Lurker_J's Burrows ('18 Si Sedan)

[lurker_j]

Dirty engine bay. Need a detail. But the left is zip tied and mounted with the mount they provided to a stock bracket. Driver side I pushed it behind the brake fluid. Doesn’t look like it’s gonna move from there.

Looks good! Did you end up using any of the extension wires to the driver? I kept my front driver in the engine bay. Yours looks hidden

 

[Dirt]

Looks good! Did you end up using any of the extension wires to the driver? I kept my front driver in the engine bay. Yours looks hidden

Yes, I used the extension on all 4. I routed the front into the firewall and still need to mount the driver unit somewhere. I have a connector daisy chaining all the 12v accessory power from Fuse 1 and snaking the rear extension wiring to the driver side front.

 

[Dirt]

When you installed the rear shock did you notice that the top hat was at an angle when fully bolted down. Or in this case up.

 

[lurker_j]

When you installed the rear shock did you notice that the top hat was at an angle when fully bolted down. Or in this case up.

No, not at all. Both rear sides sat straight down. I would try reversing the direction that mount is sitting. I don't remember if there are specific sides or not that the each strut was supposed to go to, but that angle you have is incorrect.

 

[Dirt]

No, not at all. Both rear sides sat straight down. I would try reversing the direction that mount is sitting. I don't remember if there are specific sides or not that the each strut was supposed to go to, but that angle you have is incorrect.

So I took off the shock and retightened the nut. I also turned it so the grommet with the EDFC motor wiring cable is facing toward the wheel but it’s still crooked like this when it’s all bolted down. I don’t see any signs of it being left or right. If you have a chance can you double check yours? I looked everywhere and no one shows the orientation of the top hat once installed so I’m not sure what to do. The motors are running fine and I’m not getting any weird noises when driving.

It sat straight until I bolted it up to the frame and screwed in the bottom bolt. I turned it both ways and both ways are the same.

 

[lurker_j]

So I took off the shock and retightened the nut. I also turned it so the grommet with the EDFC motor wiring cable is facing toward the wheel but it’s still crooked like this when it’s all bolted down. I don’t see any signs of it being left or right. If you have a chance can you double check yours? I looked everywhere and no one shows the orientation of the top hat once installed so I’m not sure what to do. The motors are running fine and I’m not getting any weird noises when driving.

It sat straight until I bolted it up to the frame and screwed in the bottom bolt. I turned it both ways and both ways are the same.

Raised my car and pulled the wheels just for you lol


Both sides sit flat

There is a specific side for each strut (At the end of product ID code "-R" for right, "-L" for left)

The openings for the wire on the top mount face outward away from the car, not toward it.

If your top mounts aren't sitting straight, I would check for damage to the body and threads, as well as make sure the motors inside the top mounts aren't sticking out. I also ran my wires out the side, not the top like others have done.

When I installed my rears, I actually snapped a bolt in the threads while I was putting the bolts back in because the threads on the body came shredded from the factory. I had to retap the bolt holes in the body.

 

[Dirt]

Raised my car and pulled the wheels just for you lol


Both sides sit flat

There is a specific side for each strut (At the end of product ID code "-R" for right, "-L" for left)

The openings for the wire on the top mount face outward away from the car, not toward it.

If your top mounts aren't sitting straight, I would check for damage to the body and threads, as well as make sure the motors inside the top mounts aren't sticking out. I also ran my wires out the side, not the top like others have done.

When I installed my rears, I actually snapped a bolt in the threads while I was putting the bolts back in because the threads on the body came shredded from the factory. I had to retap the bolt holes in the body.

Thanks! So the issue was when I turned the top hat 180 degrees so the slant fits with the body I didnt retighten the nut under the edfc motor. I had to remove the edfc motor and retighten the nut and then place it 180 degrees with the grommet facing toward the wheel and it fit perfectly. My issue was not refitting the nut when turning since it was already bent. (The shock wasnt bent just the top hat which doesn't affect anything)

Thanks for taking a look. Seeing the grommet facing towards the wheel in your pic verified it for me.

 

[lurker_j]

Thanks! So the issue was when I turned the top hat 180 degrees so the slant fits with the body I didnt retighten the nut under the edfc motor. I had to remove the edfc motor and retighten the nut and then place it 180 degrees with the grommet facing toward the wheel and it fit perfectly. My issue was not refitting the nut when turning since it was already bent. (The shock wasnt bent just the top hat which doesn't affect anything)

Thanks for taking a look. Seeing the grommet facing towards the wheel in your pic verified it for me.

Glad it was figured out then!

 

[Dirt]

Glad it was figured out then!

I’m hearing a clicking now at low speeds 5-20mph. I can’t tell where it’s coming from but I sawthe spring fully compressed. Is this like yours?

 

[lurker_j]

If it sounds like it has an air puff to it, that’s the strut at the softest setting releasing pressure to keep it soft.
If it’s straight metal click, esp with turning the wheel at a stop or anytime your dampers have uneven pressure on them, then Your endlink bolts aren’t tight. That would happen to me.

If you tighten the endlink nuts while the suspension is at full droop (hanging) then the nuts will loosen when the car is back on the ground due to the full weight of the car now adding force to the sway bar and endlinks.

You can super tighten the bolts while the suspension is dropped, but eventually vibrations and the car weight will loosen them back again.
If you tighten the endlink nuts while the suspension is at full droop (hanging) then the nuts will loosen when the car is back on the ground due to the full weight of the car now adding force to the sway bar and endlinks.

The only way to tighten them fully is to simulate the weight of the car on the sway bar and links.Find a way to tighten the nuts with the car on the ground or simulate it by having the car on jacks and use a jack to lift up the wheel knuckle and tighten the nut. You can also put some blue loctite on the threads so it will hold better after it cures.

Make sure you the tighten the endlink bolts when the sway bar is even or knuckles lifted to the same level so that you don’t have preload on the sway bar pushing it one way more than the other. This applies more to the front sway bar and endlinks than the rear since the sway bar is hooked directly to the struts in the front.

 

[lurker_j]

Btw, my OEM endlinks were shot after being lowered on them for both springs then coils. So if you do all the stuff mentioned above and your endlink heads move around really easy, you’ll probably have to get new front endlinks if that’s where they are loosening nuts.

 

[lurker_j]

Other thing I would check is o make sure al the struts and their bolts are mounted tight. Could have forgot to tighten them all the way and a strut isn’t always sitting right up against the body when you go over bumps

 

[Dirt]

Other thing I would check is o make sure al the struts and their bolts are mounted tight. Could have forgot to tighten them all the way and a strut isn’t always sitting right up against the body when you go over bumps

The sounds coming from the rear. It doesn’t happen over bumps or anything just regular driving going straight sometimes at turns on low speeds. I’m going to take off my wheel and check tomorrow. I’ll post what I find but I noticed that the spring is kinda leaning if you can tell from the photo. I’m wondering if the metal clinking at low speeds is the spring on the left side is touching.

 

[Dirt]

The sounds coming from the rear. It doesn’t happen over bumps or anything just regular driving going straight sometimes at turns on low speeds. I’m going to take off my wheel and check tomorrow. I’ll post what I find but I noticed that the spring is kinda leaning if you can tell from the photo. I’m wondering if the metal clinking at low speeds is the spring on the left side is touching.

here are some more pics I took just looking from under the rear of the car just now.

 

[lurker_j]

here are some more pics I took just looking from under the rear of the car just now.

Are the two” feet” of the rubber boot under the spring in their holes in the lower control arm?

Also check the endlinks of the rear sway.