Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 0B19F859-E320-4072-BBBE-B13055C04FF2

Thanks Taylor. Here are the other Dream Automotive offerings from previous posts to shed a little light on what to expect.

High flow catted downpipe with hard lagging (similar to water pipe) and the turbo oil return clamshell heat shield (Turbo heat shield). The bronze wrap is advertised for the clutch line, but I can’t figure out where it goes. :dunno:


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 80668D0B-6869-4DFB-B0C6-44B8F722106C

The hard lagging (DP right) is applied by a company outsourced by Dream. I’d imagine if someone were interested, they could send any part to Dream and request it to be similarly wrapped, but it would be expensive.

It’s rated to 1200F and they claim it decreases temps from 1000F down to 200F. I believe this as can touch the lagging without burning my fingers after driving. :thumbsup:


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 803DDCBC-BE0C-4F68-8831-56F9498C5C54

The hard lagging is actually fairly soft. I had to mash it a little to get one of the downpipe studs to fit. But this shows about how thick the insulation is.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 8755EE52-1F1B-44BA-BF94-30F6B6FFF884

And where the turbo oil return clamshell installs to.


that hard lagging stuff looks awesome!
 
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I didn't know it was insulation, only thought it was a heat shield. It doesn't look easy to make either, that took some skill if its done by hand
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R B73E4A54-106A-4407-9AE7-6E5F2C23F013

I suspect this post will mainly be applicable to Motec owners. But might be helpful to others. After reconnecting the battery and turning the car on, was greeted by this super annoying message requesting a code for the anti-theft car play system. Of course I have no idea what the code possibly could be... So the head unit locked out. :banghead:


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 3EB1DA13-02C4-40F1-A2F3-6C5C4647F836
Under normal circumstances, this is the message encountered after disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. It clears by simply holding the power button for (2) seconds as indicated on the screen.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R D75708A1-B3C9-4A8E-A224-A9EE9E0BA731
But the code request persisted. Asked my Honda tech nephew and he suggested performing a master reset.

This is performed by:
  • disconnecting the cables from the battery terminals negative first, positive last.
  • Covering the battery terminals with something non conductive like a piece of cloth, rubber or cardboard to prevent the wires from coming back in contact.
  • Connecting the positive and negative cables with a pair of alligator clips.
  • Leave like this for about (15) minutes to allow the system to completely discharge and power down.
  • Remove the clips and reconnect the battery positive first, negative last.
  • Master reset complete. Start the car.
Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 3FF95056-36D3-458F-B2D3-258ECB18BA4D
Whelp, after doing so, was still greeted by the code request lockout ?

Discouraged, called the dealer and they said to bring it and they’d take a look. No charge if something simple, but if the issue were complicated by mods there may be a significant charge starting at $150 just to diagnose. Well considering where my OCD tendencies have taken me and also being out of warranty, I said F that ? Besides I don’t need service techs joyriding my car ?


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R E763F038-316B-41AF-AE39-49294F2B5585

Fortunately there is more than one way to skin a cat. ? Decided to try something different. Performed another master reset..


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 0FA00AE6-BB48-4354-946E-C0E7898FEF6A

Swapped the electrical harnesses from the Motec to the good old trusty OEM ECU ?


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 63BC37F9-6AF4-45D9-939C-30CE9BDA856A
Returned the battery to normal, crossed my fingers and fired it up. Bingo, Bango, Bongo!! ?


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R E7254480-F799-4A91-8D36-58009EC3572C
As Austin Powers might say: “YEAH BABY YEAH!!! Problem solved.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 1A9C2979-4512-467F-9E31-6DA4257295F4
Turned the car off and switched back to Motec. Turned the car back on and confirmed all was good. :headbang:

Pretty certain this anomaly is due to the Motec. Would be nice to get the code from the dealer so don’t have to go through this if the Issue crops up again... or maybe there’s a setting that can be turned off in the Motec logic. :dunno:
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R E131669A-B16E-477D-882F-DF8A08E6CA0B

With an upcoming outing @Big Willow approaching, took the car to a shop specializing in track alignments at the urging of one of my buddies.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R EA90B412-B8DC-4E58-9A55-54E3BC36CE0C

West End Alignment in Gardena.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 295006AC-FE79-491B-9952-C51A67CAE3A2

Though the car is on stock suspension, it can be dialed further for track use by removing the front damper guide pins to allow for a small amount of negative camber adjustment..

Be aware, pulling the pin is non reversible. Once it’s out, it’s out.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R CDE22F45-C840-4BD5-9BE6-5BEC614BCDFA

West End demonstrated an easy and ingenious method for pin removal: Use a spacer (or stacked washers) to serve a strong back.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R F81FC4DE-AB81-427F-87D6-9E5D47B3379C

Thread a 14mm nut onto the pin...


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R F0743F34-063D-406F-BA80-637B6756036D

Then use a ratchet to tighten the nut. As it’s turning, it will press against the spacer and jack the pin out.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R FF48EBC6-1CD5-422C-A0DC-9565E1ED7BB8

Just like this. Here is the pin removed.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 9BCFDA2A-8542-4D41-9E4F-D70980025177

West end then proceeded to align the car.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R BFBD3A9D-8684-442D-846C-FF84978C9321

Front camber was adjusted to negative 1.8 degrees.

