Dealer said my brakes need to be replaced next visit. Is this a realistic quote??

[WrongWayWade]

i think this thread is getting off topic,

the questions was, is the quote realistic, and i think everybody agrees it is way out of line,

They will tr

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[WrongWayWade]

Why would the rotors need to be turned?

As long as they are above the minimum Brembo-specified thickness, the only thing you need to do is change the pads.

Yes. My dealer claimed the rotors MUST be replaced every time you replace the rotors (“It’s just like a BMW” he says). My real mechanic tells me even with drilled/slotted rotors they can be lightly turned or just left alone when you get new pads. Unless they are warped you don’t need new rotors. That’s why the quote is a ripoff.

 

[tinyman392]

Yes. My dealer claimed the rotors MUST be replaced every time you replace the rotors (“It’s just like a BMW” he says). My real mechanic tells me even with drilled/slotted rotors they can be lightly turned or just left alone when you get new pads. Unless they are warped you don’t need new rotors. That’s why the quote is a ripoff.

Well the rotors do need to be replaced whenever you replace the rotors... otherwise it’s not a rotor replacement. Agree with the rest though

 

[WrongWayWade]

Well the rotors do need to be replaced whenever you replace the rotors... otherwise it’s not a rotor replacement. Agree with the rest though

oops: whenever you replace the PADS.

 

[tbobtx]

Guys. Back on topic. Yeah that dealership is trying to bed you over. Give bad review on google and yelp. That really gets management’s and Honda’s attention as to bad customer service and customer retention.

You need to Buy new OEM pads for front and back. Don’t buy shit from NAPA/Autozone/etc. They may be similar to what get on Si or std civic but this is a type R. The type R has special pads And special rotors that came with the car.

let me point out from experience(30+ years), If you use inferior pad you will have significant brake fading. If you try go with hawk or EBC metallic, you will have a lot of brake noise and wear out your rotor faster. trust me on this. I have learned the hard way. Yes getting aftermarket upgraded rotors do make sense but in this instance you already have amazing rotors.

take it to a neighborhood mechanic you trust to do pad and fluid flush or find a honda dealership that has coupons for the service and don’t take crap from them.

Once the Have another shop check rotors for being true and have enough meat on them first, then go ahead with the pad change. However, if there are some grooves in the rotor, have them scrub/skim the rotor first or your pads will develop those ridges and you will loose braking power as well as wear the pads down faster. Again, skimming is just taking off the high spots. Make sure you break in the pads. Look up online how to do it.
you can get around this if the mechanic, after truing and skimming the rotors, takes a Wire brush on a drill and scuffs up the surface of the rotor.

a lot of info but I hope gets you in right direction.

 

[Jervic]

DIY or ask around for independent mechanic and use them for future maintainnance.

 

[willskiGT]

I was probably a little aggressive in my wording, but overall the stock rotors are not really track-worthy. I have seen them wear out with a single day's track use, which, to me, is pretty weak given how this car was marketed. For daily use the stock rotors are fine, but the almost immediate grooving certainly doesn't inspire confidence longterm.

In what way did they "wear out" with 1 track day's use?

There is no way they were below minimum thickness in a day. It would take many days. Every car with cross drilled rotors has grooves - each groove lines up with a cross-drilled holes and it is not a big deal. The only thing to be concerned with on the stock rotors is cracking around the cross-drilled holes, but even then, the cracking isn't a concern unless the cracks are longer than 5mm or connect between holes (which would be more than 5mm anyway).

You need to Buy new OEM pads for front and back. Don’t buy shit from NAPA/Autozone/etc. They may be similar to what get on Si or std civic but this is a type R. The type R has special pads And special rotors that came with the car.

Once the Have another shop check rotors for being true and have enough meat on them first, then go ahead with the pad change. However, if there are some grooves in the rotor, have them scrub/skim the rotor first or your pads will develop those ridges and you will loose braking power as well as wear the pads down faster. Again, skimming is just taking off the high spots.

You don't need to buy OEM pads. The Type R is not a LaFerrari - sporty pads that aren't total crap will do just fine. You can get Centric (StopTech) or PowerStop (Z23 or Z26 depending on your intended use) from RockAuto for like $75 for both front and rear pads. Both are fine for daily use and will work for occasional track use (especially the Z26).

