Official RV6 R365 turbo thread

NicKoLi

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That’s the one that I’m running. On my previous post it has a link to my install video. All that your doing is venting air to atmosphere instead of recirculating. Being that it’s still using the factory bov you don’t have any control issues. Like I said I ran it on the stock ecu and no trouble codes or driveability issues.
I was just going off of some reviews on maperformance. I like to over analyze before I make any kind of decision.
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Oh lordy here we go with the BOVs & BPVs. ?

Long story short: atmo BOVs can confuse the stock ECU because it's expecting air dumped by the stock recirc BPV to be recirculated. Between the MAF & MAP sensor readings it can for the most part compensate but there are some more fluctuations vs. recirc. How much the ECU gets confused and what if any bad reliability this causes is very much up for debate by people who know more about this stuff than I.

I came from BMWs and I had it drilled into my head that the stock BPVs on those were garbage, and my BPV (called diverter valves in BMW land) did in fact go bad so I replaced mine with a GFB DV+.

Supposedly the Si BPV is not nearly as failure-prone as those that come on BMWs and other Euro cars, but there's theoretically room for improvement. Because the stock valve is a diaphragm valve and the aftermarket ones are piston valves. In theory this could hold boost better but nobody's tested the aftermarket BPV options extensively.

Here's tuner DRob's opinion:

Honda Civic 10th gen Official RV6 R365 turbo thread bov-



Here's a more detailed description I tried to make of the difference between diaphragm & piston valves. I of course got promptly jumped on for daring to suggest the stock BPV might somehow be improved upon:

I agree with most of what DRob says here. But he's only talking about part of the picture with aftermarket BPVs, i.e. the spring.

The other part he doesn't talk about is the stock BPV uses a diaphragm valve while the Forge Motorsport and Boomba BPVs use piston valves. A diaphragm valve has a (usually rubber) diaphragm that creates the seal when the valve is closed. A piston valve uses a solid piston (metal in this case) to completely block off the path of whatever's trying to flow through the valve.

s5QSy-o1zdz7hFJ2eMF3_GmJ3t8LvN_r9TNaJmEx7eC0H2-COQ.png


Piston-Valve1.jpg


I'm not a mechanical engineer, but here's a good explanation of the differences between diaphragm and piston valves: https://control.com/forums/threads/piston-vs-diaphram-control-valve.29708/

If you look at most of the information about diaphragm valves, the seal they create is more prone to leaking the more pressure they're trying to hold. Piston valves do not have these issues with pressure.

Hypothetically speaking, the the stock BPV diaphragm valve could be generally working fine, but in certain situations might be bleeding off boost without being told to do so by the ECU, due to its potentially imperfect sealing at high pressure.

If that's the case, then there could be gains to be had from an aftermarket piston valve BPV that consistently holds boost except when absolutely needed.

Now, getting back to what DRob is saying here. He says to not mess with too stiff of a BPV spring. He did not say that all aftermarket BPVs come with too stiff of a spring.

Boomba doesn't say anything about their springs, but Forge does. The valve comes with the softest green spring and they offer other stiffer springs to pair with different boost levels.

https://www.forgemotorsport.com/Valve_Spring_Tuning_Kit--product--826.html

One would hope that the springs in these things are selected in such a way to not cause issues vs the stock BPV, but Forge offering several different springs gives me a bit more confidence that the softest couple spring options could be soft enough to not cause problems.
If your stock BPV holds boost with the upgraded turbo, you can probably keep running it. If you really want to try and improve upon it, I would try the Forge recirc BPV if anything, but who knows if it'll actually be an improvement.
 

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Oh lordy here we go with the BOVs & BPVs. ?

Long story short: atmo BOVs can confuse the stock ECU because it's expecting air dumped by the stock recirc BPV to be recirculated. Between the MAF & MAP sensor readings it can for the most part compensate but there are some more fluctuations vs. recirc. How much the ECU gets confused and what if any bad reliability this causes is very much up for debate by people who know more about this stuff than I.

I came from BMWs and I had it drilled into my head that the stock BPVs on those were garbage, and my BPV (called diverter valves in BMW land) did in fact go bad so I replaced mine with a GFB DV+.

Supposedly the Si BPV is not nearly as failure-prone as those that come on BMWs and other Euro cars, but there's theoretically room for improvement. Because the stock valve is a diaphragm valve and the aftermarket ones are piston valves. In theory this could hold boost better but nobody's tested the aftermarket BPV options extensively.

Here's tuner DRob's opinion:

bov-jpg.jpg



Here's a more detailed description I tried to make of the difference between diaphragm & piston valves. I of course got promptly jumped on for daring to suggest the stock BPV might somehow be improved upon:


If your stock BPV holds boost with the upgraded turbo, you can probably keep running it. If you really want to try and improve upon it, I would try the Forge recirc BPV if anything, but who knows if it'll actually be an improvement.
to add on to this
https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/oh-no-not-another-bov-thread.57978/
 
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Please guys can we keep the BOV talk on the BOV thread. This can easily eat up pages on a thread and I would like to keep the focus of this thread on the RV6 turbo.
 


NicKoLi

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Oh lordy here we go with the BOVs & BPVs. ?

Long story short: atmo BOVs can confuse the stock ECU because it's expecting air dumped by the stock recirc BPV to be recirculated. Between the MAF & MAP sensor readings it can for the most part compensate but there are some more fluctuations vs. recirc. How much the ECU gets confused and what if any bad reliability this causes is very much up for debate by people who know more about this stuff than I.

I came from BMWs and I had it drilled into my head that the stock BPVs on those were garbage, and my BPV (called diverter valves in BMW land) did in fact go bad so I replaced mine with a GFB DV+.