Rear was negative 2.2 and 2.0 respectively.

Will be able to get more camber, please when finally get around to installing the JRZ coilovers and RV6 suspension stuff.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 15B36B33-97D4-48B2-A7D3-737865537C69
looking forward to see the effect of negative camber at the track. Also my steering wheel is now perfectly straight again... Had gone off at Streets of Willow at about 15mph at my last event (4) months ago, so I was overdue. ;)
 
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Ever since I met you at a cruise I swear I can hear your voice every time I’m reading your write ups haha. Thanks for the details don’t have a type r but I always enjoy seeing what route you’re going with your ride ?
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Heh, thank you brother :) was fun meeting up and driving Angeles Crest with you guys. Look forward to doing it again one of these days. If the missus didn’t complain about the amount of time I spend tinkering on the car, I’d probably try to get out there a couple times a month. :drive:

Though our cars have differences, there are enough similarities that hopefully a lot of this content still applies. Honda really nailed it on the 10th generation. Love em all :)

Ever since I met you at a cruise I swear I can hear your voice every time I’m reading your write ups haha. Thanks for the details don’t have a type r but I always enjoy seeing what route you’re going with your ride ?
 

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What was your front camber prior to pulling the pins, sorry if i missed it. Ill probably do this mod as well.
 
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fatherpain

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Hey there Alpha,

Apologies I don’t know what the as found settings were. Asked West End and they said they didn’t bother checking. They just set it where it needed to be. ?

FWIW, I was on the OEM stock alignment. The car had been previously re-aligned twice, both times at Honda.

Will be going to West End Alignment from now on. Cost was $150.

It will likely be abit more to align coilovers and corner balancing, when the time comes. ?


What was your front camber prior to pulling the pins, sorry if i missed it. Ill probably do this mod as well.
 
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Any particular reason for going more camber in the rear?

I ask because I recently got my car aligned twice because I realized the car pushes a lot with that much camber in the rear. My initial setting was -1.4 Front and -2.2 rear. Had to dial back the camber in my rears to -1.5 and up the fronts to -1.7. I feel as though -2 would be perfect but I don't think my car is low enough to run that much on just springs.
 
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fatherpain

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Hi samji,
I’m a n00b to suspension tweaking, all I can offer is I’ve tracked on the stock suspension and alignment the (7) times I’ve gone... and have noticed excessive tire wear towards the outer edges. I just told West End what I wanted the alignment for and they dialed in the settings.

Sunday 2/21/21 will be the first with a track alignment and some negative camber, so am interested if I’ll notice the difference.

A great person to ask about rear camber would be @Lust. One of these days I’ll summon the courage to follow his lead and install the RV6 components that are waiting to go on along with a set of JRZ RS Pro coilovers, which will allow for greater adjustability in the rear and front.


Any particular reason for going more camber in the rear?

I ask because I recently got my car aligned twice because I realized the car pushes a lot with that much camber in the rear. My initial setting was -1.4 Front and -2.2 rear. Had to dial back the camber in my rears to -1.5 and up the fronts to -1.7. I feel as though -2 would be perfect but I don't think my car is low enough to run that much on just springs.
 
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fatherpain

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Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 468A2A48-73E5-4D91-82A8-AEE41162614E
Hmmm... checked the cabin air filter on a whim and here is the condition after just 6k miles since the last change. ?

Gonna have to check it at shorter intervals it seems.
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R D01722C1-49CB-432E-9FD6-3EB72CA1F017

Connected with Salasko Racing to check out a few anomalies identified during my daily drives. Ben determined the burbles and pops I had misinterpreted as misfire, was traction control retarding ignition to limit wheel spin.

Cannot toggle auto rev match OFF in Motec’s latest software revision and my car occasionally wants to stall when decelerating hard, downshifting to 2nd while turning. Motec is aware of this bug and will fix in a future update. In meantime, Ben will eliminate the issue by adjusting some settings.

With a track day on the horizon, Ben recommended upgrading to Motec’s level 3 logging, so we did.


Honda Civic 10th gen Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R 0A1D191E-F71C-4F63-901D-586442F4783D

Also committed to a Motec display unit and GPS upgrade. Ben says in addition to showing various read outs, he can program a variety of warnings which should be useful at the track.

Originally had been considering an AIM Solo 2 DL and Defi analog gauges. This display will take the place of those and offer additional features.
 
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B73E4A54-106A-4407-9AE7-6E5F2C23F013.jpeg

I suspect this post will mainly be applicable to Motec owners. But might be helpful to others. After reconnecting the battery and turning the car on, was greeted by this super annoying message requesting a code for the anti-theft car play system. Of course I have no idea what the code possibly could be... So the head unit locked out. :banghead:


3EB1DA13-02C4-40F1-A2F3-6C5C4647F836.jpeg
Under normal circumstances, this is the message encountered after disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. It clears by simply holding the power button for (2) seconds as indicated on the screen.


