Mitsubishi drop in turbo upgrade for CTR

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Any tips on install before I do it how long did it take
How are you tuning it and what supporting mods?
Well that depends , usually I take around hour and 45 minutes to remove the turbo , depending on which mods you have installed , some aftermarket parts such as downpipe could have the bolts more difficult to remove than other etc it has oem downpipe and turbo shields of it just a blanket etc. You need to remove : intake inlet pipe , downpipe , top bar support ( on top of the radiator) and then you will have acces to the turbo . Then you can remove all the bolts from the exhaust manifold, turbo bracket ( underneath of the turbo ) oil line on top and the bottom , vacune and boost line ( bov, and vac line ) and for last one the water line , that is messy soon as you remove that line the coolant start to leaking, you need to get ready a plug for it. Then you can swap the turbo and reverse the steps , just make sure to never spins the turbine with your hands , cover exhaust manifold exit , intercooler hose and turbo inlet housing for prevent any coolant or any particles goes in . And add oil to the turbo before to plug the feeding oil line .

I do my own tunning , so for this customer I just did a quick tuning before go to the Dyno . A Dyno tunning could take around 1 to 4 hours depending on how much are you planing to squeeze from your setup and get everything cover .
 

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Any tips on install before I do it how long did it take
How are you tuning it and what supporting mods?
for the insrallation you can take the downpipe installation as a "starting" point? for the tuning the approach is the same as the oem turbo? small tweak/logs(on a already tuned car)on the tune and go!
 

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This customer has oem exhaust , aftermarket front pipe , catless downpipe , oem intake , oem fuel system , just pump 93 , oem inlet pipe .
 


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I forgot to post these pictures for compare , difference in sizes of the inlet diameter

Honda Civic 10th gen Mitsubishi drop in turbo upgrade for CTR 1B6360D4-D6E8-47B5-8915-E12175C8383C


Honda Civic 10th gen Mitsubishi drop in turbo upgrade for CTR E65A7583-B0C2-4C28-A693-BC5798BC421C
 

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Well that depends , usually I take around hour and 45 minutes to remove the turbo , depending on which mods you have installed , some aftermarket parts such as downpipe could have the bolts more difficult to remove than other etc it has oem downpipe and turbo shields of it just a blanket etc. You need to remove : intake inlet pipe , downpipe , top bar support ( on top of the radiator) and then you will have acces to the turbo . Then you can remove all the bolts from the exhaust manifold, turbo bracket ( underneath of the turbo ) oil line on top and the bottom , vacune and boost line ( bov, and vac line ) and for last one the water line , that is messy soon as you remove that line the coolant start to leaking, you need to get ready a plug for it. Then you can swap the turbo and reverse the steps , just make sure to never spins the turbine with your hands , cover exhaust manifold exit , intercooler hose and turbo inlet housing for prevent any coolant or any particles goes in . And add oil to the turbo before to plug the feeding oil line .

I do my own tunning , so for this customer I just did a quick tuning before go to the Dyno . A Dyno tunning could take around 1 to 4 hours depending on how much are you planing to squeeze from your setup and get everything cover .
Great! Thanks I’ve done about 4 downpipe installs so I assumed it was only maybe another 20 mins worth of bolts to get the turbo off!
Seems simple! Thanks
 

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Great! Thanks I’ve done about 4 downpipe installs so I assumed it was only maybe another 20 mins worth of bolts to get the turbo off!
Seems simple! Thanks
Yes the downpipe is very easy to do , but if you have done other mechanics works you definitely can do it yourself.
 

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Well that depends , usually I take around hour and 45 minutes to remove the turbo , depending on which mods you have installed , some aftermarket parts such as downpipe could have the bolts more difficult to remove than other etc it has oem downpipe and turbo shields of it just a blanket etc. You need to remove : intake inlet pipe , downpipe , top bar support ( on top of the radiator) and then you will have acces to the turbo . Then you can remove all the bolts from the exhaust manifold, turbo bracket ( underneath of the turbo ) oil line on top and the bottom , vacune and boost line ( bov, and vac line ) and for last one the water line , that is messy soon as you remove that line the coolant start to leaking, you need to get ready a plug for it. Then you can swap the turbo and reverse the steps , just make sure to never spins the turbine with your hands , cover exhaust manifold exit , intercooler hose and turbo inlet housing for prevent any coolant or any particles goes in . And add oil to the turbo before to plug the feeding oil line .

I do my own tunning , so for this customer I just did a quick tuning before go to the Dyno . A Dyno tunning could take around 1 to 4 hours depending on how much are you planing to squeeze from your setup and get everything cover .
You mentioned you do your own tuning. Have you finished tuning this turbo yet? I installed mine and still data logging. What PSI have you found you’ve been able to keep it at from mid 3k to redline consistently?
 


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You mentioned you do your own tuning. Have you finished tuning this turbo yet? I installed mine and still data logging. What PSI have you found you’ve been able to keep it at from mid 3k to redline consistently?
Nice! I saw your post , I installed this turbo in another R , but I really love what I saw on the logs , so ordered one for myself. I haven’t Dyno tuned his car yet , I did a street tune , I saw 25 psi midrange and it keep it up to top end 26 psi peak , but I didn’t pushed the hpfp that much , I kept it in 95% max , but i saw 4.5 to 4.2mm max at top end on the turbo wste gate , it means this turbo was laughing all the time compared to oem , oem was at 2.35 mm mid range 26 psi and 1.1 mm top end , at 23 psi , it means it was already maxed out . Course it depending on which intercooler has installed piping etc , bigger intercooler more hard work the turbo . When I get mine I will post more info regarding tuning . I didn’t wanted to push the turbo at middle range , I had fuel but without Dyno is no real reference where the torque is at .
 

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Nice! I saw your post , I installed this turbo in another R , but I really love what I saw on the logs , so ordered one for myself. I haven’t Dyno tuned his car yet , I did a street tune , I saw 25 psi midrange and it keep it up to top end 26 psi peak , but I didn’t pushed the hpfp that much , I kept it in 95% max , but i saw 4.5 to 4.2mm max at top end on the turbo wste gate , it means this turbo was laughing all the time compared to oem , oem was at 2.35 mm mid range 26 psi and 1.1 mm top end , at 23 psi , it means it was already maxed out . Course it depending on which intercooler has installed piping etc , bigger intercooler more hard work the turbo . When I get mine I will post more info regarding tuning . I didn’t wanted to push the turbo at middle range , I had fuel but without Dyno is no real reference where the torque is at .
Right on, I did not do a fuel system. I really wanted to see what a true drop in turbo would do for the car.
If it would make 20-30hp more but with less boost.
Unsure on it so we c will see
 

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Right on, I did not do a fuel system. I really wanted to see what a true drop in turbo would do for the car.
If it would make 20-30hp more but with less boost.
Unsure on it so we c will see
Understand, but you actually for make more power you need more boost or change the advance timing , if you going for the route of tunning the advance timing you will need another fuel , more octane , add meth or ethanol. The easy way to achieve more power is adding more boost , specially at top end is were the oem turbo lacks . Depending on the Dyno , but I’ve seen around 405~410 whp on oem fuel system without meth or ethanol, pump 93 octane aftermarket turbo on a heavy roll Dyno , probably hub Dyno you can see bigger numbers .
 

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Also you will see more consistent power , due the oem turbo compensation for temperature or atmospheric pressure, with aftermarket turbo you can disable or adjust less aggressive these values .
 

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Late night data-logging with the Mitsubishi turbo on Ktuner
Stock fuel, slowly chipping away at the tuning. Next tune will bump up the boost on the top end. Only about half way through the tuning
 


 


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