Changed MTF to Amsoil Synchromesh, I am Happy!

whiteboyblackcivic

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I have a 2017 ext manual. Acuity shifter bushings and a mishimoto weighted shift knob. Just clicked over 30k miles. Would you recommend switching out for the Amsoil Synchromesh mtf? Even if it’s not a si?
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amirza786

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Off topic.
How is Amsoil engine oil compared to Honda OE oil? If I order Amsoil MTF, I might as well order the engine oil
BTW. Who makes Honda engine oil?
If I may offer an opinion on this. Amsoil offers some of the best quality lubricants available. Their engine oils are among the best. But they are expensive. As far as engine oils are concerned, Almost all the brands out there, including Amazon basics will protect your engine adequately, as long as they meet API SN or SN plus. Although Amsoil Synchromesh is also expensive, you only need 2 quarts and the change interval is 50K miles...it will probably take me more than 2 years to hit 50K. Now if you do the 1 year oil change as Amsoil says you can do with at least one of their oils, than maybe it is worth it. I currently use Idemitsu ZEPRO Eco Medalist 0w20, which is $28 on Amazon for 5 quarts which is more than half the price of the Amsoil Signature series
 
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I have a 2017 ext manual. Acuity shifter bushings and a mishimoto weighted shift knob. Just clicked over 30k miles. Would you recommend switching out for the Amsoil Synchromesh mtf? Even if it’s not a si?
As long as your transmission uses Synchromesh fluid, I would do it (I believe it does). You can verify if it uses this fluid by going to the Amsoil website and putting in your car details
 

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Im at 25k on the hatch. Ill be using amsoils synchromesh at 30k. Ive had the amsoil 0w20 for 4k now. When should I change it? Ill be running 0w30 or 5w30 next
 

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HI guys, sincere question, not looking to poke the dog!

I find it humorously curious that one thread on the board talks about adding $1,500 brakes, new turbos, computer tuners and so on, and another talks about saving $10 on "better" MT fluid! Again, just an observation - I love this forum and am learning quite a bit. :)

So the question - I don't even have 2k on my SI yet - but would not mind spending a few bucks for a clearly better experience. In this case, MT fluid. If one had the few bucks to spare, would there be a reason to not just do this?

When I get my first oil change, might that be a time to give the shop the bottles of MT fluid and ask them to do it then?
 
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jjtheprince

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HI guys, sincere question, not looking to poke the dog!

I find it humorously curious that one thread on the board talks about adding $1,500 brakes, new turbos, computer tuners and so on, and another talks about saving $10 on "better" MT fluid! Again, just an observation - I love this forum and am learning quite a bit. :)

So the question - I don't even have 2k on my SI yet - but would not mind spending a few bucks for a clearly better experience. In this case, MT fluid. If one had the few bucks to spare, would there be a reason to not just do this?

When I get my first oil change, might that be a time to give the shop the bottles of MT fluid and ask them to do it then?
It's a good idea to upgrade to the Amsoil MTF if you live in an extremely cold climate, I used to run the fluid in my old Mazdaspeed3 and it significantly reduced the notchiness and slow shifting when it was below zero outside. It even helps significantly in warmer weather.
 
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amirza786

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Im at 25k on the hatch. Ill be using amsoils synchromesh at 30k. Ive had the amsoil 0w20 for 4k now. When should I change it? Ill be running 0w30 or 5w30 next
My advice...don't use 0W30 or 5w30, stick with 0W20, especially if your car is under warranty and you want the warranty honored in case something happens. I have corresponded with several engineers, including those from Mobile1, as well as Honda, and they have all told me the same thing...the 1.5L T engine was specifically designed for 0W20.

I can tell you, 0w20 will protect your engine in the most severe usage cases. I have a friend who tracks his FRS regularly, and uses 0w20. Analysis of his oil after driving the car hard for 4 hours in plus 100 degree F showed "zero" signs of breakdown.Also, both my Toyotas (a 2006 Camry SE V6 and 2013 Sienna), both of which have been driven very hard over the years and both have over 100K on them have had zero engine or mechanical issues...both use 0w20.

