Type R is K-Tuned what should I do next?

jcp227

Senior Member
First Name
Jimmy Mack
Joined
Jul 29, 2018
Threads
16
Messages
250
Reaction score
183
Location
Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle(s)
2018 Honda Civic Type R, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue (It's even got a rear spoiler)
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
So I put a tune on my Type R last week and absolutely loving it. The rest of the car is still bone stock so I need to plan my next mod. This is not my daily driver and gets out once a week on dry sunny days. I was thinking of upgrading the intercooler next but wanted to get some opinions from others that have more experienced .This is my first car that I am modifying. I am good with tools and am financially stable. Please share your thoughts on what I should do next and provide the reasoning why. Thanks in advance.
Sponsored

 

typemismatch

Senior Member
First Name
Russell
Joined
Jun 15, 2017
Threads
8
Messages
974
Reaction score
945
Location
Fargo, ND
Vehicle(s)
A whole farm of Hondas
Country flag
I haven't tuned yet.

My first "mod" is thermal blankets and wrap on the intake and exhaust and a rear motor mount.

The blankets decrease engine bay temps which should lower intake temps and increase power.

Next on my list is an intercooler, then downpipe and front pipe, which will both be wrapped when I do them.

At that point it will be a toss up between cat-back exhaust or KTuner.

Wheels and tires will be in there somewhere, but I don't really consider that a mod.
 

a c i d.f l y

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2017
Threads
22
Messages
701
Reaction score
360
Location
Austin
Vehicle(s)
2017 Honda Civic EX 2.0 CVT Sedan w Sensing
Country flag
What's the Hp gain on a type r from ktuner? How does that compare to any other mod Hp/$? Can't imagine not starting from there, especially with a car that is already tuned from every other aspect.
 
OP
OP
jcp227

jcp227

Senior Member
First Name
Jimmy Mack
Joined
Jul 29, 2018
Threads
16
Messages
250
Reaction score
183
Location
Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle(s)
2018 Honda Civic Type R, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue (It's even got a rear spoiler)
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
What's the Hp gain on a type r from ktuner? How does that compare to any other mod Hp/$? Can't imagine not starting from there, especially with a car that is already tuned from every other aspect.
Stage 1 on a stock CTR is around 50whp from what there charts say. How accurate that is I can't tell you but what I can say is it brought the car to life. It puts you back in the seat and you have the extra power all through the power band. The power seems more linear in my opinion. Plus the engine sounds a little more aggressive and you get the whoosh and now off notice on a hard pull. I don't have experience with other add-ons but I doubt you will get the same money to power ratio with any other mod. Hope this helps some.
 

krees

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Threads
19
Messages
716
Reaction score
645
Location
Mountains of Central PA
Vehicle(s)
2018 Civic Type R & 2020 Ridgeline BE
Country flag
So I put a tune on my Type R last week and absolutely loving it. The rest of the car is still bone stock so I need to plan my next mod. This is not my daily driver and gets out once a week on dry sunny days. I was thinking of upgrading the intercooler next but wanted to get some opinions from others that have more experienced .This is my first car that I am modifying. I am good with tools and am financially stable. Please share your thoughts on what I should do next and provide the reasoning why. Thanks in advance.
Yeah, can you elaborate on the differences between stock and running a ktuner map? Is it a slight difference or is it more of a night and day difference. I have my ktuner v2 already...just dragging my feet on the ECU unlock. Maybe I shouldn't be though?
 


OP
OP
jcp227

jcp227

Senior Member
First Name
Jimmy Mack
Joined
Jul 29, 2018
Threads
16
Messages
250
Reaction score
183
Location
Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle(s)
2018 Honda Civic Type R, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue (It's even got a rear spoiler)
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
Yeah, can you elaborate on the differences between stock and running a ktuner map? Is it a slight difference or is it more of a night and day difference. I have my ktuner v2 already...just dragging my feet on the ECU unlock. Maybe I shouldn't be though?
Oh it is substantial and a lot better over stock. I have only driven it twice since the weekend so I am still evaluating things. With the tune, you always seem to have power there when you need it. It's really hard to put in words but the power curve is much smoother. Taking off it doesn't seem like there is a struggle other than wheel spin. When I did my first test I had wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear and then 3rd around 4500rpm. It was 60 degrees out so it was somewhat cool for the tires. I honestly didn't know what to expect but it exceeded my expectations all the way around and I haven't even messed with the other maps yet. Let me know if I can answer anything else.

