turbociv910
Senior Member
- First Name
- taylor
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2019
- Threads
- 22
- Messages
- 1,010
- Reaction score
- 993
- Location
- wilmington nc
- Vehicle(s)
- 2020 SGP Civic Type R, Audi Q5
- Build Thread
- Link
that hard lagging stuff looks awesome!
Sponsored
that hard lagging stuff looks awesome!
Ever since I met you at a cruise I swear I can hear your voice every time I’m reading your write ups haha. Thanks for the details don’t have a type r but I always enjoy seeing what route you’re going with your ride ?
What was your front camber prior to pulling the pins, sorry if i missed it. Ill probably do this mod as well.
Any particular reason for going more camber in the rear?
I ask because I recently got my car aligned twice because I realized the car pushes a lot with that much camber in the rear. My initial setting was -1.4 Front and -2.2 rear. Had to dial back the camber in my rears to -1.5 and up the fronts to -1.7. I feel as though -2 would be perfect but I don't think my car is low enough to run that much on just springs.
I suspect this post will mainly be applicable to Motec owners. But might be helpful to others. After reconnecting the battery and turning the car on, was greeted by this super annoying message requesting a code for the anti-theft car play system. Of course I have no idea what the code possibly could be... So the head unit locked out.
Under normal circumstances, this is the message encountered after disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. It clears by simply holding the power button for (2) seconds as indicated on the screen.
But the code request persisted. Asked my Honda tech nephew and he suggested performing a master reset.
This is performed by:
- disconnecting the cables from the battery terminals negative first, positive last.
- Covering the battery terminals with something non conductive like a piece of cloth, rubber or cardboard to prevent the wires from coming back in contact.
- Connecting the positive and negative cables with a pair of alligator clips.
- Leave like this for about (15) minutes to allow the system to completely discharge and power down.
- Remove the clips and reconnect the battery positive first, negative last.
- Master reset complete. Start the car.
Whelp, after doing so, was still greeted by the code request lockout ?
Discouraged, called the dealer and they said to bring it and they’d take a look. No charge if something simple, but if the issue were complicated by mods there may be a significant charge starting at $150 just to diagnose. Well considering where my OCD tendencies have taken me and also being out of warranty, I said F that ? Besides I don’t need service techs joyriding my car ?
Fortunately there is more than one way to skin a cat. ? Decided to try something different. Performed another master reset..
Swapped the electrical harnesses from the Motec to the good old trusty OEM ECU ?
Returned the battery to normal, crossed my fingers and fired it up. Bingo, Bango, Bongo!! ?
As Austin Powers might say: “YEAH BABY YEAH!!! Problem solved.
Turned the car off and switched back to Motec. Turned the car back on and confirmed all was good.
Pretty certain this anomaly is due to the Motec. Would be nice to get the code from the dealer so don’t have to go through this if the Issue crops up again... or maybe there’s a setting that can be turned off in the Motec logic.
https://radio-navicode.honda.com/
I suspect this post will mainly be applicable to Motec owners. But might be helpful to others. After reconnecting the battery and turning the car on, was greeted by this super annoying message requesting a code for the anti-theft car play system. Of course I have no idea what the code possibly could be... So the head unit locked out.
Under normal circumstances, this is the message encountered after disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. It clears by simply holding the power button for (2) seconds as indicated on the screen.
But the code request persisted. Asked my Honda tech nephew and he suggested performing a master reset.
This is performed by:
- disconnecting the cables from the battery terminals negative first, positive last.
- Covering the battery terminals with something non conductive like a piece of cloth, rubber or cardboard to prevent the wires from coming back in contact.
- Connecting the positive and negative cables with a pair of alligator clips.
- Leave like this for about (15) minutes to allow the system to completely discharge and power down.
- Remove the clips and reconnect the battery positive first, negative last.
- Master reset complete. Start the car.
Whelp, after doing so, was still greeted by the code request lockout ?
Discouraged, called the dealer and they said to bring it and they’d take a look. No charge if something simple, but if the issue were complicated by mods there may be a significant charge starting at $150 just to diagnose. Well considering where my OCD tendencies have taken me and also being out of warranty, I said F that ? Besides I don’t need service techs joyriding my car ?
Fortunately there is more than one way to skin a cat. ? Decided to try something different. Performed another master reset..
Swapped the electrical harnesses from the Motec to the good old trusty OEM ECU ?
Returned the battery to normal, crossed my fingers and fired it up. Bingo, Bango, Bongo!! ?
As Austin Powers might say: “YEAH BABY YEAH!!! Problem solved.
Turned the car off and switched back to Motec. Turned the car back on and confirmed all was good.
Pretty certain this anomaly is due to the Motec. Would be nice to get the code from the dealer so don’t have to go through this if the Issue crops up again... or maybe there’s a setting that can be turned off in the Motec logic.