The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models)

[HF31]

How long have you had the Mambatek TD03 for?


Also, how are your temps with Wagner ic?

I've had the Mamba for around three months now, it's a peppy little fellow. Unfortunately I do not have any devices that can monitor my IAT2. What I can share is that when I did 6 hard 0-60 pulls, the timings were pretty consistent, so I figured my Wagner IC is doing its job to stablise the temps. Though I would recommend 27Won, PRL and Mishimoto over Wagner, simply because it does not provide a complete Cold-side pipe. Hence I had to use AEM to complete the cold-side piping.

Sponsored

 

[86salmon]

I've had the Mamba for around three months now, it's a peppy little fellow. Unfortunately I do not have any devices that can monitor my IAT2. What I can share is that when I did 6 hard 0-60 pulls, the timings were pretty consistent, so I figured my Wagner IC is doing its job to stablise the temps. Though I would recommend 27Won, PRL and Mishimoto over Wagner, simply because it does not provide a complete Cold-side pipe. Hence I had to use AEM to complete the cold-side piping.

I already have PRL with pipes. I was curious about Wagner since they use a tube fin core

 

[bcrichster]

Quick question for you ktuner V2 users, do you leave your units plugged in 24/7? Or only when the car is on? It would be cool to just connect it and forget it, but I've heard conflicting reports on whether or not it will occasionally drain the battery

I actually remove unit when not being directly used for flashing. Would reconnect if needing logs but haven't needed to (so far, Lol).

 

[RoB y4h3ll]

Quick question for you ktuner V2 users, do you leave your units plugged in 24/7? Or only when the car is on? It would be cool to just connect it and forget it, but I've heard conflicting reports on whether or not it will occasionally drain the battery

I've left mine in since January. The only time it comes out is to upload logs to my desktop, or for Honda maintenance. I've gone an entire week with out starting the car and checked the battery voltage. It showed 12.4v so once the screen goes off, it stays off until its unplugged and plugged back in. I always unplug the cable from the unit its self, not the OBD2 port.
I wish it would power on by its self, but not unless its re plugged in. If that was the case though, the unit would drain the battery.
As for those who tune a car and then remove the tuner when applicable to stay In the car, that's just not smart if you are rough on the car. Now for day to day commute's, sure take it out. @gtman As for the revert to the last OTF map, it doesn't stick for me. I mean sure it says its on map 3, but the boost tells a different story. I always have to move back to map 1, then back to 3 on EVERY crank up.

 

[Drake]

I've left mine in since January. The only time it comes out is to upload logs to my desktop, or for Honda maintenance. I've gone an entire week with out starting the car and checked the battery voltage. It showed 12.4v so once the screen goes off, it stays off until its unplugged and plugged back in. I always unplug the cable from the unit its self, not the OBD2 port.
I wish it would power on by its self, but not unless its re plugged in. If that was the case though, the unit would drain the battery.

Ah I hadn't thought about that third option, leave the ktuner in the car but just unplug the screen when not in use. I also didn't know it won't automatically boot up when you start the car if left plugged in, thanks for the info!

 

[RoB y4h3ll]

Ah I hadn't thought about that third option, leave the ktuner in the car but just unplug the screen when not in use. I also didn't know it won't automatically boot up when you start the car if left plugged in, thanks for the info!

No problem at all. But just to be clear, I leave it plugged in 24/7 unless I need to park in a parking lot with no cover on a hott day, in this case, I unplug it, then take it off of the mount and place it in the passenger seat back pocket. . I would hate for my Ktuner to die because of heat and get stuck with a tune on the car.

 

[charleswrivers]

Update from post #24 on page 2. Now within a week of dailying TSP 24.5# map for 2 years on the stock clutch w/o issue:

Vehicle: 2018 Si sedan

Total tuned time: about 31 months. All but the first 2 months of the car’s life.

Total tuned mileage: 25,000. Car currently has 27,2xx miles.

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2.

Tunes used: Ktuner 21 (about a month) Ktuner 23# (a couple months, basemap modified to only reach 21# until 4000 RPM), Ktuner 23# basemap (this time with additional timing added after 4000 RPM), TSP Stage 1 since 7/31/18 (24.5# map in map 1 position so it is the only map I run) for about 17,000 over that 2 year period.

Additional engine mods: PRL silicone hose/Green Filter (The “PRL Stage 1”)

Fuel used: 93 octane, not brand specific. Typically fill up on base, sometimes at one of a couple gas stations out in town.