There is no need to "true"/skim/cut the rotors - doing so reduces the thermal capacity of the rotors. The grooves in the rotors will develop naturally because of the cross-drilled holes in the brakes. After a proper bedding in, the pads and brake rotor surface will conform to each other and you will not lose any braking force.

 

[fatherpain]

Here is a link to my online journal...i’ve posted a detailed step by step writeup complete with photos regarding rear brake pad, front brake pad and rotor change. Including the EPB disaster I ran into. Will post a brake bleed write up as well:

https://www.civicx.com/threads/fatherpain’s-2018-type-r.42379/

If interested, Scroll to the bottom of page 1 then see page 2.

This was the first time I’ve done brakes for any car, so was a learning experience. Now ready to do the job from here on out.

I'm super inept at DIY work. I don't know how to use any sort of tool, don't have a jack, jackstand, or anything of the sort. I could buy them, but the idea of someone who's completely inexperienced with this kind of work trying to do work on a car such as this seems like a terrible idea. I've watched plenty of Chrisfix videos but I can't ever muster the strength to try it myself.

Regarding replacements, I'm not exactly sure what of the three - rotors, discs and pads - actually need to be replaced and what doesn't. To that end I'm also unsure of aftermarket solutions. I checked Hondapartsnow as well to see what the going prices are and the dealer quote definitely seemed quite higher.

 

[tylermmorton]

I'm at 50k miles and haven't had to worry about my rotors.

You're probably fine in that regard

 

[tbobtx]

In what way did they "wear out" with 1 track day's use?

There is no way they were below minimum thickness in a day. It would take many days. Every car with cross drilled rotors has grooves - each groove lines up with a cross-drilled holes and it is not a big deal. The only thing to be concerned with on the stock rotors is cracking around the cross-drilled holes, but even then, the cracking isn't a concern unless the cracks are longer than 5mm or connect between holes (which would be more than 5mm anyway).



You don't need to buy OEM pads. The Type R is not a LaFerrari - sporty pads that aren't total crap will do just fine. You can get Centric (StopTech) or PowerStop (Z23 or Z26 depending on your intended use) from RockAuto for like $75 for both front and rear pads. Both are fine for daily use and will work for occasional track use (especially the Z26).

There is no need to "true"/skim/cut the rotors - doing so reduces the thermal capacity of the rotors. The grooves in the rotors will develop naturally because of the cross-drilled holes in the brakes. After a proper bedding in, the pads and brake rotor surface will conform to each other and you will not lose any braking force.

as I pointed out. If the rotors do need to be trued then go through the skimming, etc. if you don’t, you will have issues. If he went through pads this early in life there must be a reason and you have to get to bottom of the reason. Either mechanical or driver related(example: riding on the brakes).

 

[willskiGT]

as I pointed out. If the rotors do need to be trued then go through the skimming, etc. if you don’t, you will have issues. If he went through pads this early in life there must be a reason and you have to get to bottom of the reason. Either mechanical or driver related(example: riding on the brakes).

I have ~4700 miles on the car and my pads are at about 50-60% life, so 22,000 miles doesn't seem out of the question. If the car was tracked (especially if VSA was left on), driven mostly in the city, or saw a lot of aggressive street use, I could see the pads wearing out even before 22k miles. Just depends on how the car is driven.

I've always been one to even out deposited pad material with a good bedding in, rather than skimming. Like I said previously, reduces the rotor's thermal capacity and a lot of places won't touch a cross-drilled rotor.

 

[akadic]

I own the following tools to make brake pad replacements super easy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZ25DHN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122Q83T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[.grimace]

I own those as well the rears it’s nice. The front is easier to just push in with the old pad to me.

 

[CTR1633FK2]

If you need new cheap but good brake rotors, get these https://www.bremboparts.com/europe/...-x-hatchback-fc-fk-2-0-type-r-fk8/000127817-1
OEM quality (same Brembo) for $100 a piece.
I think you can get them cheaper than $129: https://www.brembostoreusa.com/prod...ed-pvt-coated-hc-for-honda-civic-type-r-17-18

 

[.grimace]

Dang that’s a solid deal if you wanted to stay oem

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