Edit: I'm not sure how the heat is going to be so I plan to start watching the temps on tuner view as I don't want an issue with that. I see your from Florida so it might be something to watch when you do flash .
 
Last edited:

krees

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Threads
19
Messages
716
Reaction score
645
Location
Mountains of Central PA
Vehicle(s)
2018 Civic Type R & 2020 Ridgeline BE
Country flag
Oh it is substantial and a lot better over stock. I have only driven it twice since the weekend so I am still evaluating things. With the tune, you always seem to have power there when you need it. It's really hard to put in words but the power curve is much smoother. Taking off it doesn't seem like there is a struggle other than wheel spin. When I did my first test I had wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gear and then 3rd around 4500rpm. It was 60 degrees out so it was somewhat cool for the tires. I honestly didn't know what to expect but it exceeded my expectations all the way around and I haven't even messed with the other maps yet. Let me know if I can answer anything else.

Edit: I'm not sure how the heat is going to be so I plan to start watching the temps on tuner view as I don't want an issue with that. I see your from Florida so it might be something to watch when you do flash .
Many thanks for the reply. Yeah, temps will be a thing for me for sure being in Florida. Definitely planning on the intercooler upgrade, grill upgrade, etc to keep temps in check. Looks like you convinced me to just go ahead. I'm gonna do my first oil change and then flash away! Again, thanks for the info. I'm excited now!
 

toddrhodes

Senior Member
First Name
Todd
Joined
May 21, 2018
Threads
20
Messages
705
Reaction score
754
Location
Indiana
Vehicle(s)
'18 CTR #16979, '18 Odyssey
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
One thing tunes always seem to do is improve throttle response so even if at that point it's not making more power, a more responsive pedal just makes for a better overall experience.

If memory serves, I picked up 30 whp/30 tq on a mustang dyno, flashing between the "stock" map and Stage 1 on my CTR. Depending on other dynos, that could have been as much as 35-40 difference.

I think you did right getting a tune first. Being that you're in PA so it gets "hot" but not CA/TX/FL "hot," a FMIC can help, but being in IN myself, I did the FMIC last. I did a catted DP (RV6) and drop-in filter/PRL Stage 1 upgrade, along with cooling mods like ceramic coating on the DP, turbo blanket, and reflective tape on the intake pipe.

It's a little polarizing but I'm of the mind that *most* intakes won't do a whole lot - at least from a $$/hp perspective - and same with exhaust, however they have other qualities that make them valuable like tuning the sound the way you want, which IMO is an important aspect of enjoying the experience.

I also did a rear mount (love it) and the Acuity shifter. If nothing else, maybe upgrade the shifter bushings at the trans end.

Oh and almost forgot, even before a tune I'd have recommended at least considering a 245/35-20 tire change (Mich PS4S, Firehawk Indy 500, etc...) or a full change to 18s and 265/35 or 255/40, depending on the offset you choose. Those are major "upgrades" over the stock rubber bands which are ok for traction, but can leave one with a bent rim pretty easily and the stock setup is HEAVY, it's very noticeable to switch to a setup that is 7-10 lbs lighter at each corner.

Just my $.02.

Edit - one last thing - "K-Tuned" is actually a performance mod brand. Might be a little confusing as they make DP, exhaust, and stuff like that. You're tuned with KTuner, to be specific. Not trying to be a dick, just in case you weren't aware.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
jcp227

jcp227

Senior Member
First Name
Jimmy Mack
Joined
Jul 29, 2018
Threads
16
Messages
250
Reaction score
183
Location
Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle(s)
2018 Honda Civic Type R, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue (It's even got a rear spoiler)
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
One thing tunes always seem to do is improve throttle response so even if at that point it's not making more power, a more responsive pedal just makes for a better overall experience.

If memory serves, I picked up 30 whp/30 tq on a mustang dyno, flashing between the "stock" map and Stage 1 on my CTR. Depending on other dynos, that could have been as much as 35-40 difference.

I think you did right getting a tune first. Being that you're in PA so it gets "hot" but not CA/TX/FL "hot," a FMIC can help, but being in IN myself, I did the FMIC last. I did a catted DP (RV6) and drop-in filter/PRL Stage 1 upgrade, along with cooling mods like ceramic coating on the DP, turbo blanket, and reflective tape on the intake pipe.

It's a little polarizing but I'm of the mind that *most* intakes won't do a whole lot - at least from a $$/hp perspective - and same with exhaust, however they have other qualities that make them valuable like tuning the sound the way you want, which IMO is an important aspect of enjoying the experience.

