How fucked am I ?!

Ty3366!!

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So i didnt want to post this for a while but i am curious and feel like why not share my experience. Anyway, to keep this brief i installed (PRL cobra race maf, intercooler/charge pipes, catted dp/fp, flex fuel. 27won W1, T.I.P. Ktuner V2. And a few other non power related mods.) and i uploaded the 27won w1 race maf ethanol tune on ktuner software booted up and put an E25 mix in because apparently i couldn't math for E30 lol, got on the highway and gunned it. Well it pulled pretty fucking hard. Until about the 3rd pull, from a dig in 4th gear at bout 2700rpm and at about 4000 give or take it started to spit a few times pulled really hard for a brief second (more than the other times) than cut all fuel. All the warning lights popped up like when you first flash your car. And put me in limp mode. Threw a few codes. Cant remember them. Went home reflashed thinking maybe it was the tune or something. Wasnt. Kept going so, i took a data log and had 17 degrees of knock retard and cylinder 4 was mis firing hardcore i believe it said 14? Idk so i did a compression test. Wrong of course because im an amateur . Called the shop i was having my protune scheduled at and i went in an they did a leak down and compression test.

compression test:
Cylinder 1-125/125
Cylinder 2-160/155
Cylinder 3-160/160
Cylinder 4-155/155

leak down test went perfect.

So they concluded cylinder 1 was low but “wouldnt consider it a dead cylinder” i am running very rich and to baby it until my dyno day 10/07. This was like a week and a half ago. This problem also only happens in sport mode (map 3). So i drained the tank put just 93 in and have been driving on map 1 fairly easy but i like to hear the turbo whistle. And its fairly loud with the w1/tip compared to stock so sometimes i step on it ??‍♂ Sue me. Theres white smoke that comes out of the exhaust sometimes mainly when i stop at a red light and pull away like the unburnt fuel has been collecting i suppose. And the oil smells like gas when i pull the dipstick out to check the oil i smell it. The coolant and oil levels don’t fluctuate. The day after i got the compression test/leakdown test the tuner recommended i switch from 0w20 to a 10w30. So i did 5w30 about 700 miles ago and 150 miles after this problem occured if that makes sense. if not I’ll elaborate that. I plan on changing the oil right after the protune if all goes as planed and we should be safe right?

so my questions are. Do you think i killed a or all piston rings? How worn are my bearings. Do you think the engine will last much longer ?

Heres some pics to sweeten the deal!

Honda Civic 10th gen How fucked am I ?! C0656CA2-45ED-40D4-BC64-C5F30F26F6E7


Honda Civic 10th gen How fucked am I ?! 2A555497-173D-45BA-92A9-7B7AF0597BB4


Honda Civic 10th gen How fucked am I ?! 5FE6BBDF-5066-4AD4-A81D-91DAEE49CCB8


Honda Civic 10th gen How fucked am I ?! 20785352-C1A2-4DD2-AAD3-9651B41CB05C


Honda Civic 10th gen How fucked am I ?! C3025EC3-723D-4EAF-8EDC-9F2615CC1D01
 

herox

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I would cancel your dyno appointment and go get the low compression situation with cylinder 1 sorted before you further damage the motor. Since you still have some compression hopefully the damage isn't too bad. If it is, you have a good excuse to do a built motor and you already have all the go fast goodies. Whatever you do, please do update us :)
 

gtman

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Agree with herox about canceling the appointment for now.

Not gonna lecture you, just state some facts. The 1.5T can only take so much. The first issue here is that you were running ethanol, a race intake, dp, fp, ic, tip and w7... without a custom tune. The KTuner tune is very good but isn't necessarily designed for FBO's. Then, even after going into limp mode, throwing codes and the shop telling you to take it easy, you still were gunning it? o_O

Also, were you constantly monitoring your parameters like fuel trims and datalogging to keep tabs on how things were running leading up to this?

I run the community tuning reliability survey and this is a basic scenario that seems to cause many failures, unfortunately.

