CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner

[Camry_to_Civic]

Everyone,

I recently purchased CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo cleaner to clean the intake valves on my 2016 Honda Civic EX-T

However, following the instructions on the bottle, this is where I disconnect the intake tube ( https://www.screencast.com/t/p0fykuWuH90 ) but when I try to spray the liquid, it does not get sucked in just gets collected here ( https://www.screencast.com/t/7HvMI4lCMo ). I think it has to do with the outward slope in that black tube.

Is there any other route I could spray in the CRC GDI intake cleaner ?

(I know some people would say this product is worthless but I also own an Acrua TLX and have used the same cleaner on it and it worked fine.)

Thank You Everyone.

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[CRX]

How many miles are on the car to be using a product like this?

 

[RetroJR]

Everyone,

I recently purchased CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo cleaner to clean the intake valves on my 2016 Honda Civic EX-T

However, following the instructions on the bottle, this is where I disconnect the intake tube ( https://www.screencast.com/t/p0fykuWuH90 ) but when I try to spray the liquid, it does not get sucked in just gets collected here ( https://www.screencast.com/t/7HvMI4lCMo ). I think it has to do with the outward slope in that black tube.

Is there any other route I could spray in the CRC GDI intake cleaner ?

(I know some people would say this product is worthless but I also own an Acrua TLX and have used the same cleaner on it and it worked fine.)

Thank You Everyone.

CAll me skeptical, but this stuff would need to travel all the way through your turbo, intercooler, and piping before it would even reach the intake. Seems like you would want to spray it directly into the intake plenum.
ALso, do you have any evidence that your valves have any carbon accumulation yet?

 

[Camry_to_Civic]

CAll me skeptical, but this stuff would need to travel all the way through your turbo, intercooler, and piping before it would even reach the intake. Seems like you would want to spray it directly into the intake plenum.
ALso, do you have any evidence that your valves have any carbon accumulation yet?

Thanks for the reply ! I do not have any evidence but my wife drives it and she never ever pushes the engine beyond 2k rpms...engine is at 16k miles and I am guessing this should be long enough time to take care of some deposits (whatever there is)

 

[indexcow]

Thanks for the reply ! I do not have any evidence but my wife drives it and she never ever pushes the engine beyond 2k rpms...engine is at 16k miles and I am guessing this should be long enough time to take care of some deposits (whatever there is)

@Camry_to_Civic I would skip the liquid cleaner this round and give it the old Italian tuneup. Take it out on the road while it's warm and dance in the redline a little bit, that should clean out any deposits you are afraid might have built up.

 

[Lovic87]

On my last turbo car, an '03 Saab 93, I removed the piping from the throttle body and gennnnttttllllyyyyyy introduced Seafoam to it. The drive by wire kept it idling as I did so, and then let it soak about 45 minutes. Then I beat the crap out of it and smoked out all the neighbors.

 

[Maximum6]

Have you figured out where to spray your CRC cleaner yet?

 

[Syntek]

Bumping this as I want to know as well.

 

[Doublestack00]

When a repair shop uses stuff like this they connect the liquid to a vacuum line and slowly release it into the engine.

 

[shadow]

Just an idea...

I assume oil enters the intake manifold where the PVC nipple is. For this job, I plan to replace the valve cover to IM PCV hose with any spare piece of hose lying around. Next, close to the IM nipple make a hole just big enough to stick in the valve cleaner can's hose. Punch the hole at an angle so the tip of the straw reaches the plenum of the IM.

Once the can is empty, return the original hose.

I'm hoping since it takes the same path as the oil vapors, it should hit everything relevant.

 

[bubbaleenc]

I did mine over the weekend. I know it made it into the engine spraying the same as OP, because the rpms slacked off with each spray. However, I had an odd situation- even though I had no leak in the intake tube, the effort left a big puddle of the stuff on the ground under the front of my engine bay. I’m guessing it came from my intercooler or BOV. Any ideas? I have not had any leaks before or since.

 

[17siturb0]

Nobody needs to be buying these products. They are useless, they do more harm then good. You wait till the mileage gets right up there. Then you hit up someone with a walnut blaster. As always use the best gas possible, and the best oil when doing oil changes, shorter intervals keeps the oil more clean therefore cleaner engine, higher octane fuel burns cleaner and hotter, cleaner combustion equals less carbon deposits, a hotter combustion equals more deposits that are able to be burned off.

 

[bubbaleenc]

Nobody needs to be buying these products. They are useless, they do more harm then good. You wait till the mileage gets right up there. Then you hit up someone with a walnut blaster. As always use the best gas possible, and the best oil when doing oil changes, shorter intervals keeps the oil more clean therefore cleaner engine, higher octane fuel burns cleaner and hotter, cleaner combustion equals less carbon deposits, a hotter combustion equals more deposits that are able to be burned off.

I'm not trying to refire any debates here, but your assertion that the CRC product does more harm than good is patently false. There is lab evidence on multiple GDI vehicles showing reduced mass and coating of valve deposits, decreased valve sticking and increased airflow past valves when used as directed. What lab evidence do you see showing harm? I would honestly like to see some since this is an assertion made by several folks on several boards.

Regarding High octane fuel, there is no evidence that it burns cleaner or appreciably hotter. Octane is a calculation that represents a relative amount of heat energy required to ignite the fuel without a spark source; the higher the octane, the higher the heat energy required for autoignition. The amount of heat given off by the ignition of any US fuel is roughly the same since there stoichiometry of the fuel burn equation is roughly the same for US fuels.

I'm not knocking usage of walnut blasting - it is a tried and true method. But like Top Tier Fuel additives provide a measure of preventive maintenance to stave off various engine problems, use of high quality products like the aforementioned CRC is also a good preventive maintenance tool. If one decides not to use it, so be it.

 

[baldheadracing]

Sorry but it isn't clear to me: Are you spraying in the right direction (towards the passenger side)? I undo the (other) clamp closer to the air cleaner a bit, slide the tube in, and spray from there.

 

[bubbaleenc]

Sorry but it isn't clear to me: Are you spraying in the right direction (towards the passenger side)? I undo the (other) clamp closer to the air cleaner a bit, slide the tube in, and spray from there.

Correct - I spray away from the MAF and air box and toward the Turbo on the passenger side. I loosened the clamp closest to the air box and inserted the spray tube between the air duct and the air box. I brought the air duct back over the air box flange with the CRC tube within the duct and pointing toward the Turbo.

Absolutely spraying in correct direction - the spray was getting into the engine as evidenced by the engine speed drop with the sprays and a little bit of very pale white smoke from exhaust pipes.

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