Snoopyslr
Senior Member
- First Name
- John
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2016
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- Location
- Fenton, Michigan
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- 2016 Honda Civic EX-T, 2016 Ford F-150, 2003 Subaru Impreza WRX
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- #1
Ok, install is all done and I'm pretty happy with it. I'll post some pics of my light output when it gets dark tonight, but I think they look about the same as halogen as far as dispersal of light goes.
*Disclaimer* This is not a complete step-by-step guide to install your HID kit. I created this with the intent of showing the best way and how easy it is to protect your OEM wiring harness. If you have questions about this install based on this post, you probably lack some fundamental knowledge of 12v accessories. I am not responsible for anything you experience during your own install.
Ok, what you will need to do a safe and clean install are the following
- 4-pin relay
- inline fuse holder
- 4/5 pin relay socket
- Electrical Tape or Wiring Heat Shrink
- 10mm and 8mm socket
- Wire cutters
- Plyers
- Test light or multi-meter (if you want to find different power and ground points than I used)
This is a relay. There is nothing fancy about a 4 pin relay. The simplest way I can describe a relay is an electronic switch. You supply + and - to 85 and 86. This activates the internal solenoid that then connects 30 to 87.
In our application, we will hook up the OEM headlight plug to 85 and 86. This will activate the switch inside the relay and connect 30(which will be direct battery power source) to 87 (the + on the HID kit).
With this setup the relay can pull all the power it needs with no danger to the factory wiring.
Here is the socket for our 4 pin relay. Most sockets will work for a 4 and 5 pin relay. Remove the center wire from the socket and discard.
The inline fuse holder is very important. The factory fuse for the headlights will now only be controlling the relay. A new fuse must be added to the HID kit. I used a 15amp Fuse.
This is the adapter that came with my H11 HID kit. The red and black wires go into this adapter and then it plugs into the factory head light socket. This will supply power to your ballast.
Remove the braiding by carefully cutting along the heat shrink with a knife or razor. Then we will split this harness into two halves.
Follow this diagram for your wiring. It's very simple, refer to the below picture for my finished harness to see each piece.
Use your test light to find power and ground. I used the feed terminals on the fuse box for positive
and the mount for the fuse box for negative.
For the passenger side, ground your HID ballast to the chassis the same as the driver side. For the positive, run at least a 14ga wire from the positive(red) wire on the ballast over to the +(red) wire on the other ballast. I ran mine under the plastic cover between the core support and the front fascia. I have it un-tucked to show where it's going. It hides very nicely through the core support.
All done! Night shots to follow!
*Disclaimer* This is not a complete step-by-step guide to install your HID kit. I created this with the intent of showing the best way and how easy it is to protect your OEM wiring harness. If you have questions about this install based on this post, you probably lack some fundamental knowledge of 12v accessories. I am not responsible for anything you experience during your own install.
Ok, what you will need to do a safe and clean install are the following
- 4-pin relay
- inline fuse holder
- 4/5 pin relay socket
- Electrical Tape or Wiring Heat Shrink
- 10mm and 8mm socket
- Wire cutters
- Plyers
- Test light or multi-meter (if you want to find different power and ground points than I used)
This is a relay. There is nothing fancy about a 4 pin relay. The simplest way I can describe a relay is an electronic switch. You supply + and - to 85 and 86. This activates the internal solenoid that then connects 30 to 87.
In our application, we will hook up the OEM headlight plug to 85 and 86. This will activate the switch inside the relay and connect 30(which will be direct battery power source) to 87 (the + on the HID kit).
With this setup the relay can pull all the power it needs with no danger to the factory wiring.
Here is the socket for our 4 pin relay. Most sockets will work for a 4 and 5 pin relay. Remove the center wire from the socket and discard.
The inline fuse holder is very important. The factory fuse for the headlights will now only be controlling the relay. A new fuse must be added to the HID kit. I used a 15amp Fuse.
This is the adapter that came with my H11 HID kit. The red and black wires go into this adapter and then it plugs into the factory head light socket. This will supply power to your ballast.
Remove the braiding by carefully cutting along the heat shrink with a knife or razor. Then we will split this harness into two halves.
Follow this diagram for your wiring. It's very simple, refer to the below picture for my finished harness to see each piece.
Use your test light to find power and ground. I used the feed terminals on the fuse box for positive
and the mount for the fuse box for negative.
For the passenger side, ground your HID ballast to the chassis the same as the driver side. For the positive, run at least a 14ga wire from the positive(red) wire on the ballast over to the +(red) wire on the other ballast. I ran mine under the plastic cover between the core support and the front fascia. I have it un-tucked to show where it's going. It hides very nicely through the core support.
All done! Night shots to follow!
Last edited:
Oh well I guess. I was really impressed with the quality of the harness, and I'm assuming the rest of their HID kit is of the same quality. Thanks again for taking those pics!