Good luck with everything. Hopefully your engine isn't too far gone. What codes did you actually throw originally (overboost?)?
 
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varge

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+1 to sorting out the compression issue. Keep in mind that repairing & building the engine at this stage will be cheaper and far more convenient than having to deal with a thrown rod / stuck piston / blown turbo or whatever may cross paths with broken stuff ...
 


bcrichster

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I agree with @JT Si , was same problems with my 6th gen. Head gasket would leak from cylinder(s), blowing exhaust into the coolant, causing mad air pressure and large air pockets.. that alone can cause performance issues and can theoretically account for your low compression in cylinders. Replacing the head gasket at this point may be a worthwhile investment on this..
 

Deleted User 1886347

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Seen this last night but was too tired to reply.
I won’t repeat things regarding the custom tune or mods.

Go get another leak down test. Especially after running the car again after your initial tests. The fact that Cylinder 1’s compression is a decent amount lower on a newer engine and white smoke coming out of the exhaust, you have a leak somewhere. Likely head gasket or piston rings, but I’m leaning towards head gasket. When the head gasket blew on my 3.0 I4 in my boat, same symptoms of low compression, and when I tore the engine down, lo and behold.

Luckily you haven’t thrown a rod yet, so at least if you need to end up rebuilding your motor, it’ll be significantly cheaper to rebuild the block with stronger internals rather than replace everything after a catastrophic failure. If you’re going to tear it down to that extent, and have the cash that you’re willing to invest, I’d just rebuild especially if you have all those mods. Save you from having to tear the motor down again.

Good luck. I’m subscribing to this because I’m curious about the outcome!
 

websitesdown

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Seen this last night but was too tired to reply.
I won’t repeat things regarding the custom tune or mods.

Go get another leak down test. Especially after running the car again after your initial tests. The fact that Cylinder 1’s compression is a decent amount lower on a newer engine and white smoke coming out of the exhaust, you have a leak somewhere. Likely head gasket or piston rings, but I’m leaning towards head gasket. When the head gasket blew on my 3.0 I4 in my boat, same symptoms of low compression, and when I tore the engine down, lo and behold.

Luckily you haven’t thrown a rod yet, so at least if you need to end up rebuilding your motor, it’ll be significantly cheaper to rebuild the block with stronger internals rather than replace everything after a catastrophic failure. If you’re going to tear it down to that extent, and have the cash that you’re willing to invest, I’d just rebuild especially if you have all those mods. Save you from having to tear the motor down again.

Good luck. I’m subscribing to this because I’m curious about the outcome!

Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy the built block? I would think with labor cost and parts involved it would be cheaper.

https://www.twostepperformance.com/...r-the-2016-honda-civic?variant=32369881645188

That thing handles 600+HP

Mind you if it is indeed just his head gasket then the answer there is an obvious no. Just saying if he blew a ring is all.

If I manage to blow some stuff up, I'm going that route no doubt about it. I'm one bolt on behind him which is the drop in turbo. I'm also running a custom tune from drob so everything seems to be running fn excellent so fingers crossed but still, stuff happens am I right? I figure if I start seeing issues or hearing them from the turbo that's when I'll do the drop in like he has and pay to have it retuned by drob at that point.

I agree with @JT Si , was same problems with my 6th gen. Head gasket would leak from cylinder(s), blowing exhaust into the coolant, causing mad air pressure and large air pockets.. that alone can cause performance issues and can theoretically account for your low compression in cylinders. Replacing the head gasket at this point may be a worth while investment on this..
If it is a head gasket he'll be able to tell right away once the head is lifted off from the block from what I've seen with people with blown head gaskets on these engines.
 
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Deleted User 1886347

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Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy the built block? I would think with labor cost and parts involved it would be cheaper.

https://www.twostepperformance.com/...r-the-2016-honda-civic?variant=32369881645188

That thing handles 600+HP

Mind you if it is indeed just his head gasket then the answer there is an obvious no. Just saying if he blew a ring is all.

