derbo904
Keeper of Blinky lights
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2016
- Threads
- 18
- Messages
- 610
- Reaction score
- 330
- Location
- Bay Area, CA
- Vehicle(s)
- 17 FK7 | 11 E90M3
- Thread starter
- #1
# DIY Si/CTR Rear Bar installation
This DIY is for those who wish to do a Si/CTR Rear stabilizer bar on a non-Si/CTR Civic.
Fitment has been confirmed on Coupes/Sedans/Hatches in the previous thread here: http://www.civicx.com/attachments/img_0036-png.40995/
##Disclaimer
This DIY is merely a reference guide for you from my experiences on my own personal car. Please follow this guide at your own risk. I am not responsible for any issues performed on your own car. Please also read through all of the guide before tackling it to ensure you know to expect.
##Bar diameters
16.5mm Civic Sedan/Hatch/Coupe
17.0mm Civic Sedan Touring
18.0mm Civic Si
20.5mm Civic Type R
##Boring Math
Boring math will tell you its not a linear increase when changing the diameter of a sway bar. It is up to you if you think 133% stiffer is necessary.
(new O.D. sway bar ^4th power) divided by ( old O.D. sway bar ^ 4th power) then subtract 1 and multiple by 100 gets you the percentage.
17 --> 18 will be 26% stiffer.
(18^4/17^4-1)*100
17 --> 21 is massive 133% stiffer.
(21^4/17^4-1)*100
http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Update BL-281.pdf
## Parts Diagram for Reference
## Parts List:
Option 1 (CTR Bar)
Part No: 52300-TGH-A03 Required: 1
Part No: 52308-TGH-A00 Required: 2
Price: ~$varies (YMMV depending on location and where you buy it from)
Option 2 (Si Bar)
Part No: 52300-TBJ-A01 Required: 1
Reused the stock D Brackets from the stock bar.
Optional Parts (Accord Aluminum Endlinks) <--referenced here: https://www.civicx.com/threads/ctr-rear-sway-bar-installed-additional-info-for-you-guys.24961/
Part No: 52320-TLB-A0 Required: 2
## Tools:
2 Jackstands
1 Hydrualic Jack
12mm Socket + short extension or a Deep Socket 12mm
14mm wrench
14mm Short socket + Universal socket and extension
5mm Hex bit or 5mm Hex key
Ramps (optional for easier time to jack up)
## Torque Specs
#19 D brackets 28 ft/lbs
#16 Endlink nut 38 ft/lbs
#18 Endlink bolt 28 ft/lbs
## Install Time:
under 60 minutes
## Directions:
### Remove Original Bar
Raise the rear of the vehicle so that the rear wheels are off the ground
Undo the Endlink 12mm bolt on each side
Undo the D bracket 2x 12mm bolts on each side
Remove the D brackets to allow easier removal of the stabilizer bar
Once removed, insert 5mm allen wrench and 14mm box wrench to undo the endlink nut
Save the endlinks for the new bar
### Install new CTR Bar
Weave the CTR stabilizer bar into place
Attach the endlinks to the lower control arm and hand tighten the bottom endlink bolt.
Slide the endlink stud through the stabilizer bar and hand tighten the endlink nut on the bar
Attach the D brackets to the stabilizer bar and bolt the D brackets to the frame
Torque the D brackets to 28ft/lbs
Torque the Endlink bolt to 28ft/lbs
Torque the Endlink nut to 38ft/lbs
Double-check all bolts
Lower vehicle and test drive with some left to right sharp movements to induce lateral weight transfer
Go up driveways at an angle to verify no binding
Enjoy!
##Troubleshooting
### D bracket does not full lie flat on subframe during CTR bar install
Due to the bonded bushing, it may not 100% line up flat. I insert the lower D bracket bolts on both side and tighten until almost torqued. This moved the D bracket into place and allowed myself a small enough gap to thread in the top D bracket bolts.
### Clunking going up the driveway/lateral weight transfers
Double check the endlink nut torque! It may need to be tighter and require the hex key and a box wrench to tighten further. I had this problem myself and fixed it by tightening the endlink when it was loaded on the ground.
### Endlink to Sway bar nut is STUCK
Loosen the endlink nut while it is on the car still to save some energy unbolting it when it is off.