D75708A1-B3C9-4A8E-A224-A9EE9E0BA731.jpeg
But the code request persisted. Asked my Honda tech nephew and he suggested performing a master reset.

This is performed by:
  • disconnecting the cables from the battery terminals negative first, positive last.
  • Covering the battery terminals with something non conductive like a piece of cloth, rubber or cardboard to prevent the wires from coming back in contact.
  • Connecting the positive and negative cables with a pair of alligator clips.
  • Leave like this for about (15) minutes to allow the system to completely discharge and power down.
  • Remove the clips and reconnect the battery positive first, negative last.
  • Master reset complete. Start the car.
3FF95056-36D3-458F-B2D3-258ECB18BA4D.jpeg
Whelp, after doing so, was still greeted by the code request lockout ?

Discouraged, called the dealer and they said to bring it and they’d take a look. No charge if something simple, but if the issue were complicated by mods there may be a significant charge starting at $150 just to diagnose. Well considering where my OCD tendencies have taken me and also being out of warranty, I said F that ? Besides I don’t need service techs joyriding my car ?


E763F038-316B-41AF-AE39-49294F2B5585.jpeg

Fortunately there is more than one way to skin a cat. ? Decided to try something different. Performed another master reset..


0FA00AE6-BB48-4354-946E-C0E7898FEF6A.jpeg

Swapped the electrical harnesses from the Motec to the good old trusty OEM ECU ?


63BC37F9-6AF4-45D9-939C-30CE9BDA856A.jpeg
Returned the battery to normal, crossed my fingers and fired it up. Bingo, Bango, Bongo!! ?


E7254480-F799-4A91-8D36-58009EC3572C.jpeg
As Austin Powers might say: “YEAH BABY YEAH!!! Problem solved.


1A9C2979-4512-467F-9E31-6DA4257295F4.jpeg
Turned the car off and switched back to Motec. Turned the car back on and confirmed all was good. :headbang:

Pretty certain this anomaly is due to the Motec. Would be nice to get the code from the dealer so don’t have to go through this if the Issue crops up again... or maybe there’s a setting that can be turned off in the Motec logic. :dunno:
B73E4A54-106A-4407-9AE7-6E5F2C23F013.jpeg

I suspect this post will mainly be applicable to Motec owners. But might be helpful to others. After reconnecting the battery and turning the car on, was greeted by this super annoying message requesting a code for the anti-theft car play system. Of course I have no idea what the code possibly could be... So the head unit locked out. :banghead:


3EB1DA13-02C4-40F1-A2F3-6C5C4647F836.jpeg
Under normal circumstances, this is the message encountered after disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. It clears by simply holding the power button for (2) seconds as indicated on the screen.


D75708A1-B3C9-4A8E-A224-A9EE9E0BA731.jpeg
But the code request persisted. Asked my Honda tech nephew and he suggested performing a master reset.

This is performed by:
  • disconnecting the cables from the battery terminals negative first, positive last.
  • Covering the battery terminals with something non conductive like a piece of cloth, rubber or cardboard to prevent the wires from coming back in contact.
  • Connecting the positive and negative cables with a pair of alligator clips.
  • Leave like this for about (15) minutes to allow the system to completely discharge and power down.
  • Remove the clips and reconnect the battery positive first, negative last.
  • Master reset complete. Start the car.
3FF95056-36D3-458F-B2D3-258ECB18BA4D.jpeg
Whelp, after doing so, was still greeted by the code request lockout ?

Discouraged, called the dealer and they said to bring it and they’d take a look. No charge if something simple, but if the issue were complicated by mods there may be a significant charge starting at $150 just to diagnose. Well considering where my OCD tendencies have taken me and also being out of warranty, I said F that ? Besides I don’t need service techs joyriding my car ?


E763F038-316B-41AF-AE39-49294F2B5585.jpeg

Fortunately there is more than one way to skin a cat. ? Decided to try something different. Performed another master reset..


0FA00AE6-BB48-4354-946E-C0E7898FEF6A.jpeg

Swapped the electrical harnesses from the Motec to the good old trusty OEM ECU ?


63BC37F9-6AF4-45D9-939C-30CE9BDA856A.jpeg
Returned the battery to normal, crossed my fingers and fired it up. Bingo, Bango, Bongo!! ?


E7254480-F799-4A91-8D36-58009EC3572C.jpeg
As Austin Powers might say: “YEAH BABY YEAH!!! Problem solved.


1A9C2979-4512-467F-9E31-6DA4257295F4.jpeg
Turned the car off and switched back to Motec. Turned the car back on and confirmed all was good. :headbang:

Pretty certain this anomaly is due to the Motec. Would be nice to get the code from the dealer so don’t have to go through this if the Issue crops up again... or maybe there’s a setting that can be turned off in the Motec logic. :dunno:
https://radio-navicode.honda.com/

See this thread on how to get the serial number:
https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/radio-code-serial-how-to-find.35045/
 
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