I also did a rear mount (love it) and the Acuity shifter. If nothing else, maybe upgrade the shifter bushings at the trans end.

Oh and almost forgot, even before a tune I'd have recommended at least considering a 245/35-20 tire change (Mich PS4S, Firehawk Indy 500, etc...) or a full change to 18s and 265/35 or 255/40, depending on the offset you choose. Those are major "upgrades" over the stock rubber bands which are ok for traction, but can leave one with a bent rim pretty easily and the stock setup is HEAVY, it's very noticeable to switch to a setup that is 7-10 lbs lighter at each corner.

Just my $.02.

Edit - one last thing - "K-Tuned" is actually a performance mod brand. Might be a little confusing as they make DP, exhaust, and stuff like that. You're tuned with KTuner, to be specific. Not trying to be a dick, just in case you weren't aware.
No offense taken with your comment and makes sense. Yeah it gets hot here but not like other states. We will have 15 or so days above 90 in the summer so it's not horrid. I like the look and sound of the air intakes but you are correct that the gains are minimal at best. If PRLs high volume intake is a decent price at launch I might snag one and if I don't like it then just sell it.
I was thinking about a down pipe and exhaust next or an intercooler. I'm just trying to get the best bang for the buck. I'm glad you mentioned about lightweight wheels and tires. I'm not thrilled with the Continentals on the car now and makes sense with less rotating mass so I might look into that. Thanks for your experiences that you shared. It was helpful.

Edit: when you said you did a rear mount. Can you explain this since I am a noob? :)
 
Last edited:

toddrhodes

Senior Member
First Name
Todd
Joined
May 21, 2018
Threads
20
Messages
705
Reaction score
754
Location
Indiana
Vehicle(s)
'18 CTR #16979, '18 Odyssey
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
No offense taken with your comment and makes sense. Yeah it gets hot here but not like other states. We will have 15 or so days above 90 in the summer so it's not horrid. I like the look and sound of the air intakes but you are correct that the gains are minimal at best. If PRLs high volume intake is a decent price at launch I might snag one and if I don't like it then just sell it.
I was thinking about a down pipe and exhaust next or an intercooler. I'm just trying to get the best bang for the buck. I'm glad you mentioned about lightweight wheels and tires. I'm not thrilled with the Continentals on the car now and makes sense with less rotating mass so I might look into that. Thanks for your experiences that you shared. It was helpful.

Edit: when you said you did a rear mount. Can you explain this since I am a noob? :)
My vote, besides wheels/tires which is not a cheap endeavor, would be a downpipe, preferably a ceramic coated one or one with a downpipe blanket and while you're right there, put on the turbo blanket (I try to be as efficient as I can with mods and taking stuff apart) since you have to remove the DP to put on a turbo blanket anyway.

Rear mount = rear motor mount, rear pitch stopper. I went Cusco, but 27Won and HASport also make excellent rear mounts. There are some good threads here about it but understand it will change how your car sounds inside the car. You will hear more rumble and vibration, especially at first. I'm personally ok with that but it's not a mod for everyone.
 


OP
OP
jcp227

jcp227

Senior Member
First Name
Jimmy Mack
Joined
Jul 29, 2018
Threads
16
Messages
250
Reaction score
183
Location
Bethlehem, PA
Vehicle(s)
2018 Honda Civic Type R, 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue (It's even got a rear spoiler)
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
My vote, besides wheels/tires which is not a cheap endeavor, would be a downpipe, preferably a ceramic coated one or one with a downpipe blanket and while you're right there, put on the turbo blanket (I try to be as efficient as I can with mods and taking stuff apart) since you have to remove the DP to put on a turbo blanket anyway.

Rear mount = rear motor mount, rear pitch stopper. I went Cusco, but 27Won and HASport also make excellent rear mounts. There are some good threads here about it but understand it will change how your car sounds inside the car. You will hear more rumble and vibration, especially at first. I'm personally ok with that but it's not a mod for everyone.
That was kind of my thoughts to do FP, DP, turbo blanket and intercooler all at the same time. If it's coming apart I only want it apart except for when I sell. So I'm glad someone else had the same thoughts. It's tough for me since my friends don't live close to me and there not into cars except for them racing dirt midgets. Unfortunately this is my only place to learn and talk shop. However everyone has been good here to me and dosent give this mid life crisis guy a hard time when I ask dumb questions. Lol
Thanks again.
 

