Civic Si OTD price thread

Dicecube

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The Si has a higher performance engine (among other under-the-hood specs) though. Why would you expect it to cost less than the Touring?
Without doing any homework, yes I did think the Si would be in between the Ex-t and Touring trim pricing wise. Now I know :D
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Daxal84

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It's not a bad price though. I only had two that came in under 25k OTD, and three that came within $200 over 25k (not sure of your tax rate but it's 6.25% here plus about $110 for Reg/Title).
Thanks It looks like I'm getting in the ballpark of where I should be. I sent the lowest quote I got to another dealership to see if they will beat it.
 

TXMeg24

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Asking someone for their lowest price is one of the least effective negotiating methods you can possibly use. The answer you receive will always be too high.

Instead, educate yourself then tell them what you're willing to pay right now and if they take that price you're ready to sign the papers and take delivery today.

Most other methods such as working dealers against each other, trying to negotiate down, or boasting about how smart you think you are and that you're shopping for the best price don't do anything but waste time, make you look a fool, or piss people off.
Yes, this is true and that has actually been my plan from the start (develop a 'right now' price to offer immediate purchase). And I knew from the get-go that the initial quotes would be high, just because it defies logic for someone to give you their lowest possible price right out-the-gate. But you do have to start the communication somewhere, and asking for their quote seemed to me the most logical. Only after receiving their quotes, was I asked if there was anything more they could do to gain my business.

Should I not have been up front in telling them their price wasn't as competitive as others I'd received? At that point I was still in the initial research/data-gathering/spreadsheet-creating stage and was not 100% ready to 'buy today', and therefore couldn't give them my 'right now' price since I had not yet finalized one.

If anything, I found their reduced-offer responses (or lack thereof) enabled me to gauge each of their willingness-to-negotiate. And by negotiate, I mean accept my 'right now' price once that time came. I suppose I could have just waited and given ALL of them my 'right now' price when I was ready, but I figured narrowing the list down to a manageable size seemed most logical and would actually waste less time overall for all involved (considering some dealers like to email about 2500 times/day ).

If they are secretly annoyed, what do you suggest I do now to remedy the situation (other than just give them my take-home-today price as already planned)?
 

zroger73

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Yes, this is true and that has actually been my plan from the start (develop a 'right now' price to offer immediate purchase). And I knew from the get-go that the initial quotes would be high, just because it defies logic for someone to give you their lowest possible price right out-the-gate. But you do have to start the communication somewhere, and asking for their quote seemed to me the most logical. Only after receiving their quotes, was I asked if there was anything more they could do to gain my business.

Should I not have been up front in telling them their price wasn't as competitive as others I'd received? At that point I was still in the initial research/data-gathering/spreadsheet-creating stage and was not 100% ready to 'buy today', and therefore couldn't give them my 'right now' price since I had not yet finalized one.

If anything, I found their reduced-offer responses (or lack thereof) enabled me to gauge each of their willingness-to-negotiate. And by negotiate, I mean accept my 'right now' price once that time came. I suppose I could have just waited and given ALL of them my 'right now' price when I was ready, but I figured narrowing the list down to a manageable size seemed most logical and would actually waste less time overall for all involved (considering some dealers like to email about 2500 times/day ).

If they are secretly annoyed, what do you suggest I do now to remedy the situation (other than just give them my take-home-today price as already planned)?
Until you have your "right now" price, there's really no need to communicate with any dealer. Your "right now" price should be determined on your own.

Once you have your "right now" price, send out an email blast to as many dealers as you are willing to travel to. Occasionally, you'll find one that accepts the offer.
 
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kingbudd

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Until you have your "right now" price, there's really no need to communicate with any dealer. Your "right now" price should be determined on your own.

Once you have your "right now" price, send out an email blast to as many dealers as you are willing to travel to. Occasionally, you'll find one accepts the offer.
This is what I do, and it's worked out well for me. Do the research, look at truecar, determine what you are willing to spend, and email every dealership you are willing to work with. I know ones I avoid, because of poor management and customer service. As long as your asking price is not out of line, someone will bite.
 