If I manage to blow some stuff up, I'm going that route no doubt about it. I'm one bolt on behind him which is the drop in turbo. I'm also running a custom tune from drob so everything seems to be running fn excellent so fingers crossed but still, stuff happens am I right? I figure if I start seeing issues or hearing them from the turbo that's when I'll do the drop in like he has and pay to have it retuned by drob at that point.



If it is a head gasket he'll be able to tell right away once the head is lifted off from the block from what I've seen with people with blown head gaskets on these engines.
I guess realistically it depends how much money he’s got to “invest” into the car and how far he’s wanting to go.

If he wants to build a beast then maybe the TSP built block is his best route. But if he’s not taking it much further than what he’s got now (I’m doubting this scenario) then rebuilding with stronger internals on the original block may not be a bad route to take. However, I have zero experience in building an engine so that’s where my knowledge ends, that’s just guessing for me at this point.
I doubt I’d take my Civic much further than the W1/W2 Turbo, and a Type R Retrofit clutch. That’s where I’d draw the line for my civic if I even get that far. So I never looked into it further.

OP: If money is tight, do the head gasket (if that’s the only issue), pray that the rings are still good, and if they are and your compression issues go away, take a step back and do things properly. Wait for the custom tune to be uploaded before going all out next time ;) and hopefully things work out better next time. Love seeing you guys go all out!
 
OP
OP
Ty3366!!

Ty3366!!

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Moneys not an issue for me im still young and have a good income. So if i blow it up ill just fully build. I plan on doing tsp built motor with saenz rods bc spings port and polish the head. Whole nine here. This coming summer but if i have to do it sooner than ok lol I appreciate all the feedback but like my mom told me the other day “sometimes you have this self righteousness about you like you should have a cape” so ima fuckin send it brooo! tune is on Wednesday wish me luck ill post updates for sure !
 


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Moneys not an issue for me im still young and have a good income. So if i blow it up ill just fully build. I plan on doing tsp built motor with saenz rods bc spings port and polish the head. Whole nine here. This coming summer but if i have to do it sooner than ok lol I appreciate all the feedback but like my mom told me the other day “sometimes you have this self righteousness about you like you should have a cape” so ima fuckin send it brooo! tune is on Wednesday wish me luck ill post updates for sure !
If nothing else, be sure your tuner is aware of whatever issues the car is coming in with so that he knows how best to handle the situation.
 
OP
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Ty3366!!

Ty3366!!

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yea he is aware it was his shop I had the compression/leakdown test done at, I also told him I wanna stay slightly conservative and only do 27lbs and no snap crackle pop since I have a high flow cat and stock internals. As for the guy asking for the codes I threw, I honestly couldn't tell you. One was for the map sensor one was something about the wheel speed sensor and a few others. I have no idea because the problem only occurs when im whooping on it in sport mode with ethanol so maybe the map sensor can not read all the boost its making and freaks and the ecu says fuck it all here's limp mode?(refresh the same tune and zero problems while DD, except the smoke) I do not think I have a head gasket issue or that im burning oil or coolant. like I said the levels have not fluctuated at all and I check them both everyday. the whiteish smoke isn't a big cloud and is only if the car has been idling for a second at full operating temp. when im driving there's no smoke I had my dad follow me to confirm this.
 

kshawn

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Are you able to look at your own logs or post up a log in a zip.
 

SuperMotoManDRZ

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From your car's symptoms.. especially gas smell from the dipstick oil.. sounds like you have blown some rings. Maybe just cracked them and it's letting blowby occur.. as for the smoke from the tailpipe that's almost always head gasket related. Did the car overheat at any point in time? Even just slightly overheat or does it do it now? I'm not sure of the way the internal coolant and oil passages are setup in this motor. Haven't got to see that yet and hopefully don't ever have to lol.

If I were you, just rebuild it to stay on the safe side.. don't drive until you do so.. then removal and tear down will go smoothly with nothing else broken.

Wish you luck Honda bro.. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for sure.
 


 


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