'16 Civic, Rear Rotors Scorched, Cracked & Rusted

[civicmanic]

Trying to see how much you got out of 4x,xxx miles

With the pads having to go to work on rotors in that condition, they're most likely completely gone. Mine were with much less mileage.

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[jackson]

Same rust on mine, live in a salt belt. Replaced last year with centric brand from rockauto. Mine had 35000kms. But it's not really the mileage that does it, just the passage of time for the corrosion to go to work. My pads were 100% worn too, which is to be expected when having to clamp on to a coarse rusty old rotor. It's a cheap DIY fix.

Both our '15 and '16 rear brakes looked the same. The fronts were good though.

You got the actual part # for components you purchased? I see on RockAuto there is quite a few variances.

Also, was your piston to push back or you had to turn it back? The service manual instructions look like its just a push style to compress the piston back, some youtubve videos I see show it as having to be turned back..

 

[civicmanic]

You got the actual part # for components you purchased? I see on RockAuto there is quite a few variances.

Also, was your piston to push back or you had to turn it back? The service manual instructions look like its just a push style to compress the piston back, some youtubve videos I see show it as having to be turned back..

I used the centric 12040089 rotors. And centric 10518780 pads.

On our other car I used raybestos element 3. And I find those are quieter. Part numbers for those are pads EHT1878H. Rotors 982073FZN.

The rear piston turns in. You will probably find the boot is stuck and going to want to turn as you turn the piston. Be careful with that. You don't want to tear the boot. I hit it with some wd40 where the boot meets the piston, then turned the piston back and forth a little bit and this released boot from the piston. And honestly, I never removed any actuator or anything like that. Which apparently is a no-no. All I can say to that is I never had any issues with the way I did it. All I did was make sure the parking brake was off. Then turned the piston in. When the brake job was done, fire the car up. Pump the brakes a bunch of times and good to go.

 

[David Harper]

O.P. I agree that wear and damage doesn't seem right. Whatever you do DON'T buy cheap pads and rotors. I made that mistake once. Never again. And DON'T go to Midas, Meineke, or Merlin. They put inferior rotors and pads on your car and the next thing that happens is the rotors overheat and warp and you get a pulsation in your brakes. I'm going to try getting the OEM pads and rotors from honda and them take them somewhere to have them installed. Or do it myself.

 

[jackson]

I used the centric 12040089 rotors. And centric 10518780 pads.

On our other car I used raybestos element 3. And I find those are quieter. Part numbers for those are pads EHT1878H. Rotors 982073FZN.

The rear piston turns in. You will probably find the boot is stuck and going to want to turn as you turn the piston. Be careful with that. You don't want to tear the boot. I hit it with some wd40 where the boot meets the piston, then turned the piston back and forth a little bit and this released boot from the piston. And honestly, I never removed any actuator or anything like that. Which apparently is a no-no. All I can say to that is I never had any issues with the way I did it. All I did was make sure the parking brake was off. Then turned the piston in. When the brake job was done, fire the car up. Pump the brakes a bunch of times and good to go.

So I would need the little notch tool to turn the piston in? Or is the piston notched in such a fashion that you can get away with a screw driver or something?

O.P. I agree that wear and damage doesn't seem right. Whatever you do DON'T buy cheap pads and rotors. I made that mistake once. Never again. And DON'T go to Midas, Meineke, or Merlin. They put inferior rotors and pads on your car and the next thing that happens is the rotors overheat and warp and you get a pulsation in your brakes. I'm going to try getting the OEM pads and rotors from honda and them take them somewhere to have them installed. Or do it myself.

Yah no it wont be going to any of those "express" shine and lube spots. I will be doing the work myself.

 

[civicmanic]

So I would need the little notch tool to turn the piston in? Or is the piston notched in such a fashion that you can get away with a screw driver or something?

I bought this tool kit off amazon:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MUASKBF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another tip. If you have issues removing the set screw that holds the rotor on, just drill the head of the screw off and be done with it. Then put the lug nuts on the studs to protect them just in case of a miss swing of the sledge hammer, and hammer the rotor off hitting around the center area(not the area that the pads would bite onto). Use ear plugs! When you install the new rotor, you don't need to use the set screw anyway. The lug nuts will hold the wheel and rotor in place.

 

[civicmanic]

O.P. I agree that wear and damage doesn't seem right.

It's normal in an area where they use heaps of road salt several months out of the year.

 

[jackson]

It's normal in an area where they use heaps of road salt several months out of the year.

I wouldn't say its normal. I can show you my other car which has older pads and rotors and they are nothing of a Premium type or Performance pad/rotor.

I am positive its the quality of the pads & rotors put on at the factory. Or something messed with rear brake system that they don't properly operate where the pad cleans on the rotor regularly..

 

[civicmanic]

I wouldn't say its normal. I can show you my other car which has older pads and rotors and they are nothing of a Premium type or Performance pad/rotor.

I am positive its the quality of the pads & rotors put on at the factory. Or something messed with rear brake system that they don't properly operate where the pad cleans on the rotor regularly..

Well it's normal for the factory Honda rotors. Both my 9th and 10th gen rear rotors looked like yours after 3-4 years. The fronts are good. But the rears physically are so small and thin they are more susceptible to corrode.

 

[jackson]

Well it's normal for the factory Honda rotors. Both my 9th and 10th gen rear rotors looked like yours after 3-4 years.

Curious to see how the replacement set looks and lasts. I just ordered that same tool kit.. Amazon says May 9th delivery.. They have been backed up even though its a Prime Order.

 

[David Harper]

I wonder if all gen X civics have the same rotors. I have read that the civics built in the Canadian plant (in 2016) have better build quality than those built in the U.S. plants but I don't know if they all get the same rotors or not. Would be interesting to know. I do know that certain other parts differ depending on the vendors Honda utilizes. One of these, I believe, was the A.C. compressors some of which were defective. I just went out and looked at my rear rotors and they appear to be perfect. My car is a 2016 with 40K miles on it and I live in northern Illinois where they do routinely salt the roads.

 

[civicmanic]

I just went out and looked at my rear rotors and they appear to be perfect. My car is a 2016 with 40K miles on it and I live in northern Illinois where they do routinely salt the roads.

Do you get your brakes serviced at the recommended intervals? For the service, the brakes are disassembled, cleaned and lubed and put back together again. That would certainly extend their life. I didn't do it with mine.. Though I will do it myself from now on, once a year in the spring.

 

[David Harper]

nope. original brakes.

 

[civicmanic]

nope. original brakes.

All I can say is in my climate, this is common.

 

[jackson]

Well this sucks. Amazon Prime is telling me like 3 weeks until they can deliver that brake tool..

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