Im not saying 0w30 will harm your engine, it probably won't, but just keep in mind this engine was specifically designed and tested to use 0w20

One more thing...I would follow the MM in changing your oil, that is your best guide and will save you money as well as help the environment
 
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amirza786

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HI guys, sincere question, not looking to poke the dog!

I find it humorously curious that one thread on the board talks about adding $1,500 brakes, new turbos, computer tuners and so on, and another talks about saving $10 on "better" MT fluid! Again, just an observation - I love this forum and am learning quite a bit. :)

So the question - I don't even have 2k on my SI yet - but would not mind spending a few bucks for a clearly better experience. In this case, MT fluid. If one had the few bucks to spare, would there be a reason to not just do this?

When I get my first oil change, might that be a time to give the shop the bottles of MT fluid and ask them to do it then?
Since changing your MT fluid is really not that big of an expense, I would do it, but I would wait for your next oil change. Plus, Amsoil has a 50K to 150K mile change interval, the OEM is 30K. The last thing is Amsoil MT makes a huge difference in my opinion over the OEM MT. Other than that and dropping in a K&N air filter ($49), that is the only "mods" I have performed on my car
 

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My advice...don't use 0W30 or 5w30, stick with 0W20, especially if your car is under warranty and you want the warranty honored in case something happens. I have corresponded with several engineers, including those from Mobile1, as well as Honda, and they have all told me the same thing...the 1.5L T engine was specifically designed for 0W20.

I can tell you, 0w20 will protect your engine in the most severe usage cases. I have a friend who tracks his FRS regularly, and uses 0w20. Analysis of his oil after driving the car hard for 4 hours in plus 100 degree F showed "zero" signs of breakdown.Also, both my Toyotas (a 2006 Camry SE V6 and 2013 Sienna), both of which have been driven very hard over the years and both have over 100K on them have had zero engine or mechanical issues...both use 0w20.

Im not saying 0w30 will harm your engine, it probably won't, but just keep in mind this engine was specifically designed and tested to use 0w20

One more thing...I would follow the MM in changing your oil, that is your best guide and will save you money as well as help the environment
So many false statements in one post...

1.5T engine is global engine and is used overseas in Civics. Oil specs for those engines is 0w20, 5w30, 10w30. This has been discussed before in a dedicated thread.

Is the friend you're referring to is a youtuber savagegeese? He had a video about tracking FRS with 0w20 oil in. Good friends you have.

Toyotas that you mention in your post above are equipped with NA engine and oil in them is not nearly under stress it is under in 1.5 turbocharged honda engine.

Following MM is an option but performing UOA and seeing actual results is much safer way. There are plenty of the UOAs posted on here and you compare the results with certain oil brands and weights depending on the mileage and make and educated decision.

Of course, you can always rely on brilliant honda engineering. Up to you. But don't start another thick vs thin oil thread and don't spread false information based solely on your feelings.

Cheers
 
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amirza786

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So many false statements in one post...

1.5T engine is global engine and is used overseas in Civics. Oil specs for those engines is 0w20, 5w30, 10w30. This has been discussed before in a dedicated thread.

Is the friend you're referring to is a youtuber savagegeese? He had a video about tracking FRS with 0w20 oil in. Good friends you have.

Toyotas that you mention in your post above are equipped with NA engine and oil in them is not nearly under stress it is under in 1.5 turbocharged honda engine.

Following MM is an option but performing UOA and seeing actual results is much safer way. There are plenty of the UOAs posted on here and you compare the results with certain oil brands and weights depending on the mileage and make and educated decision.

Of course, you can always rely on brilliant honda engineering. Up to you. But don't start another thick vs thin oil thread and don't spread false information based solely on your feelings.