Problems/issues: None (powertrain). I did bring in the car and have the A/C looked at and they ended up pulling and replacing the Freon as there was some cabin noise back in April ‘19. I went back to the dealer around February ‘20 so they could sort out some interior rattles. I did an early change to Amsoil MTF during the second year of owning the car... the same as I did with my ‘02 RSX Type S and ‘15 Si. Each ones shifting performance drastically improved.

Driving style: Generally low speed city to <55 MPH highway driving. Some stop and go going on/off base. Lots of WOT acceleration and quick cornering, holding momentum. Car is almost always in sport mode. An occasional NLS. No use of antilag/launch control. I will however do a mild street launch now and then. No high speed runs... car has never seen triple digit speeds (still!). Occasionally some interstate driving (less than 3000 miles total).

Average trip in the car is probably 10 miles to/from work. Car is driven pretty hard on its short trips. I get low to mid-30s for tank averages w/o trying. Just did my 4th oil change. I use 0w-20 Castrol Magnetec or whatever you call it... as it’s $16-18/jug on subscribe and save and change around 20% on the MM (around 7000 miles). Been using the stuff for years... it’s cheap and none of the 3 vehicles that use it complain. I use Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filters, also on S&S (reviewed good on BITOG years ago) every other change per the MM. Changed brake fluid at 2-2.5 years as it popped on the MM and was right before the Dragon meet that got cancelled. Stock Goodyear summers are worn at 50% tread or so but will go until next year.

No evidence of fuel dilution by smell or rising oil level.

Car is not abused but driven hard and enjoyed.

 

[gtman]

Thanks for the in-depth update, Charles.

These long term updates are really valuable and not just in terms of the survey's statistics. The updated driver experience info lets other see how the various tunes and setups are doing over an extended period of time. It would be awesome if more members would post updates to their original surveys.

Speaking of your update, I did want to get your take on something. So many people have said if you update to the TSP 1 (and use the high powered map) "you'll need an upgraded clutch". And yet you seem to not be shy about keeping the tune in Map 3 and two years in your clutch is fine.

What's your key to the long clutch life? Or do you think those with clutch troubles on Map 3 were possibly abusive?

 

[86salmon]

Speaking of your update, I did want to get your take on something. So many people have said if you update to the TSP 1 "you'll need an upgraded clutch". And yet you seem to not be shy about keeping the tune in Map 3 and two years in your clutch is fine.

What's your key to the long clutch life? Or do you think those with clutch troubles on Map 3 were possibly abusive?

Tsp map 3 then turbo swap, on stock clutch with 20k miles tuned, 28k total miles


I don't know @charleswrivers Zen secret, but I came from a Nissan too ?

I think it's luck mostly, although I don't shift hard or launch often when regularly driving. I also didn't tune until 8k or so miles. So maybe I had a good break in. When I bought my si the salesman warned me about the clutch. Even before tsp stage 1 came out, untuned people were complaining about the weak clutch. It really feels hit or miss to me

 

[charleswrivers]

Thanks for the in-depth update, Charles.

These long term updates are really valuable and not just in terms of the survey's statistics. The updated driver experience info lets other see how the various tunes and setups are doing over an extended period of time. It would be awesome if more members would post updates to their original surveys.

Speaking of your update, I did want to get your take on something. So many people have said if you update to the TSP 1 ond use the high powered map "you'll need an upgraded clutch". And yet you seem to not be shy about keeping the tune in Map 3 and two years in your clutch is fine.

What's your key to the long clutch life? Or do you think those with clutch troubles on Map 3 were possibly abusive?

I don’t feel like I do anything different on this car than any of my past cars that include 5 Nissan Zs... 4 of them turbos and a Si Civic and RSX type S. This car... like all those cars make the majority of their power in the upper 1/2 of the RPM band... and when I want to push the car, keep my revs in the 4000-6000 range.