##Pictures
Top one is CTR, Bottom is Hatch EX
## Initial Impressions
The larger rear bar improved initial turn-in and reduced the amount of input required to make the car rotate. Stability under mid to high-speed corner has also improved. The rear no longer gets upset under minor bumps and imperfections in the road during mid-corner. For the price, this is an amazing upgrade!
## Long-term Impressions for my commuter
As mentioned in the latter posts of this thread, there is a large increase in stiffness in the rear with the CTR that will promote more oversteer. In an emergency avoidance maneuver, it is possible to create an oversteer situation that would be higher risk than factory intended. Some may prefer the dartiness of the new found steering. I find it a little too much for the soft non-Si/CTR spring rates for myself. I think I will change to an Si Bar.
###Edit: 2018-06-02
The extra increase in oversteer is a bit much for me as I mention a few months ago and I don't really need it when I'm in traffic which is about 90% of my drive. I ended up removing it and returning it back to stock. It is a still great upgrade but be sure to test the limits of the car in a safe environment so you as a driver understand how the car will react with the 138% stiffer rear bar. I personally don't need it for my car.
####Edit: 2018-06-13
After a little over a week of driving stock again, I noticed the steering input has vastly increased due to the lack of rear bar now. The car has a larger tendency to understeer. It made the car a little more dull but more managable for a daily commuter. I still think this is a great mod when you pair it with better shocks/suspension to compliment it.
##Changelog
2017-09-06 v1.0 original post
2017-09-07 v1.1 updated the instructions, pictures, torque spec
2017-09-08 v1.2 Added Bar Diameters, Troubleshooting section, reference thread, edits to directions, disclaimer.
2017-10-11 v1.21 Added suggestion about endlink nut being hard to remove when off - Thanks SuXlife!
2018-01-06 v1.3 Added jackstands/hydraulic to the list of tools.
2018-04-24 v1.4 Added that Si bar part number, Long Term impressions, updated TL;DR.
2018-06-02 v1.5 Final Impressions as I remove it to be stock again.
2018-06-13 v1.51 Added Accord aluminun endlinks part number for those who wish to upgrade. Updated final impressions.
2018-07-13 v1.61 Added math and stiffness chart from Whiteline
This DIY is for those who wish to do a Si/CTR Rear stabilizer bar on a non-Si/CTR Civic.
Fitment has been confirmed on Coupes/Sedans/Hatches in the previous thread here: http://www.civicx.com/attachments/img_0036-png.40995/
##Disclaimer
This DIY is merely a reference guide for you from my experiences on my own personal car. Please follow this guide at your own risk. I am not responsible for any issues performed on your own car. Please also read through all of the guide before tackling it to ensure you know to expect.
##Bar diameters
16.5mm Civic Sedan/Hatch/Coupe
17.0mm Civic Sedan Touring
18.0mm Civic Si
20.5mm Civic Type R
##Boring Math
Boring math will tell you its not a linear increase when changing the diameter of a sway bar. It is up to you if you think 133% stiffer is necessary.
(new O.D. sway bar ^4th power) divided by ( old O.D. sway bar ^ 4th power) then subtract 1 and multiple by 100 gets you the percentage.
17 --> 18 will be 26% stiffer.
(18^4/17^4-1)*100
17 --> 21 is massive 133% stiffer.
(21^4/17^4-1)*100
http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Update BL-281.pdf
## Parts Diagram for Reference
## Parts List:
Option 1 (CTR Bar)
Part No: 52300-TGH-A03 Required: 1
Part No: 52308-TGH-A00 Required: 2
Price: ~$varies (YMMV depending on location and where you buy it from)
Option 2 (Si Bar)
Part No: 52300-TBJ-A01 Required: 1
Reused the stock D Brackets from the stock bar.
