Adding turbo to 2.0L ?

[equeezy]

Has anyone thought of turboing their 2.0 Cylinder engine?

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[Billy4202]

 

[too]

No. Hardly any room in the engine compartment to begin with. Then, you can only boost so much given its high compression nature...then you have to replace the internals.

At that point, trade in your '16 Civic for an Evo, WRX STi, used BMW M3, used Mercedes C63 AMG or others would result in a better overall car.

If you absolutely have to have a Civic 2.0 Turbo no matter it makes sense or not, go for it. Expect your mileage and reliability to go down.

 

[xjoshuax89]

Go grab the Type R when it comes next year.

 

[GAVZDAD]

I think a twin turbo 1.0 liter would be better.

 

[Deleted User 1886347]

If you want a turbo, get the 1.5L Turbo, or go get a car with a nice one like mentioned above.

If you add one to an engine bay that isn't designed for one (prime example: NA 2.0L CivicX), your reliability is going to go down the toilet, as well as your mileage, not to mention all the internal upgrades (intercooler, ECU, oh god the endless possibilities). I'd rather trade my car in at a huge loss and get something I want and be 10k under, rather than add an aftermarket turbo with the chances of destroying my engine and more.

Or just get the Type R

 

[DarkLight]

No. Hardly any room in the engine compartment to begin with. Then, you can only boost so much given its high compression nature...then you have to replace the internals.

At that point, trade in your '16 Civic for an Evo, WRX STi, used BMW M3, used Mercedes C63 AMG or others would result in a better overall car.

If you absolutely have to have a Civic 2.0 Turbo no matter it makes sense or not, go for it. Expect your mileage and reliability to go down.

This is the conventional wisdom when someone asks about turboing their Altima, F150, Pinto, etc. This being a Honda K-series, it doesn't really apply to the K20C2 that lives in the LX/EX, which is, basically, a port injected, non-turbo variant of CTR engine. It does have a higher compression ratio than the CTR, by 1 point, but the CR is not so high that it cannot be turbo'd and run on pump gas at the same time. The 9th gen Si guys are running as much as 15 psi boost and getting 500+ whp out of their K24's and their CR is over 11:1. Hell, tc'd R18's are getting up to 400 whp on stock internals. This new K20 should deliver much more.

Traditionally, naturally aspirated K20's come from the factory with excellent head flow characteristics, better than any other factory head, and when turbocharged make more power than any other series of engine. Based on the fact that it has forged internals, port injection, a forged bottom end, piston oil squirters, cooled exhaust ports, and uses the same flange as an R18, adding a turbo is about as simple as it would be with any other Honda motor.

The fact it is port injected makes it a better candidate for high hp than any of the other gen x motors that have/will be released, simply because it is not currently possible to upgrade the direct injection fuel system when it reaches 100% of it's duty cycle. The C2, OTOH, would require only an inexpensive injector swap and a bigger fuel pump. So it should actually make more power than the lower compression, direct injected K20C1 in the CTR.

As for diminished reliability, that may be true when using cheap eBay turbo kits, but like anything, you get what you pay for, and if you use quality components and get a good tune, it won't be any less reliable than a factory turbo car, as long as the tune don't exceed the operating specs of any of the critical components.

Me personally, there are 2 things that are stopping me from going turbo: 1. Tuning. Currently there are no boost tables available for the k20 yet. 2. I'm looking into the possibility of swapping a high compression K24 block from an Accord.

 

[cycledrum]

Well, I guess that would be for someone who wants to spend an obscene amount of time and money for something that may or may not work and then end up with a car that has zero trade in value and likely would resell for pennies on the dollar.

 

[too]

My point is that it doesn't financially make sense.

I can call Cosworth and they'll happily take my $25k and build me a Civic long block with all forged part - I'm sure it would withstand 12.5:1 with 20+ psi boost. 12.5 or even higher compression with even higher boost is done on many race cars, Gallardo, GT-R. Even de-stroking the crank and make that thing sing to 12,000+ RPM.

It's all possible and you are correct that been done before, but not many people are going to go "wow, it's a $70k Civic". Just go buy a used GT-R at that point.

There are other things that makes up a "sports car" - good chassis (which again, can be done - just take apart the car, spot weld the seams and put on braces), suspension geometry, brake system, etc. All can be done and improved.

Ask Prodrive - they serve anyone from Subaru World Rally Team, Mini World Rally Team, Aston Martin Racing and many more. At what price though? It makes sense for the manufacturers for promotion, but not for common people.

Say Civic is $20k base, $5k turbo kit, countless hours of time and visits to the shop, plus a few thousands for misc. stuff. Now, you have a great engine setup, but you have no way of slowing down. Here comes Brembo big brake kit, another $3k. Then I may grind the gears or CVT to pieces. Then it doesn't handle....the list goes on and on.

For some $33k, an Evo/STi/WRX has beefed up chassis, Brembo brakes, all wheel drive, ready to hit 400HP by a tune. High end part support, such as Hewland, Quaife, etc. are widely available, while civic "performance gearbox" would be tough to find.

If you have money and time, go for it. I'd just buy an Evo or STi. Been there, done that. If you can argue turbo'ing a Civic makes Civic a great value than an Evo, then I'm all ears.

 

[DarkLight]

My point is that it doesn't financially make sense.