What I think: This car makes diesel-like torque down low and folks are not downshifting and letting the engine make all peak power... they see the car can make between 2500-4000 RPM. They’re relying on that torque peak to move the car in high gears without considering that, with lower gearing and higher revs... you can produce more actual wheel torque by using a couple gears lower and higher revs, even if you’re past your engine torque peak. We’ve got a pile of people demanding high levels of boost at low RPMs because our turbo is undersized and can spool quick and make massive torque down low. What you don’t get from a dyno is you’re seeing torque across one gear. This of this:

You’re going 55 MPH and want to pass a car. You decide you want to floor the car. At 55 mph (for ‘17-‘19s)the engine is spinning about 2050 RPMs. Your engine will make 210 ft-lbs. This amount of torque at full boost will peak in excess of 275 ft-lbs as your car accelerates towards 80 MPH at 3000 RPM.
You are mechanically doing the equivalent of hopping on a bicycle at middling speeds and trying to pedal in the bikes highest gear. Counter torque is high because you have little leverage/mechanical advantage trying to turn a tiny gear slowly. Still, if you came from an NA 4 cylinder car that wouldn’t have made close to 200 ft lbs of toque even at its torque peak (my RSX made 130 peak or so, as I recall. I think the big K24Z7... about 150. The K20C2s in bases dyno at just over 100). This makes the car ‘feel’ fast from the torque compared to an NA car and folks may not eel the need to downshift.

Same passing scenario: I downshift to 4th gear at 55 MPH. RPMs rise to 3100. My engine makes it’s near peak of 270 ft lbs. If I complete that same pass at 80 MPH... I’m turning 4500 RPM and making 260 ft lbs. The whole time I made more torque.

But how does horsepower come into play? 6th gears ratio is .686. 4th is 1.024. So the advantage of 1.024/.686 means that while in 4th I’m actually putting nearly those numbers to the wheels (then wheel size does its thing)... only about 2/3 the engine torque is effectively transmitted due to that overdriven gear. Even long past the torque peak in the last couple thousand RPMs...your car always is going to accelerate fastest and with the best mechanical advantage of gearing by letting the revs go high than flooring it at low RPMs. The car still makes the most power between 4500-6500 RPMs... even if the torque peak is long gone.

Would you rather spin your legs faster in a lower gear on a bike at lower speeds or kick it to the highest gear where your legs are straining and your standing on the damn pedals to try and get speed to build. Imagine the interface between your foot and pedal is the clutch. How much strain is it under? If the clutch doesn’t slip... how about those con-rods? That force is working its way back through the transmission to them.

So... in the end: stop driving the car like a diesel. Drive it like a gasoline-powered car... one that still makes the most power in the upper 1/2 of its RPM range. Honda picked a tiny turbo that makes a torque peak at the middle of its RPM range and falls off... but not to the point you should live between 2000-4000 RPM. If you reflash and make nearly 300 ft-lbs of torque at 3000 RPM, that’s great... but that’s the result of Honda’s turbo choice and what these tunes can do. It does not mean that is the appropriate place to try and make the car accelerate best. You have gears and you still go faster winding the car out up top... and it is less of a strain on everything down the line. Just because you can do something... doesn’t mean you should. You also don’t have to downshift either to accelerate in 6th... but you control the boost you build and the torque you make with the right foot. You’d be gentler by demanding low boost numbers producing lower torque values. You’ll never see me demanding 24.5# of boost in 5th or 6th gear... or those values under 3000 RPM in 3rd or 4th. Even if there plenty of torque that can be demanded by the engine at accomplish the desired acceleration... I’d consider driving like that ‘abuse’.

 

[gtman]

You’d be gentler by demanding low boost numbers producing lower torque values. You’ll never see me demanding 24.5# of boost in 5th or 6th gear... or those values under 3000 RPM in 3rd or 4th. Even if there plenty of torque that can be demanded by the engine at accomplish the desired acceleration... I’d consider driving like that ‘abuse’.

I guess that's what I was implying when I said the word abusive in my question. Not that people are out their abusing their ride by lauching and two stepping 24/7. Just that I wondered out loud if some people just don't know how to properly drive to minimize clutch wear.

In other words, maybe it's not the clutch or the tune, but mostly, the driver?

 

[charleswrivers]

I guess that's what I was implying when I said the word abusive in my question. Not that people are out their abusing their ride by lauching or two stepping 24/7. Just that I wondered out loud if some people just don't know how to properly drive to minimize clutch wear.

In other words, maybe it's not the clutch or the tune, but mostly, the driver.

I do think the clutch’s holding power and the tune... along with the design of the car placing a tiny TD025 turbo on our cars... but the driver chooses how the car is operated and the application of the throttle and in which gear it is used.