Optional Parts (Accord Aluminum Endlinks) <--referenced here: https://www.civicx.com/threads/ctr-rear-sway-bar-installed-additional-info-for-you-guys.24961/
Part No: 52320-TLB-A0 Required: 2
## Tools:
2 Jackstands
1 Hydrualic Jack
12mm Socket + short extension or a Deep Socket 12mm
14mm wrench
14mm Short socket + Universal socket and extension
5mm Hex bit or 5mm Hex key
Ramps (optional for easier time to jack up)
## Torque Specs
#19 D brackets 28 ft/lbs
#16 Endlink nut 38 ft/lbs
#18 Endlink bolt 28 ft/lbs
## Install Time:
under 60 minutes
## Directions:
### Remove Original Bar
Raise the rear of the vehicle so that the rear wheels are off the ground
Undo the Endlink 12mm bolt on each side
Undo the D bracket 2x 12mm bolts on each side
Remove the D brackets to allow easier removal of the stabilizer bar
Once removed, insert 5mm allen wrench and 14mm box wrench to undo the endlink nut
Save the endlinks for the new bar
### Install new CTR Bar
Weave the CTR stabilizer bar into place
Attach the endlinks to the lower control arm and hand tighten the bottom endlink bolt.
Slide the endlink stud through the stabilizer bar and hand tighten the endlink nut on the bar
Attach the D brackets to the stabilizer bar and bolt the D brackets to the frame
Torque the D brackets to 28ft/lbs
Torque the Endlink bolt to 28ft/lbs
Torque the Endlink nut to 38ft/lbs
Double-check all bolts
Lower vehicle and test drive with some left to right sharp movements to induce lateral weight transfer
Go up driveways at an angle to verify no binding
Enjoy!
##Troubleshooting
### D bracket does not full lie flat on subframe during CTR bar install
Due to the bonded bushing, it may not 100% line up flat. I insert the lower D bracket bolts on both side and tighten until almost torqued. This moved the D bracket into place and allowed myself a small enough gap to thread in the top D bracket bolts.
### Clunking going up the driveway/lateral weight transfers
Double check the endlink nut torque! It may need to be tighter and require the hex key and a box wrench to tighten further. I had this problem myself and fixed it by tightening the endlink when it was loaded on the ground.
### Endlink to Sway bar nut is STUCK
Loosen the endlink nut while it is on the car still to save some energy unbolting it when it is off.
##Pictures
Top one is CTR, Bottom is Hatch EX
## Initial Impressions
The larger rear bar improved initial turn-in and reduced the amount of input required to make the car rotate. Stability under mid to high-speed corner has also improved. The rear no longer gets upset under minor bumps and imperfections in the road during mid-corner. For the price, this is an amazing upgrade!
## Long-term Impressions for my commuter
As mentioned in the latter posts of this thread, there is a large increase in stiffness in the rear with the CTR that will promote more oversteer. In an emergency avoidance maneuver, it is possible to create an oversteer situation that would be higher risk than factory intended. Some may prefer the dartiness of the new found steering. I find it a little too much for the soft non-Si/CTR spring rates for myself. I think I will change to an Si Bar.
###Edit: 2018-06-02
The extra increase in oversteer is a bit much for me as I mention a few months ago and I don't really need it when I'm in traffic which is about 90% of my drive. I ended up removing it and returning it back to stock. It is a still great upgrade but be sure to test the limits of the car in a safe environment so you as a driver understand how the car will react with the 138% stiffer rear bar. I personally don't need it for my car.
####Edit: 2018-06-13
After a little over a week of driving stock again, I noticed the steering input has vastly increased due to the lack of rear bar now. The car has a larger tendency to understeer. It made the car a little more dull but more managable for a daily commuter. I still think this is a great mod when you pair it with better shocks/suspension to compliment it.
##Changelog
2017-09-06 v1.0 original post
2017-09-07 v1.1 updated the instructions, pictures, torque spec
2017-09-08 v1.2 Added Bar Diameters, Troubleshooting section, reference thread, edits to directions, disclaimer.
2017-10-11 v1.21 Added suggestion about endlink nut being hard to remove when off - Thanks SuXlife!
2018-01-06 v1.3 Added jackstands/hydraulic to the list of tools.
2018-04-24 v1.4 Added that Si bar part number, Long Term impressions, updated TL;DR.
2018-06-02 v1.5 Final Impressions as I remove it to be stock again.
2018-06-13 v1.51 Added Accord aluminun endlinks part number for those who wish to upgrade. Updated final impressions.
2018-07-13 v1.61 Added math and stiffness chart from Whiteline
Last edited:
