left in place, they may fall off when the manifold is lifted out.

Clear access to the intake manifold Once everything has been moved out of the way.

View from underneath: there is a bracket that connects the intake manifold to the engine block that needs to be undone. Don’t bother removing the nut at the red arrow. The stud that is there will not permit the manifold from coming out. Instead remove the lower bracket bolt, which is not visible.

Reach down and use a hand mirror to help locate the bolt. It is approximately where the tip of the arrow is, behind the electrical connector.

Use a ratchet, short extension and 12mm socket to remove the bolts that secures the bracket. Notice the hand mirror is kept in place with loops of zip ties that run through the handle and attached to the car.

Here is the manifold bracket removed because I didn’t know at the time. It is Easier to leave the bracket attached to the manifold And only remove the lower bolt that is next to my thumb.

Lastly, there are three balls and two nuts that are staggered along the top of the manifold that attach it to the engine block.

Remove with a ratchet short extension and 12 mm socket. Ones out the manifold will be ready to pull.

Pry the intake manifold away from the engine block. Be careful not to have anything loose that could possibly fall and enter the engine.

Carefully finesse the manifold up through the opening. It may get snagged on hoses coming out. Lift slowly and watch for any hangups.

Intake manifold successfully removed! Woohoo!

 

[fatherpain]

With the intake manifold removed, can see the throttle body (top), HP fuel fitting to be undone (top right) and fuel rail exposed. For big power builds, now would be the time to upgrade injectors or switch to port. Not planning to go down that path, so this is the end of the road so to speak for me. Please slap me if I'm doing this again in a couple years.

Didn't do this Immediately, but it's always good practice to plug any openings, hoses, etc with paper towels to prevent entrance of foreign objects or dirt. Did this for everything that was disconnected.

Now there is plenty of space to see what you’re actually doing, put a wrench on the HP fuel fitting and turn it. Lift up on the wrench to undo the fitting.

Fitting undone at the fuel rail. HP fuel line ready to be removed for modification.

Despite being free, the HP fuel line Still gets bound up and won’t simply pull out even if you twist it.

No worries, this is easily remedied by removing the purge air solenoid. Start by undoing its electrical connector.

Use a 10mm to break loose the bolt that secures it.

And remove.

With the purge air solenoid loose, pull it away to unbind the HP fuel line. Found out later trying to put it back, the base needs to be trimmed to fit, so can remove the vacuum lines and set it aside to be adjusted later.

Carefully fish the HP fuel line out, while twisting it when needed. The extra space should allow it to come out pretty easily now,

Finally, after all that work, here is the HP fuel line removed ready to modify. This involves drilling out the one end that connects to the fuel rail to 5/64". This will allow more fuel flow to maximize the benefit of adding the XDI HPFP. And gotta say, after experiencing the difference in the car's performance.... Believe it was totally worth the extra effort.

Note the bracket middle bracket will no longer be used. Once the HP line is properly lined up and connected to the XDI the bolt hole will be way off. Can remove or leave it on. I left on, in the unlikely event the care is ever returned to stock. Don't see that happening, though.

 

[fatherpain]

Here is the OEM HP line opening where it connects to the fuel rail. This is the only end that needs drilling. The opening where it connects to the HPFP is much larger and does not need modification. Best practice would be to secure the line in a vice while drilling. But I used vice grips and a rag, just like Zach Herder demonstrated in his YouTube video. You will need a drill and 1/16", 5/64" and 1/2" (or similar) drill bit.

Apply a lubricant to the drill bit to keep it cool so the flutes stay sharp and cut. Rapid tap works great. However, kroil or WD40 will work as well.

Enlarge the hole starting with a 1/16" drill bit. Then follow up with the 5/64". Be sure to apply more lube as you go. Drill at a relative slow speed with as much pressure you can apply without the drill bit snapping. Keep applying cutting oil as you go. Stainless hardens when it gets hot, so avoid high speed and keep the bit as cool as possible. The depth needed to drill to punch through is very small.

Use a 1/2" drill bit to bevel the end a little. It is preferred to have a smooth transition, rather than a sharp edge. This is perfect.

Once drilling is complete, spray contact or brake cleaner through the line from the end that connects to the HPFP. The opening is larger and can accept a straw hose. Place a rag at the other end to catch debris. Follow up by blowing compressed air through if have an air nozzle. Otherwise use something like a Dust-it air can. Make sure No chips or debris is left inside to foul the injectors when reinstalled.

HP fuel line modded and opened up to 5/64" at the fuel rail end. Ready to reinstall.

 

[fatherpain]

Feed the HP line back in starting at the pump. Spray contact or brake cleaner to make sure the area is clean.

Line up the HP fuel line to the fitting on the HPFP. Do not make and tighten this connection just yet. The HP fuel line connection at the fuel rail is more critical to nail down first. A fuel leak here would not be difficult to fix. However, a leak at the fuel rail would be catastrophic and would require pulling everything off again to access.

Insert the modded end to the fuel rail and verify it is lined up straight and true. It is critical the sealing faces mate perfectly. Apply engine oil to the threads to ensure the stainless steel and carefully take the fitting up by hand until tight. The fitting should turn smoothly. If it does not stop back it out and make sure it’s not getting cross threaded.

