It seems that Amsoil may know a thing or two about motor oil as well. Their oil is loaded with calcium and they are claiming 100% protection against LSPI in turbo direct injection engines.My first OC was at 5800 miles but man, I'm hoping I didn't go too long cause the MMS was saying it was already at 40% at around 3500 to 4000 miles. i reset the MMS by accident a few times but planned on leaving FF in until 5500 miles anyway cause that's what I did to the Accord when I got it.(wish it was a 2018 Accord, lol) Scared of those metal shavings but glad the assembly lube got a excellent chance of doing its jobs seating things internally. That's why you leave it in is to seat engine parts like valve guides, not the moly, but the additives. keebler elves made the formula.
the Honda oil I noticed doesn't have the calcium or is low in CA, which is good for turbo engines.
2018 hatchback purchased 9/16 with 4 miles now have 1300.How long did it take you to put that much miles up ? That's a lot.
I got mine mid Feb, so a little over 7 months and I'm getting close to 11,000.2018 hatchback purchased 9/16 with 4 miles now have 1300.
Ever try to do a lease with way higher miles? It can get REAL expensive. I drive about 30k a year and am still trying to figure out the benefit of leasing vs. buying. Tax wise leasing is better. But only till a point if you buy miles at $.20/mile over the standard 15k/year. Which is a common price with dealers.That's a lot of miles. If I were putting that kind of miles on a car annually, I'd just lease. There's no point buying then totally trashing the value in one year.
How does the leasing work with insurance vs owning ? My issue with owning is the value immediately plummets and long-term the maintenance costs is 100% on you. Plus you have maintenance costs which someone mentioned earlier. I think higher mileage (15,000-25,000 miles/year) owning makes sense, but 50,000/miles+ in one year is pretty crazy. You already blow out your mfg warranty for 36,000 miles and less than 2 yrs your powertrain. You'd need to factor in an extended warranty if that's the case. I wouldn't feel comfortable putting that kind of mileage in a year without one.Ever try to do a lease with way higher miles? It can get REAL expensive. I drive about 30k a year and am still trying to figure out the benefit of leasing vs. buying. Tax wise leasing is better. But only till a point if you buy miles at $.20/mile over the standard 15k/year. Which is a common price with dealers.
My elderly parents have nurses that come in weekly and drive 50k plus a year for their job. They all buy instead of lease and then just get new every 2 years and eat the depreciation. Or write it off. I assume they know what's best as they all drive crazy miles.
Leasing has it's place. But for a lot of miles, unless you can buy upfront miles at a low price point, it gets crazy expensive.
I'm just trying to figure out this for my situation now so not sure. I believe insurance on the car will rise if you lease. But again for someone using it for business purposes, that's probably another write off so helps a smidge with the costs. I'm with USAA so I'll be asking them soon.How does the leasing work with insurance vs owning ? My issue with owning is the value immediately plummets and long-term the maintenance costs is 100% on you. Plus you have maintenance costs which someone mentioned earlier. I think higher mileage (15,000-25,000 miles/year) owning makes sense, but 50,000/miles+ in one year is pretty crazy. You already blow out your mfg warranty for 36,000 miles and less than 2 yrs your powertrain. You'd need to factor in an extended warranty if that's the case. I wouldn't feel comfortable putting that kind of mileage in a year without one.
I have a friend who does about 45,000-50,000+ in a year. Every year before he begins (and his coworkers he travels with) lease a new year for the year. Then return and start over again the following year.
I'm just trying to figure out this for my situation now so not sure. I believe insurance on the car will rise if you lease. But again for someone using it for business purposes, that's probably another write off so helps a smidge with the costs. I'm with USAA so I'll be asking them soon.
Yes once you go over the standard 36k warranty if you lease and drive well over the warranty miles, you'll be in deep with any mechanical issues. Then an extended warranty may be needed.
Curious, you have friends that drive 45k-50k in a year. How do they handle their leases? Do they buy miles up front? Or do they just eat the $.20-.$25 per mile over? They may get a stipend from their company that makes up for the overages. A lot of companies do this for their employees. I'm a small business on my own so don't have that luxury. I'd be interested on how they handle their 45k-50k leases a year and how they pay for their extra miles.
I have a friend that drives 80k-100k a year for sales around the country and wouldn't even bother with leasing. He just dumps the car off in a trade every year and gets a new one. He always goes with Hyundai's as they have huge rebates. Very rare situation though.