I've upgraded to 5/30 oil...

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DarkLight

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HTO (heat transfer oil) spec, designed by Honda and XOM. Steve, your N/A 2.0 is probably fine with any 5/30 if you look at that link and the first .pdf XOM explains the benefits of 0/20 but stops short of comparing it to a HTO spec because 0/20 gives up protection for increased efficiency of 1.5% so there you have it directly from the mfg. Oil like tires is all about trade-offs.
You seriously need to stop giving people bad advice. You have no idea what you are talking about, and every post you have made has merely been about validating your own opinion rather than facilitating useful discussion.

The reason why a 0W-20 is the spec is because the oil pump is overdriven by the crankshaft at 1.6 times the engine speed. This is done to allow the VTEC/VTC mechanisms to operate with a sufficient amount of oil pressure, since the oil passages are small, with some being only 0.05 inches in diameter.

Bottom line: Using a heavier weight oil will increase the risk of cavitation! Especially with dual VTC and VTEC.

Personally I don't care what you put in your 1.5, however, nothing but 0W-20 should ever be used in the new K20!
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DarkLight

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BTW: that 5/30 HTO spec has not been superseded and I suspect the R will carry that spec as well.
That engine is already used in the UKDM FK2 CTR and, surprise, it uses 0W-20!
 

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That engine is already used in the UKDM FK2 CTR and, surprise, it uses 0W-20!
I gave up several pages ago when I realized he had 0 intention of backing up his claims. I think there's enough logic in this thread to deter most sensible members from making ill informed decisions.
 

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Wow, so OP goes to the oil forum to get advice. Ignores some of the most intelligent people on the subject. Then posts the opposite of their advice over here? What are we missing here? :dunno:


I think this member said it best:


jayg said:
Because you're 9 years and 1200 posts in on this board and still don't know better than being unreasonably afraid of a 0w20 causing accelerated wear when we have years and millions example showing the contrary. With some of the questions you've been asking, I'm hoping most of those posts are not offering advice.

You don't want to be convinced that the factory got it right on this one and want a bunch of people to jump in here and agree with you, that's pretty clear.

Running a 40wt will do nothing in that motor but waste fuel and satisfy your misinformed notions on what's going on inside the engine. You will be absolutely protected with 0w20 for your usage. You don't have severe use. You just drive it on the highway slightly more than the average consumer.
 
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Design

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Also, a little history on HTO-06. The standard was developed jointly by Honda and Mobile to meet the extreme operating temps in the RDX while keeping viscosity relatively thin. Since then, oil standards have evolved to include the HTO-06 standard (among others) in most mainstream oils.

This member's explanation supports why using the proper grade oil is critical in turbocharged applications.

doodfood said:
turbocharger lifespan is not the only important factor for the RDX. There are a few other things as well:


- The turbo has to spool as quickly as possible. That requires a thin oil to reduce drag.

- Again to facilitate quick spooling, the turbo has to be close to the engine. That increases temperatures.

- Turbo temps are also increased by the high EGTs, which are necessary for emissions reasons.

- Oil helps cool the turbo, and thin oil cools more effectively.

- Honda engines in general wear very well no matter what oil you put in them.


That's why viscosity (including HTHS) can't be too high, wear control just has to be decent, and coking protection is supremely important.
 

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This is from the manual of the Thai made civic. Apparently the civic do accept quite a range of grade.
Honda Civic 10th gen I've upgraded to 5/30 oil... DSC_0911
 
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dblshock

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This is from the manual of the Thai made civic. Apparently the civic do accept quite a range of grade.
Honda Civic 10th gen I've upgraded to 5/30 oil... DSC_0911

That being said, and thank you, heavier oils will protect better at the cost of fractional fuel mileage, we can all agree finally.
 

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This is from the manual of the Thai made civic. Apparently the civic do accept quite a range of grade.
Honda Civic 10th gen I've upgraded to 5/30 oil... DSC_0911
WE DON'T BLOODY LIVE IN SOUTH AFRICA
 


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dblshock

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the difference between S.Africa and North America is CAFE..I'm aboslutely going 5/30 winter and 10/30 or 5/40 summer now that the 'tiny oil passages' fantasy has been debunked.
 

NorthernEX-T

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Ok cool theory. Why not go 0w30 in winter then?
 
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dblshock

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If I choose to drive hard, and I do occasionally.. I don't want to pay the penalty of heavy engine wear to save 1.5% on a good day.
 
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dblshock

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yesterday afternoon I drove back to Milwaukee from the U.P. 234mi. at speeds 75-85mph. and the computer read 43.5 mpg. that reading is not from an engine under 5/30 duress. (Disclosure: E0 91 fuel oiled 640:1 TCW-3, rear wind 5mph., temp 50F)
 

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the difference between S.Africa and North America is CAFE..I'm aboslutely going 5/30 winter and 10/30 or 5/40 summer now that the 'tiny oil passages' fantasy has been debunked.
I think your antics on the "other" forum speak for themselves. So lets just agree to to disagree until you come back with 10-20K worth of UOAs.

This is from the manual of the Thai made civic. Apparently the civic do accept quite a range of grade.
Honda Civic 10th gen I've upgraded to 5/30 oil... DSC_0911
On topic, Mediterranean climates don't really apply to North America or Canada. If you have winters colder than 40*, my stance on the subject would remain unphased.

Regardless, thanks for sharing. :cool:
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