FlashPro for CTR tuning results

[boosted180sx]

Thanks guys. Is it safe to say that the overall highest torque values are the same between the standard and improved throttle options (assuming that we're talking about the same base map for both)?

the WOT value should be the same. Its just the partial throttle values are adjusted.

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[davemarco]

Thanks. I wonder if anyone else prefers standard throttle mapping to the increased sensitivity.

 

[m_kluch]

Thanks. I wonder if anyone else prefers standard throttle mapping to the increased sensitivity.

I do prefer the standard sensitivity over the increased.

 

[boosted180sx]

Thanks. I wonder if anyone else prefers standard throttle mapping to the increased sensitivity.

just tune the throttle table to your liking. When its too sensitive, it makes it harder to modulate in the turns in my experience so i dumb it down.

 

[Hondata]

can the 100 octane tune be used with the stock fuel pump?
what's the FP duty cycle like?
is it safe for a track car?

Yes
85% on the track at 360 hp
Hell yes: Team Honda Research West. 2 CTRs. 25 hours each year over 2 years. Thats 100 hours. Both engines in perfect condition after 2 years racing.

 

[fiend busa]

Damn did I see that V1 Injen intake in that car :O

 

[aldksgo]

Might be a long shot but..

Anyone in Canada (or US I guess) tune for 91 with 0% ethanol and run exclusively on Shell 91 V-Power or whatever it's called? Is this safe to do or are the gains from the 0% to 10% ethanol on 91 not noticeable enough to risk it?

 

[fiend busa]

Might be a long shot but..

Anyone in Canada (or US I guess) tune for 91 with 0% ethanol and run exclusively on Shell 91 V-Power or whatever it's called? Is this safe to do or are the gains from the 0% to 10% ethanol on 91 not noticeable enough to risk it?

Running 10%, I think only your MPG will take a hit that's all.

 

[aldksgo]

Running 10%, I think only your MPG will take a hit that's all.

Thanks for the heads up! Appreciate it

 

[Doublestack00]

Are any of the Hondata base maps a set it and forget it?

My planned mods will be a AFE downpipe.

I've had my Si runnings Vits stage 1 Si tune for over 20K with no issues and haven't had to look or touch it.

That's what I will be looking for when I get the R as I just want a little bump in HP and spool speed but keep it tame and reliable as it will be my DD.

 

[davemarco]

Interesting observation: I just recently reflashed my Type R with a different Hondata basemap, and upon first restart, decided to let my car idle a bit. Initially, my KLevel was at around 10%, but the longer that I let the car idle, the higher it gradually climbed. I let the car idle for a total of 15 minutes, and in that time, it continued to climb all the way up to 20% (though I got the impression that it would continue to climb as long as I continued to let the car sit). Should I be concerned by this?

 

[AdamD19DFK8]

Interesting observation: I just recently reflashed my Type R with a different Hondata basemap, and upon first restart, decided to let my car idle a bit. Initially, my KLevel was at around 10%, but the longer that I let the car idle, the higher it gradually climbed. I let the car idle for a total of 15 minutes, and in that time, it continued to climb all the way up to 20% (though I got the impression that it would continue to climb as long as I continued to let the car sit). Should I be concerned by this?

Direct quote from Hondata on their forums

Ignore the knock level. It does not show anything useful for tuning or diagnosis.

I don't know if this is due to gas stations still carrying winter blend due to covid, but i've noticed my AFR and short term fuel trims have been caddy wompus in 4th gear and above lately



I even uploaded a basemap and got the same result.

I haven't changed anything inside the engine bay since early January. Looking at logs from earlier to mid May fueling looked fine.

When I ran the basemap today I would get a ton of knock retard 5k rpm and up from 4-6 on all cylinders. Previously on my own tune I had increased the knock sensitivity values by a large margin 5k RPM and up and reduced the knock step to -.75 from -2.25. Seems to me fuel quality is still crap. This is all on a 93 dp\ic tune. There isn't really anywhere around me to get some 100 octane to try and mix in the tank to see if it prevents this. Not quite sure what to do other than wait for fuel to switch to the summer blend. Any idea, @Hondata

 

[Centripetal]

Direct quote from Hondata on their forums




I don't know if this is due to gas stations still carrying winter blend due to covid, but i've noticed my AFR and short term fuel trims have been caddy wompus in 4th gear and above lately



I even uploaded a basemap and got the same result.

I haven't changed anything inside the engine bay since early January. Looking at logs from earlier to mid May fueling looked fine.

When I ran the basemap today I would get a ton of knock retard 5k rpm and up from 4-6 on all cylinders. Previously on my own tune I had increased the knock sensitivity values by a large margin 5k RPM and up and reduced the knock step to -.75 from -2.25. Seems to me fuel quality is still crap. This is all on a 93 dp\ic tune. There isn't really anywhere around me to get some 100 octane to try and mix in the tank to see if it prevents this. Not quite sure what to do other than wait for fuel to switch to the summer blend. Any idea, @Hondata

I'm pretty sure the EPA requires it to be switched out by June 1st . However, it might depend on what county your getting gas from.

Unfortunately, Octane (AKI) rating doesn't truly provide a measurement for knock resistance. With modern DI engines, Octane Index is a true measure of knock resistance. In other words, mixing 100 (AKI) octane with your normal pump gas may not increase your knock resistance. For example, I mixed my 93 octane with about 1 gallon of 94 octane and saw no knock retard afterwards, which was from certain properties of the 94 octane. In addition, some gasoline is less/more sensitive to swings in Intake Air Temperatures in respect to knock, which may be why you are seeing "caddy wompus" fuel trims.

 

[AdamD19DFK8]

I'm pretty sure the EPA requires it to be switched out by June 1st . However, it might depend on what county your getting gas from.

Unfortunately, Octane (AKI) rating doesn't truly provide a measurement for knock resistance. With modern DI engines, Octane Index is a true measure of knock resistance. In other words, mixing 100 (AKI) octane with your normal pump gas may not increase your knock resistance. For example, I mixed my 93 octane with about 1 gallon of 94 octane and saw no knock retard afterwards, which was from certain properties of the 94 octane. In addition, some gasoline is less/more sensitive to swings in Intake Air Temperatures in respect to knock, which may be why you are seeing "caddy wompus" fuel trims.

This year due to Covid and people not driving, the EPA sent out a memo allowing winter blend to be sold longer than usual since there was a surplus of it. But being well into June they should have switched over by now.

I went to the 3 nearest shops that advertised carrying race fuel but none of them had any since tracks have been closed. Reflashed my own tune before heading out and short term fuel trims looked much more stable, though AFR would still get up to +\- .50 of command. KR didn't show up other than a brief moment after letting off the throttle or a quick jab of throttle. I'm more concerned with the AFR than I am KR. I'll just have to keep an eye on it I guess

 

[aldksgo]

Anyone know if there is any real difference in the 91 downpipe, intercooler basemap vs 91 PRL downpipe, intercooler basemap?

Currently I've just got:

PRL Catted Downpipe
PRL Intercooler (no piping)
PRL HVI

FWIW I went with the PRL downpipe, intercooler basemap but was just curious.

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