I can call Cosworth and they'll happily take my $25k and build me a Civic long block with all forged part - I'm sure it would withstand 12.5:1 with 20+ psi boost. 12.5 or even higher compression with even higher boost is done on many race cars, Gallardo, GT-R. Even de-stroking the crank and make that thing sing to 12,000+ RPM.

It's all possible and you are correct that been done before, but not many people are going to go "wow, it's a $70k Civic". Just go buy a used GT-R at that point.

There are other things that makes up a "sports car" - good chassis (which again, can be done - just take apart the car, spot weld the seams and put on braces), suspension geometry, brake system, etc. All can be done and improved.

Ask Prodrive - they serve anyone from Subaru World Rally Team, Mini World Rally Team, Aston Martin Racing and many more. At what price though? It makes sense for the manufacturers for promotion, but not for common people.

Say Civic is $20k base, $5k turbo kit, countless hours of time and visits to the shop, plus a few thousands for misc. stuff. Now, you have a great engine setup, but you have no way of slowing down. Here comes Brembo big brake kit, another $3k. Then I may grind the gears or CVT to pieces. Then it doesn't handle....the list goes on and on.

For some $33k, an Evo/STi/WRX has beefed up chassis, Brembo brakes, all wheel drive, ready to hit 400HP by a tune. High end part support, such as Hewland, Quaife, etc. are widely available, while civic "performance gearbox" would be tough to find.

If you have money and time, go for it. I'd just buy an Evo or STi. Been there, done that. If you can argue turbo'ing a Civic makes Civic a great value than an Evo, then I'm all ears.

It won't cost anywhere near $70k when it's all said and done, not even half that. That is, if you do the work yourself.

A drop-in turbo kit with a decent turbo, like a Borg-Warner EFR, will cost about $4k, with tuning and dyno time adding another $1k. This will give a reliable, streetable 400 whp (conservative) which the stock tranny will handle. So factor in a clutch/coilovers/brakes about $3-5k depending on quality. All in all, a nice street build can be had for about $10k, and you'll be able to stomp most of the V8 muscle on the street/track due to low parasitic losses in the drivetrain and high power/weight ratio. Our cars can be stripped down to sub 2,500 lbs. if need be.

Building a Honda costs less than the competition, that is if you know what you're doing and you do it right.

 

[too]

And that's where our wisdom differs....why mine is conventional and yours is unconventional. At that price point, I'd just buy an Evo, which internals have higher tolerance for stress and HP. Even an option to spend a little more and get dual clutch gearbox.

FWD generally makes a terrible sports car due to understeering anyway - hence, F2000 and NSX. I get the power to weight, but that's only good on a drag strip.

I'm still skeptical about CVT with 400HP (and manual for that matter), but I guess someone will do that homework for me.

 

[pwschuh]

It won't cost anywhere near $70k when it's all said and done, not even half that. That is, if you do the work yourself.

A drop-in turbo kit with a decent turbo, like a Borg-Warner EFR, will cost about $4k, with tuning and dyno time adding another $1k. This will give a reliable, streetable 400 whp (conservative) which the stock tranny will handle. So factor in a clutch/coilovers/brakes about $3-5k depending on quality.

Nonsense. You are correct that it wouldn't cost $70K, but wrong about the outcomes. First of all, there is no such thing as a "streetable" FWD car with 400 HP. About 300 HP is all you can practically use in a FWD car. Drag car is a different story, but that's not the subject of the conversation here. Second, you won't make 400HP with a "conservative" tune on this motor, not even at the crank, let alone the wheels. A reliable 300-325 at the wheels is doable with a good deal of boost. (and the increased fueling to support). I've been building 4-cylinder turbo cars for decades.

 

[equeezy]

As I seen on Instagram it has been done, but not that many people have done it so far

 

[DarkLight]

Nonsense. You are correct that it wouldn't cost $70K, but wrong about the outcomes. First of all, there is no such thing as a "streetable" FWD car with 400 HP. About 300 HP is all you can practically use in a FWD car. Drag car is a different story, but that's not the subject of the conversation here. Second, you won't make 400HP with a "conservative" tune on this motor, not even at the crank, let alone the wheels. A reliable 300-325 at the wheels is doable with a good deal of boost. (and the increased fueling to support). I've been building 4-cylinder turbo cars for decades.

That's great, but you seem to not be familiar with the K series. For instance, this KMOD performance stage 1 turbo will give 620 whp on a 9th gen Si, so this should give an idea as to what the new K20 is capable of. And there are plenty of other drop in kits that deliver similar #'s.

https://kmodperformance.myshopify.com/collections/kmod-turbo-kits/products/kmod-fg4-fb6-turbo-kit

http://blog.vittuned.com/andress-turbo-honda-civic-r18/

And as for being capable of being street driven, the right suspension setup, wide sticky tires, and tuning tweaks like boost by gear and torque limiters make it possible.

My last built car, mk4 VW TDI, was putting out nearly 400 ft.lbs. to the wheels (at 2,100 rpm's ) , using only bolt-on parts I might add, and I was able to tame that beast with some tweaks from my tuner, solid engine mounts and suspension bushings, and a very aggressive coilover setup. I drove it for 4 years in that modified state as a daily. Only bad thing about it was the cabin vibration, plus it ate up tires, no matter how slowly I tried to drive.

 

[xcivicx]

put me down for a kit. taint gunna cost all that. me i don't need 400 hp, not even 3, just over 2 would will be fine. my last road trip told me i need some more hp.
in the future.

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