Sparker4504

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Hi Guys,

New to the forum, I previously had a 2015 Lexus RCF which i had to unfortunately get rid of to buy my first home and just replaced it with an SI. I just picked up a 2017 Modern Steel SI lease for 12kmiles/36months in Long Island NY for $260/mo including taxes and fees. Selling price was a tick over 21,500, only first month and DMV at signing.

Thanks,
 

IndyMike

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I stared looking at Civic Si's on Saturday because my 2013 WRX is in the shop at 103,000 miles and looking at $3K-5K of cylinder head work. Can't adjust solid lifters on a Flat-4 without taking the stupid thing out of the car. And a tuner shop (mine is dead stock) said if you have to go that far might as well do a full rebuild for $8K. Seriously, exhaust valves should not recede to near zero lash after 100,000 miles, or require an engine pull to adjust.

Anyway, about the Si:

2018 can get about $2000 net below retail + tax and license with "normal" financing (3.49 to 3.9 through Honda, my bank can do 2.75 probably)
2017 can get about $2400 net below retail + tax and license with 0.9 financing

The 2017 is arriving tomorrow by dealer trade, haven't seen it. I would have expected expect a bigger end of year discount (and I pushed for it), but that's as far as I got - total of $600 cheaper than the 2018. The financing savings over the loan term would be decent though.

Is there any reason to opt for a 2018 in this case? Spec wise they are identical as far as I know.
 

xenotactics

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I stared looking at Civic Si's on Saturday because my 2013 WRX is in the shop at 103,000 miles and looking at $3K-5K of cylinder head work. Can't adjust solid lifters on a Flat-4 without taking the stupid thing out of the car. And a tuner shop (mine is dead stock) said if you have to go that far might as well do a full rebuild for $8K. Seriously, exhaust valves should not recede to near zero lash after 100,000 miles, or require an engine pull to adjust.

Anyway, about the Si:

2018 can get about $2000 net below retail + tax and license with "normal" financing (3.49 to 3.9 through Honda, my bank can do 2.75 probably)
2017 can get about $2400 net below retail + tax and license with 0.9 financing

The 2017 is arriving tomorrow by dealer trade, haven't seen it. I would have expected expect a bigger end of year discount (and I pushed for it), but that's as far as I got - total of $600 cheaper than the 2018. The financing savings over the loan term would be decent though.

Is there any reason to opt for a 2018 in this case? Spec wise they are identical as far as I know.
Get the 17...you keep your cars for at least 100k miles and the .9% with 2400 off is a good deal. As an employee honda sells me the car at 22670
 

sfedai0

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I would make sure to thoroughly test drive and examine the '17 and check for the production date and delivery date. Personally I would think twice about getting a '17 if its been sitting on the lot for a better part of the year.
 


zroger73

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I would make sure to thoroughly test drive and examine the '17 and check for the production date and delivery date. Personally I would think twice about getting a '17 if its been sitting on the lot for a better part of the year.
The sell-through rate means that no Civic Si has been sitting on a lot for more than about 90 days. The last 2017 models were produced as recently as 7 weeks ago, so the average age of a 2017 on the lot is 60-90 days.
 

IndyMike

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How much depreciation will the 17 have over the 18?
Good point, I was thinking of that. I still don't understand why Honda introduced the Si as a very late 2017 model. Most other manufacturers are well into the 2018 MY by the time the Si was available.
 

charleswrivers

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...yeah, that's why I got an '18. If I'm going to pay essentially the same money, I wanted one that may have slightly less depreciation and also not have some hard miles during what should have been it's break in period.
 
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TXMeg24

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How much depreciation will the 17 have over the 18?
Depends on where and when you look. I know KBB doesn't have values on this car for about 3 years, but I did notice that the 2014 at 40,000 mi is actually worth more right now than the 2015 with same mileage (at least for my zip). The values are sales dependent and change so frequently (even multiple times per day) that I have seen this every so often where an older year is valued higher than a newer, but most of the time it is the opposite.

Honda Civic 10th gen Civic Si OTD price thread upload_2017-11-21_15-31-18 Honda Civic 10th gen Civic Si OTD price thread upload_2017-11-21_15-32-49
 


 


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