Would it be nice if the clutch would hold a TSP 1 tune making over 200 ft-lbs of torque at high way speed in 6th gear? Sure. You have gotten about 50% more than stock torque though at the peaks... and while you can floor it in 6th and get the car to move at a fair clip... why? Why would you do such a thing, y’know? To put the car under more stress to accelerate slower than downshifting makes no sense to me. In these cases... yes, I do think it’s on the people. Continuing to do this is going to glaze the clutch is going to reduce its holding power drastically and force a clutch replacement.

 

[RoB y4h3ll]

Update from post #24 on page 2. Now within a week of dailying TSP 24.5# map for 2 years on the stock clutch w/o issue:

Vehicle: 2018 Si sedan

Total tuned time: about 31 months. All but the first 2 months of the car’s life.

Total tuned mileage: 25,000. Car currently has 27,2xx miles.

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2.

Tunes used: Ktuner 21 (about a month) Ktuner 23# (a couple months, basemap modified to only reach 21# until 4000 RPM), Ktuner 23# basemap (this time with additional timing added after 4000 RPM), TSP Stage 1 since 7/31/18 (24.5# map in map 1 position so it is the only map I run) for about 17,000 over that 2 year period.

Additional engine mods: PRL silicone hose/Green Filter (The “PRL Stage 1”)

Fuel used: 93 octane, not brand specific. Typically fill up on base, sometimes at one of a couple gas stations out in town.

Problems/issues: None (powertrain). I did bring in the car and have the A/C looked at and they ended up pulling and replacing the Freon as there was some cabin noise back in April ‘19. I went back to the dealer around February ‘20 so they could sort out some interior rattles. I did an early change to Amsoil MTF during the second year of owning the car... the same as I did with my ‘02 RSX Type S and ‘15 Si. Each ones shifting performance drastically improved.

Driving style: Generally low speed city to <55 MPH highway driving. Some stop and go going on/off base. Lots of WOT acceleration and quick cornering, holding momentum. Car is almost always in sport mode. An occasional NLS. No use of antilag/launch control. I will however do a mild street launch now and then. No high speed runs... car has never seen triple digit speeds (still!). Occasionally some interstate driving (less than 3000 miles total).

Average trip in the car is probably 10 miles to/from work. Car is driven pretty hard on its short trips. I get low to mid-30s for tank averages w/o trying. Just did my 4th oil change. I use 0w-20 Castrol Magnetec or whatever you call it... as it’s $16-18/jug on subscribe and save and change around 20% on the MM (around 7000 miles). Been using the stuff for years... it’s cheap and none of the 3 vehicles that use it complain. I use Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filters, also on S&S (reviewed good on BITOG years ago) every other change per the MM. Changed brake fluid at 2-2.5 years as it popped on the MM and was right before the Dragon meet that got cancelled. Stock Goodyear summers are worn at 50% tread or so but will go until next year.

No evidence of fuel dilution by smell or rising oil level.

Car is not abused but driven hard and enjoyed.

This is legit my driving style! Lol.

All but the 3 digits. Ive been in the 3 digets a few times. Mainly for all of the back roads with about 7-15 cars cruising together.
I will change over to amsoil thanks to you. Lol.

Not sure if this makes a difference anymore but, I like to let the car idle after hard driving for about 1-5 minutes. depends on the situation honestly. I mean if its a massive group of cars, Id be idleing with my wife in the car for a few minutes locating a parking spot or gathering people for the next cruise kinda thing.

 

[gtman]

I do the same. This was my first turbo and I got the advice from my nephew actually.

Here's a good explanation I found online as well:

Idling the engine cools the turbo because it circulates the oil, yet does not make the turbo "work." The amount of cooling it needs is directly related to the way you just finished driving it. When you drive it gently around town, 15 seconds should be more than adequate. When you drive the car hard ie. when your husband drives it, you should let it cool for 30 to 60 seconds.

 

[Kaulpenney]

Vehicle: 2020 Civic Si Sedan

Total tuned time: 2 months

Total tuned mileage: 2500 miles

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V1.2

Tunes used: Phearable Stage 1.5

Fuel used: 93 Octane

Additional engine mods: PRL Intake

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: Slightly speedy with aggressive moments depending on my mood.

Tuning experience notes: At first I couldn’t get my map 3 up to the 25 psi like it said, so I re flashed the car and since I’ve had no issues. The car shifts so much more smooth and definitely added enough power and overall performance to be worth it.