Supposedly the Si BPV is not nearly as failure-prone as those that come on BMWs and other Euro cars, but there's theoretically room for improvement. Because the stock valve is a diaphragm valve and the aftermarket ones are piston valves. In theory this could hold boost better but nobody's tested the aftermarket BPV options extensively.

Here's tuner DRob's opinion:

bov-jpg.jpg



Here's a more detailed description I tried to make of the difference between diaphragm & piston valves. I of course got promptly jumped on for daring to suggest the stock BPV might somehow be improved upon:


If your stock BPV holds boost with the upgraded turbo, you can probably keep running it. If you really want to try and improve upon it, I would try the Forge recirc BPV if anything, but who knows if it'll actually be an improvement.
Kinda reinforces what I was worried about. I guess im not going to mess with it .. full bolt ons and upgraded turbo are all the sounds im getting. I guess I have to give it more gas with the window open lol
 

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Owning my si has killed multiple car ownership desires. All the cars I used to want to own, I’ve beaten in races.
 

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Yo beta testers you guys religiously sending data to Rich? Wondering when production will start.
 

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Yo beta testers you guys religiously sending data to Rich? Wondering when production will start.
I’m waiting on my new plugs to come in then I’m heading to my local dyno to get some pulls laid down. I’ll be posting the results on here. As for some info this turbo is definitely worth the money. It’s pull is intense. I’d describe it as a drag or roll race turbo. Short tracks like autocross style where you don’t get above 3rd gear I wouldn’t recommend. But big tracks where you get to final gear I’d recommend.
 


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Yikes it has been a busy month! Gearing up for the first production run. The first prototypes have been running strong since around June. These units didn't even have our upgraded bearing system.

Is there a maximum safe allowable boost for this turbo that is recommended for longevity?
I would stay under 30PSI. This issue with these small frame turbos is that the bearing system were designed for OE boost levels. We did have custom bearings made with higher capacity and better oiling for the BETA turbos. However without testing we wont know the answer. We will be generous with the warranty in the beginning to see what the limits are. We also plan on offering a rebuilding service.

I’m also curious about anti-lag will this turbo be able To handle it or is it best to refrain?
It is best to refrain from anti-lag for longevity. There have been no provisions made to the turbo to allow it to stand up to anti-lag.

I plan to take it as far as it will go safely I already have 4 bar sensors so if the turbo can exceed 32psi I’m ready for it
Can't wait to see what she does.

I know the W1 isn't recommended to exceed 28psi for best life, I would assume this is similar but rich @RV6 would have to answer that. I know people have gone over that for sure, don't know if it really affect the life of the turbo or not.
28-30PSI will most likely be the safe range.

That shouldn’t be a problem. Derek just tuned a hatch with a bigger turbo and ethanol that made 293whp.
Any more details on this?

On a seperate note, has anyone gotten an upgraded bypass valve like the boomba racing one. I am hearing things like better sound and more consistant psi. Anyone know ?
I only hear bad things from the pros about these. They come up for sale used all the time. The must be a reason why.

Good to hear it's coming along man. I had clearance issues with prls front pipe also, I ended up switching to maperformance front pipe along with their cat back.
I would expect better from PRL. Did they try and resolve the issue? All I hear is PRL PRL PRL everyday. :p
 
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Yikes it has been a busy month! Gearing up for the first production run. The first prototypes have been running strong since around June. These units didn't even have our upgraded bearing system.


I would stay under 30PSI. This issue with these small frame turbos is that the bearing system were designed for OE boost levels. We did have custom bearings made with higher capacity and better oiling. However without testing we wont know the answer. We will be generous with the warranty in the beginning to see what the limits are. We also plan on offering a rebuilding service.


It is best to refrain from anti-lag for longevity. There have been no provisions made to the turbo to allow it to stand up to anti-lag.


Can't wait to see what she does.


28-30PSI will most likely be the safe range.


Any more


I would expect better from PRL. Did they try and resolve the issue? All I hear is PRL PRL PRL everyday. :p
yea they said they sent me a frontpipe with the incorrect flange by accident And sent me a replacement but at that point I already decided to switch to the map fp since I bought their exhaust. It was dissapointing, at first they tried to say I installed it wrong, after sending pictures of the one bolt head hitting the pipe with no way of getting it to catch the threads they could seen the real issue. Not the best QC over there I guess.
 

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I would expect better from PRL. Did they try and resolve the issue? All I hear is PRL PRL PRL everyday. :p
Gonna keep my mouth shut on this one :p
 

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Yikes it has been a busy month! Gearing up for the first production run. The first prototypes have been running strong since around June. These units didn't even have our upgraded bearing system.


I would stay under 30PSI. This issue with these small frame turbos is that the bearing system were designed for OE boost levels. We did have custom bearings made with higher capacity and better oiling. However without testing we wont know the answer. We will be generous with the warranty in the beginning to see what the limits are. We also plan on offering a rebuilding service.


It is best to refrain from anti-lag for longevity. There have been no provisions made to the turbo to allow it to stand up to anti-lag.


Can't wait to see what she does.


28-30PSI will most likely be the safe range.


Any more details on this?


I only hear bad things from the pros about these. They come up for sale used all the time. The must be a reason why.


I would expect better from PRL. Did they try and resolve the issue? All I hear is PRL PRL PRL everyday. :p

I just need to set up the appointment to get tuned but how much would the rebuild cost with the custom bearing I don’t mind being the guinea pig on this one to see what the limits are on both bearings but looking to see if they can keep up to a 2867 kit which would be amazing for a drop in
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