toddrhodes

Senior Member
First Name
Todd
Joined
May 21, 2018
Threads
20
Messages
705
Reaction score
754
Location
Indiana
Vehicle(s)
'18 CTR #16979, '18 Odyssey
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
That was kind of my thoughts to do FP, DP, turbo blanket and intercooler all at the same time. If it's coming apart I only want it apart except for when I sell. So I'm glad someone else had the same thoughts. It's tough for me since my friends don't live close to me and there not into cars except for them racing dirt midgets. Unfortunately this is my only place to learn and talk shop. However everyone has been good here to me and dosent give this mid life crisis guy a hard time when I ask dumb questions. Lol
Thanks again.
Yep, you're picking up what I'm putting down. I didn't do the FMIC at the same time, in fact I had a trusted Honda mechanic do the DP and blanket since I've read it can be a pain, and I wanted that piece done right. I did the rear motor mount and the front pipe at the same time, and did the FMIC and a front emblem change at the same time. Good news is you take things apart less often. Bad news is all the projects get condensed into bigger things rather than spreading the love over a few different wrenching sessions. But that's ok, I hardly get time to work on the thing nowadays anyway.
 

toyrocket

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2017
Threads
19
Messages
127
Reaction score
151
Location
ca
Vehicle(s)
2017 CTR, 2016 HR-V, 1995 Toyota Supra TT, 94 K_Del Sol, 94 K20 Turbo EG, 2000 Honda Insight
Country flag
Drive the car. Take it out to the track/autocross. Learn what it can do stock and you’ll appreciate all of the mods there on after.

DP+FP+FMIC would be my next mods, to answer your question. After that, you’ll be spinning tires shifting into 3rd in WOT. IMO, I wouldn’t recommend any intake, at the moment, aside from stock airbox and PRL silicone hose.

Cheers!
 

xGreyWorm

Senior Member
First Name
Alex
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
90
Reaction score
48
Location
Alabama
Vehicle(s)
2017 Honda Civic Type R
Country flag
I did intercooler, intake, and took my ECU out to be jail broken in my endeavor of upgrades first. Running mishimoto intake, PRL intercooler and hondata. Then I installed my acuity shifter upgrades when they came in, highly recommend these. And lastly I did downpipe, frontpipe, catch can, and rear motor mount, running RV6 DP,FP and 27WON rear mount. Love all the mods all high quality parts and workmanship. I did all mods by myself except the downpipe I had a friend help with that and it was needed however everything else are pretty easily one man jobs. Good luck with the mods and biggest thing is to have fun with it man. If you got any questions this forum is one of the best with friendly feedback and people.
 

fiend busa

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2017
Threads
54
Messages
1,380
Reaction score
547
Location
Canada
Vehicle(s)
2018 Civic Type R
Country flag
One thing tunes always seem to do is improve throttle response so even if at that point it's not making more power, a more responsive pedal just makes for a better overall experience.

If memory serves, I picked up 30 whp/30 tq on a mustang dyno, flashing between the "stock" map and Stage 1 on my CTR. Depending on other dynos, that could have been as much as 35-40 difference.

I think you did right getting a tune first. Being that you're in PA so it gets "hot" but not CA/TX/FL "hot," a FMIC can help, but being in IN myself, I did the FMIC last. I did a catted DP (RV6) and drop-in filter/PRL Stage 1 upgrade, along with cooling mods like ceramic coating on the DP, turbo blanket, and reflective tape on the intake pipe.

It's a little polarizing but I'm of the mind that *most* intakes won't do a whole lot - at least from a $$/hp perspective - and same with exhaust, however they have other qualities that make them valuable like tuning the sound the way you want, which IMO is an important aspect of enjoying the experience.

I also did a rear mount (love it) and the Acuity shifter. If nothing else, maybe upgrade the shifter bushings at the trans end.

Oh and almost forgot, even before a tune I'd have recommended at least considering a 245/35-20 tire change (Mich PS4S, Firehawk Indy 500, etc...) or a full change to 18s and 265/35 or 255/40, depending on the offset you choose. Those are major "upgrades" over the stock rubber bands which are ok for traction, but can leave one with a bent rim pretty easily and the stock setup is HEAVY, it's very noticeable to switch to a setup that is 7-10 lbs lighter at each corner.

Just my $.02.

Edit - one last thing - "K-Tuned" is actually a performance mod brand. Might be a little confusing as they make DP, exhaust, and stuff like that. You're tuned with KTuner, to be specific. Not trying to be a dick, just in case you weren't aware.
Do you recommend downsizing to 18s?
Sponsored

 


 


Top