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engine isnt making factory boost level

Discussion in 'Engine / Exhaust / Transmission / Tuning' started by dc2turbo, Oct 10, 2016.




  1. kshawn

    kshawn Senior Member

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    Watch this be another VW scandal haha
     
  2. 17siturb0 Senior Member

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    Honda wouldn't do something that stupid. VW screwed themselves bad on that one.
     
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  3. Syntek

    Syntek Senior Member

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    Reporting back. Did 3 runs last night near Mt. Wilson, my usual canyon run route. Outside temp varied from 55F to 45F degrees outside. (Higher I went up, lower temp dropped)

    -First run was with the K&N intake already installed and I was hitting max boost up until 30-40mph then it went down to the 2nd/3rd bar on WOT, though as I went up higher near the end of the run, I noticed I'd hit max boost again.

    -Second run with the stock intake on, didn't hit max boost at all on WOT even before 30-40mph, but again, once I got up to the same spot as before, I started hitting max boost.

    -Third run with K&N again, didn't hit max boost at all this time up until I reached near the certain point of the run again.

    Interesting what I'm finding. Maybe elevation has something to do with it and air density? Regardless, if your guy's datalog is saying you're hitting the proper boost vs what's being requested, then I guess I don't mind it. Slightly annoying that the stock boost meter isn't maxing out on WOT but maybe thats my OCD talking.

    For Reference: Right near where I merge with the 2 is where I noticed I started hitting max boost.

    2570b723-326d-4174-af3c-024492652325.jpg
     
  4. 17siturb0 Senior Member

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    I'm sorry to hear that. That's some odd behavior, are you completely disconnecting the battery when taking apart the intake? I would take both terminals off for 10 minutes+ and make sure there are no leaks when reinstalling. Most common right up by the throttle body. Do you hear any sounds like a leak when you hit the throttle? Most noticeable at wot from slow speeds. If none of this is the problem then I would slap the Oem box in and drive for awhile and then go get it checked out. Just tell them everything, *expect the new intake part* intakes can mess cars up if not tuned, but I doubt the intake is the fault of the issue. I have friends with the Injen intake and they are making full boost and no problems.
     
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  5. JS2000

    JS2000 Senior Member

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    My thinking is that mods like intake will show a short term gain, but once the ecu adjusts for the extra air flow or air flow changes it might negate the gains. That is just my theory I don't have any info to prove it on this car, but I have experienced that on past turbocharged cars, where the ecu's are getting too smart for our own good, lol. As noted above you need to be tuned for the intake to make it worthwhile and I think that is part of what I'm saying. Sounds plausible to me.
     
  6. OP

    dc2turbo Senior Member

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    It's not the intake 100% sure. i tested that out months ago and it still reduced my boost. Something is programed in the ecu to reduce the boost but im not sure what it is. I do know that when knock control settles down below 75%. It starts reducing the boost for some reason. KTuner said he found a workaround it with his reflash
     
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  7. Syntek

    Syntek Senior Member

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    On my way to work today I was hitting max boost with K&N still installed. Lol. At this rate I might just get that flashpro or ktuner sooner than I thought, especially if there's a workaround
     
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  8. 17siturb0 Senior Member

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    Flashpro all the way man, you will not regret it. That's gonna be my first performance part when I get the new Si.
     
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  9. Hondata

    Hondata Hondata Elite Sponsor

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    The stock ECU has a PA sensor that reduces boost as it senses a gain in altitude. This can be tuned with FlashPro.

    The 10th gen Civic engine control is torque based. Throttle pedal position indicates torque request. Torque is generated by altering:
    • Ignition timing
    • Wastegate position (boost)
    • Throttle plate angle

    There are times where less boost with more ignition timing will make more torque and power than more boost with less ignition timing. So, don't get too hung up on the boost level.
     
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  10. stak Senior Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2016
  11. OP

    dc2turbo Senior Member

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    That video doesn't really show us anything. Did you have a problem like us on factory map? a pull that is a few second longer would be a better setup
     
  12. stak Senior Member

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    okay I'll take it down then. good luck with your problem.
     
  13. OP

    dc2turbo Senior Member

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    You didnt have to take it down, I was just stating that a very limited users seem to have the problem on a factory map. If you didnt have the problem then of course a relfash will make more boost than factory spec. I was maxing out at 9-10psi sometimes. I had KTuner reflash on my car and it reduced boost back to factory specs. this was when it first came out to public but since then he recently told me that he had fixed the problem with a work around in the software.

    Anyways I'm currently on FlashPro and it's been working good for me
     
  14. CEXT

    CEXT Senior Member

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    i'm 3 to 4 bars from the top now. It used to be 1 bar from the top when the car was new. Definitely feels slower than before.
     
  15. nukeguy

    nukeguy Member

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    I noticed a similar lack in performance recently, and checked my boost levels after seeing this thread. They were 2-3 bars from max, where I saw full bars when I initially bought the car.

    I fully deactivated the vsc and traction control and am seeing full bars on the boost gauge at WOT.
    There's a thread with instructions on how to fully deactivate vsc.

    If the car notices you're going to lose traction, it will limit the power the engine produces, which I'm assuming leads to the lower boost levels. The only problem is you have to deactivate vsc ever time you start the car.
     
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