Hondata R&D finds limit of Civic CVT

[HondaPro]

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[Ronboworld]

So with that said, if I just had the +6psi and get it tuned, will the cvt be ok for 100,000+ miles of daily commute driving? Sorry I don't race but I do like the extra boost if I need to pass someone in the freeway.

 

[HondaPro]

Crickets....

So with that said, if I just had the +6psi and get it tuned, will the cvt be ok for 100,000+ miles of daily commute driving? Sorry I don't race but I do like the extra boost if I need to pass someone in the freeway.

 

[kshawn]

So with that said, if I just had the +6psi and get it tuned, will the cvt be ok for 100,000+ miles of daily commute driving? Sorry I don't race but I do like the extra boost if I need to pass someone in the freeway.

I'm at 20,000. No issues

 

[IronFusion]

would swapping the CVT fluid help? amsoil makes synthetic fluid they claim enhances belt grip against the sheaves, and was lab and bench tested to show better wear vs stock fluids.

 

[kshawn]

would swapping the CVT fluid help? amsoil makes synthetic fluid they claim enhances belt grip against the sheaves, and was lab and bench tested to show better wear vs stock fluids.

I'd be interested to know this as well

 

[IronFusion]

I'd be interested to know this as well

Bump.
Also, does anyone have instructions for doing a drain and change on the CVT?

 

[Manual]

... my opinion ,..

Both of these tranny's (6mt or CVT) aren't all that heavy duty or proven. But...

If the CVT has a problem it's basically remove and replace the whole unit .. so I'm guessing (only guessing) that's going to be $4,000+ by the time you get the labor in.

At least with the 6MT you can replace the broken parts (and utilize an independent shop). ... So maybe you could get out for under $2,000(?) with a typical repair ..?

 

[jcadams5]

Finding a MT is not all that easy, and for that reason I ended up with a 2.0 CVT. Been looking all over and have not seen this question asked or answered. Is there a possibility of the CVT from the L15B7 (1.5T) mating up with the K20C1 (2.0 NA) engine?

I plan on doing adding some power, but like everyone else I do not want to destroy my transmission as this is my daily driver.

 

[hondanoob87]

This is simply education, a core guiding factor since the foundation our company. We have been asked many times when you are going to increase the limits. This is to explain what happens and why when you do. We test harder than anyone (except Honda)

have you guys tuned with this yet? on top of what you have done the mishimoto and ingen parts
http://prlmotorsports.com/civicxdownpipefrontpipe.aspx#.WOO9xvkrKUl

 

[SilverGhost]

have you guys tuned with this yet? on top of what you have done the mishimoto and ingen parts
http://prlmotorsports.com/civicxdownpipefrontpipe.aspx#.WOO9xvkrKUl

VitViper did on his 6sp.The catless downpipe Atleast.

 

[IronFusion]

Okay... So, the thing I cannot wrap my head around is the lag on this car. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems the general consensus is that (for the turbo models with CVT) the 'lag' centers around the transmission. We have a tiny turbo that readily spools, so when you put the gas pedal to the floor the engine is picking up RPMs and there is a delay in seeing it translated to acceleration. Fine. The thing I don't get is WHY.
And that WHY, for me, is barring the case that this car has a sub-par transmission and control system that Honda dropped the ball on. My reason for disbarring that case is that I've assumed (read as "rationalized") that Honda would implement a system that is bias toward efficiency bands over power/performance bands, and/or take conservative gearing or application of available torque to ebb on the side of reliability. But the more I think about it, the less I understand the rationale: If the engine keeps revving; which I can't vouch for- I am mindful of the road and not gauges, in eager anticipation of ponies trotting out of the 1.5L-wide gate; without translating that movement through the transmission... How is that any different than the shock of a sudden load on the transmission when trying to launch by braking or dropping into gear from neutral?
The only guess I have is that it may be obnoxiously conservative toward reliability, and the response to sudden WOT is to orient the sheaves in the CVT to the worst gear ratio available in an attempt to keep the belt in steady-ish motion (avoid slip) and tear away acceleration control from the throttle to the CVT. Imagine a bicycle, if you suddenly drop to 1,1 on a 21-speed it feels like you popped the chain until you start translating that fast gerbil-on-a-wheel speed on the pedals back through higher gears.

 

[ichii]

Bump.
Also, does anyone have instructions for doing a drain and change on the CVT?

I know with my Crz, there's a separate cover on the driver side under the car just for the CVT transmission fluid. I haven't been under the Civic often enough to take notice. Also what I did was drain it and take note of how much drained then fill up by how many quarts drained. I know that's not a complete flush because there is still some oil left in the transmission. I poured the new oil where the transmission dipstick is located with a long funnel. Hope that helps.

 

[planedoc]

Not what he is saying quicksipper. He means a combination of launching events/"YouTube star videos" of fast shifting that destroy manual transmissions.

If you try to beat the synchros to the next gear, it ain't gonna last. Nothing will. Bang shifting breaks manual trannys. Some faster than others sure. But will eventually ruin any of them. Shift slowly enough for the synchros to smoothly mesh and I doubt you will have problems.

 

[Browncoat3000]

Okay... So, the thing I cannot wrap my head around is the lag on this car. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems the general consensus is that (for the turbo models with CVT) the 'lag' centers around the transmission. We have a tiny turbo that readily spools, so when you put the gas pedal to the floor the engine is picking up RPMs and there is a delay in seeing it translated to acceleration. Fine. The thing I don't get is WHY.
r gears.

I've noticed that the '17 hatches I've driven don't seem to have as much lag. This indicates to me that the issue is software driven. I've asked if there is a way to get my '16 CVT updated to the '17 software, but the service guy looks at me like I've grown a second head.

I do note that S-mode does seem to reduce the lag.

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