Cheers
No, I wish Savagegeese was a friend of mine! It's a friend out of Southern Cal, he tracks at a place called Buttonwillow in Bakersfield, CA. Yes, I agree that using 0w30 will not harm your engine, I only mention that for warranty purposes, and since Honda told me this directly, I just passed it on. I am specifically speaking about Honda USA and Canada. It's up to all of us as individuals to put in our cars what we feel is best. I only gave a recommendation based on correspondence with Mobil 1, Amsoil and Honda (USA).

One more thing...keep in mind that today's synthetic 0w20 was specifically designed for downsized turbo engines if it meets API SN or SN plus, or DEXOS gen 1 and gen 2
 
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HatchPanda

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So many false statements in one post...

1.5T engine is global engine and is used overseas in Civics. Oil specs for those engines is 0w20, 5w30, 10w30. This has been discussed before in a dedicated thread.

Is the friend you're referring to is a youtuber savagegeese? He had a video about tracking FRS with 0w20 oil in. Good friends you have.

Toyotas that you mention in your post above are equipped with NA engine and oil in them is not nearly under stress it is under in 1.5 turbocharged honda engine.

Following MM is an option but performing UOA and seeing actual results is much safer way. There are plenty of the UOAs posted on here and you compare the results with certain oil brands and weights depending on the mileage and make and educated decision.

Of course, you can always rely on brilliant honda engineering. Up to you. But don't start another thick vs thin oil thread and don't spread false information based solely on your feelings.

Cheers
Thanks for this. So whats the oil change interval for amsoil engine oil. Synchromesh is 50k. What about for the engine?
 
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amirza786

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Thanks for this. So whats the oil change interval for amsoil engine oil. Synchromesh is 50k. What about for the engine?
There normal synthetic is 10k and Signature is 20k
 

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No, I wish Savagegeese was a friend of mine! It's a friend out of Southern Cal, he tracks at a place called Buttonwillow in Bakersfield, CA. Yes, I agree that using 0w30 will not harm your engine, I only mention that for warranty purposes, and since Honda told me this directly, I just passed it on. I am specifically speaking about Honda USA and Canada. It's up to all of us as individuals to put in our cars what we feel is best. I only gave a recommendation based on correspondence with Mobil 1, Amsoil and Honda (USA).

One more thing...keep in mind that today's synthetic 0w20 was specifically designed for downsized turbo engines if it meets API SN or SN plus, or DEXOS gen 1 and gen 2
Another flase statement: 0w20 has nothin to do with turbos. Even more so with Dexos of any generation. Do some research before posting
 

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Thanks for this. So whats the oil change interval for amsoil engine oil. Synchromesh is 50k. What about for the engine?
It really depends. Given the turbo and fairly small sump capacity, this engine in general is pretty hard on oil. Put direct ingection and associated fuel dilution with it on top of it. For my driving pattern of 80 % highways and 50mi a day it appears that with 5w30 Amsoil Ss 7000-8000mi would be fairly safe interval. Not sure what it would be different brand oil. Just start off 5K interval, do UOA and go from there.
 
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Another flase statement: 0w20 has nothin to do with turbos. Even more so with Dexos of any generation. Do some research before posting
You are completely either misreading what I have written or just... never mind. I never said 0w20 is exclusively for turbo engines, other grades also can be used for turbos, what I did say is many brands have designed synthetics, including 0w20 to protect downsized turbo charged engine's. Ever heard of the turbo coking test? Look it up. Mobile 1, Amsoil, Pennzoil and other brands perform this test on 0w20 and other grades as well and certify their oils to protect turbochargers. Now if you stop misrepresenting what I wrote I wouldn't need to keep responding to you. But one thing, I am curious as to why you are so against people using 0w20? Has it offended you in some way? Did you slip on it or did it try to drown you? Enquiring minds want to know
In the end, the companies that produce these oils state in their marketing as well as technical documentation that their 0w20 protects engine's, including those with turbochargers. That's all I have to say, Im kinda done talking about this subject
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