Check the other end of the fuel line at the pump to make sure it is still aligned or at least in the ballpark. Adjust if needed. Then press down to tighten the HP fuel fitting as much as you can. Has to be tight.

HP fuel fitting at the fuel rail complete!

At the pump end, if the HP fuel line springs a little due to tightening the fuel rail connection, gently press it back in place. The open end of a wrench works well or can finesse it in. Be careful not to damage the threads.

The sealing faces lined up pretty well from the get go, but wanted it perfect, so used a large channel lock to bend and adjust the line a little, to make it perfect. It didn’t take much.

Very happy with this fitment. Looks perfect.

Apply engine oil to the threads.

Thread fitting on by hand.

Then tighten hard with a wrench. Want it Guttentite - just like at the fuel rail, but not so much that it strips out. Once the fitting stops under tight pressure, thats it.

The purge air solenoid base will hit the HP fuel line and require trimming, because the XDI HPFP is taller than OEM.

Use a small air grinder to Dremel to remove some base material, then it will clear again.

Just like this. Reconnect the electrical.

HP fuel line modification complete!

Proper reinstallation of the HP fuel line, the XDI HPFP itself and the LP fuel fitting are all critical. Don’t want any fuel leaks leading to a fire, serious injury or destruction of your car.

 

[fatherpain]

Will touch on some things, but won’t retrace all steps to put everything back. All that’s needed is to reverse the steps that brought us here. Hopefully, you’ve taken lots of pictures and sorted various bolts into labeled Ziploc bags to keep things organized.

Clean the surface of the throttlebody using a rag and contact cleaner..

Do the same for the intake manifold. Make sure to remove all rags used to block the entrance of dirt.

Sealing surfaces should be clean like this.

Wipe down the manifold itself.

The rubber gaskets were in pretty good shape and probably could’ve been reused if needed. However, it is always best practice to go back with new, so why take a chance?

The throttle body takes (1) 17107-R40-A01.

The intake manifold uses (4) 17115-5A2-A01.

Condition the new gaskets with a small amount of oil before installing to keep them pliable.

Here is a good look at the manifold support bracket and the throttle body backing flange nuts.

Be sure to reinstall the bracket bolt. It requires doing the reach around, but isn’t quite as extreme as trying to connect the fuel rail. Use a hand mirror to help see what you are doing and be patient.


Wait to install the backing flanges until the manifold is back in place, otherwise they will fall off. There are slots they sit in, molded to the manifold.

Make sure to modify the OEM LP fuel safety retraining clip.

Reinstall and electrical tape in place when making the final connection at the XDI HPFP as fully detailed here.

This will eliminate any possibility of the LP fuel connection coming undone in any circumstances.

 

[fatherpain]

Once the car is all back together, check, recheck and triple check everything to make sure nothing was missed….like a vacuum hose, hose clamp or a bolt. You should have (1) small bolt leftover from the HP fuel line bracket that wasn’t reattached.

When satisfied, now comes the moment of truth: starting the car up and seeing if there are no fuel leaks and everything works. It’s a moment you’re excited for and on edge at the same time. Have that fire extinguisher ready.

On initial start up, cycle through accessory mode, Let’s sit for about a minute then turn off..

Do not depress the clutch and actually turn the engine on. Repeat this process several times. The purpose of doing this is to prime the fuel system.

Go ahead and start the engine preferably with the car still raised and under body plastics removed to allow a clear, unobstructed view of the HP fuel fitting at the fuel rail. Verify there are no gasoline leaks. The engine may run a little rough at first. Mine ran

Do the same at the XDI HPFP. If no leaks, success! Turn the car off and put the under plastics back on and lower the car. Physical installation of the XDI HPFP and HP fuel line mod complete.

The final step is to connect with your tuner and adjust the car to recognize and enable the XDI HPFP then adjust throttle settings.

In my case, connected the MoTeC to a our laptop and Salasko Racing made the adjustments to the tune via Team Viewer. Ben then had me drive it, then checked the data logs and made final tweaks and it was ready to go. No serial number or code input was required.

Unsure how this works if using Hondata or Ktuner. But should be somewhat similar.

Then the best part… take the car to a favorite place to experience the difference the XDI HPFP and HP fuel line mod makes to your build.

Took mine for an early morning mountain run. Good times!

As mentioned previously, can’t express how significant this upgrade is. Worth every dollar. Acceleration response feels perfect for my goals for the car. Gamechanger! Only regret is would have installed this 10 months earlier if had known the difference it would make. Kudos to XDI

This concludes the XDI HPFP install and HP fuel line modification write up. Went into a lot of detail and repeated certain points, but this is a critical mod that requires all to be correct.

For anyone interested the XDI HPFP can be purchased through forum members @turbociv910 or @kefi.

 

[haltamer]

Completely unrelated, but what brake fluid is that? Didn't know it came in pink grapefruit flavour.

(That being said, I've just remembered the EU Regulation that banned ATE-Super Blue - We're only allowed plain old amber brake fluid now )

 

[fatherpain]

It’s Motul RBF660

Completely unrelated, but what brake fluid is that? Didn't know it came in pink grapefruit flavour.

(That being said, I've just remembered the EU Regulation that banned ATE-Super Blue - We're only allowed plain old amber brake fluid now )

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