2017 Si subwoofer upgrade

[beejpowers]

First off, I cannot tell which trim level this headunit matches. It is a 10 speaker setup in the car.

Second, I'm assuming that the line feeding the stock sub has an LPF on it. Or does the HU or amp do actual crossovers?

Third, when people are replacing the sub, where are they getting their signal from? If the sub wires have an LPF on them, the new amp probably won't be getting all the signal range it needs to set better crossover points.
If you're tapping into the lines feeding the woofers, then the settings in the HU "EQ" (Treble, Mid, Bass) would directly affect the signal going to the amp. So if you turned bass down for the door woofers, it would be pulled out of the signal going to the new sub amp.

This is my first install using a factory head unit, so sorry for the questions and assumptions. I guess if I didn't care about using the A/C or heat, I could just pull it out!

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[brothaMan84]

 

[sdj544]

Don’t know the answers to #1 or 2.
Tried to get that info myself, and didn’t in time and decided it didn’t matter.
The subwoofer level control and feed was obviously independent and it didn’t matter to me if it sent higher frequencies. I could just use my subs built in lpf to eliminate the upper frequencies.
So I just tapped into the wires going to the rear deck woofer (not even going to call it a sub) for my underseat sub. (Left deck woofer in-line)
Seems to work fine that way. The adjustment for the bass seems to have minimal (any?) effect on the sub. Haven’t really spent that much time playing with it to really determine for sure what the controls were doing. Thought about breaking out the reference microphone I have for my laptop but sounded fine and I was too busy to care.
In the end bass -1 or 2 took the bass out of the doors. Have mid +1, treble 0 and subwoofer 3/4. Sub was obviously sending only low freq so I left lpf off on sub. Between the subwoofer control on the head unit and remote on my sub have plenty of signal.

Hope that helps.
-S

 

[Micah]

Which sub/enclosure/amp? Using the LC2 adapter?

 

[beejpowers]

Don’t know the answers to #1 or 2.
Tried to get that info myself, and didn’t in time and decided it didn’t matter.
The subwoofer level control and feed was obviously independent and it didn’t matter to me if it sent higher frequencies. I could just use my subs built in lpf to eliminate the upper frequencies.
So I just tapped into the wires going to the rear deck woofer (not even going to call it a sub) for my underseat sub. (Left deck woofer in-line)
Seems to work fine that way. The adjustment for the bass seems to have minimal (any?) effect on the sub. Haven’t really spent that much time playing with it to really determine for sure what the controls were doing. Thought about breaking out the reference microphone I have for my laptop but sounded fine and I was too busy to care.
In the end bass -1 or 2 took the bass out of the doors. Have mid +1, treble 0 and subwoofer 3/4. Sub was obviously sending only low freq so I left lpf off on sub. Between the subwoofer control on the head unit and remote on my sub have plenty of signal.

Hope that helps.
-S

Is this on an Si or a trim that has woofers and “sub” in the rear deck?
Mine has a dedicated sub. Just not sure if it’s worth tapping into that line alone or if I should go for both L&R woofers for full spectrum and then filter in amp

 

[sdj544]

Using a Cerwin Vega VPAS10 subwoofer. On an Si as OP asked about: oem head unit and 10 speaker setup.
(Think it’s the same as the touring, but the Si doesn’t seem to have the rattle problem)

Not sure why you’d want to have the full spectrum, especially if you’re going to be filtering it out anyway. You’re not ever going to want the sub to be playing anything higher than what’s going to the woofer. Plus you have more ways to control it.

-S

 

[beejpowers]

Using a Cerwin Vega VPAS10 subwoofer. On an Si as OP asked about: oem head unit and 10 speaker setup.
(Think it’s the same as the touring, but the Si doesn’t seem to have the rattle problem)

Not sure why you’d want to have the full spectrum, especially if you’re going to be filtering it out anyway. You’re not ever going to want the sub to be playing anything higher than what’s going to the woofer. Plus you have more ways to control it.

-S

I was asking about the woofer for full spectrum because I wasn’t sure if the dedicated sub line had too much LPF.
What did you use to connect the sub speaker connector to the new amp wiring?

Thanks for the info.

 

[sdj544]

I’d be more worried that because of the woofer that the left and right arent being sent low end.
Don’t feel like I’m hearing bass from the deck in the same way that the doors do.

I just used the crimp connectors that splice into the line by clamping down around it. I know that some people have just soldered to the speaker tabs.
-S

 

[beejpowers]

I’d be more worried that because of the woofer that the left and right arent being sent low end.
Don’t feel like I’m hearing bass from the deck in the same way that the doors do.

I just used the crimp connectors that splice into the line by clamping down around it. I know that some people have just soldered to the speaker tabs.
-S

Follow up question:
You have a single line into the amp or do you split it into both L&R RCA in? If single line, which Line In do you choose?

 

[HondaPro]

I think you guys are playing with fire unless you absolutely know what you are doing. You need to research ohms law. Measure the impedance of each speaker with and w/o load. Then do the same with the replacement speaker. Keep these numbers in recommended tolerance. If you are trying to block frequencies use a quality cap for each speaker. So if your sub is like 100hz and lower? Cap your lows from you mids 120hz and higher for a cleaner peak listening level.

 

[beejpowers]

I think you guys are playing with fire unless you absolutely know what you are doing. You need to research ohms law. Measure the impedance of each speaker with and w/o load. Then do the same with the replacement speaker. Keep these numbers in recommended tolerance. If you are trying to block frequencies use a quality cap for each speaker. So if your sub is like 100hz and lower? Cap your lows from you mids 120hz and higher for a cleaner peak listening level.

Yeah. I know what I’m doing.
That’s why I’m trying to find out what’s coming out of what speaker line so I can manage frequency distribution to the proper speakers!
Also… Fire is fun!

 

[HondaPro]

Maybe buy a set of components that include a crossover kit. Or experiment with crossover kits from a quality brand manufactures. Soldered caps in the lines can work also. I would assume the tweeter has its own cap and the mainly the mids and sub need addressed. I would keep the mid above 120hz and the sub under 80-100hz.. That should nail what you are trying to do.

Yeah. I know what I’m doing.
That’s why I’m trying to find out what’s coming out of what speaker line so I can manage frequency distribution to the proper speakers!
Also… Fire is fun!

 

[zroger73]

First off, I cannot tell which trim level this headunit matches. It is a 10 speaker setup in the car.

Second, I'm assuming that the line feeding the stock sub has an LPF on it. Or does the HU or amp do actual crossovers?

Third, when people are replacing the sub, where are they getting their signal from? If the sub wires have an LPF on them, the new amp probably won't be getting all the signal range it needs to set better crossover points.
If you're tapping into the lines feeding the woofers, then the settings in the HU "EQ" (Treble, Mid, Bass) would directly affect the signal going to the amp. So if you turned bass down for the door woofers, it would be pulled out of the signal going to the new sub amp.

This is my first install using a factory head unit, so sorry for the questions and assumptions. I guess if I didn't care about using the A/C or heat, I could just pull it out!

(1) It's the same system used in the EX-T and EX-L coupe and similar to the system used in the Touring coupe and sedan except without navigation.

(2) and (3) The head unit sends digital audio to the amplifier via a S/PDIF connection. The head unit has no line level or speaker level outputs. The amplifier has 10-channels and uses DSP-based processing and equalization to send only the appropriate frequencies to each speaker. The head unit communicates settings and other information to the amp via an RS-485 serial connection.

Here's a couple of threads that might be of interest...

http://www.civicx.com/threads/2017-si-factory-sub-how-does-yours-sound.14020/

http://www.civicx.com/threads/added-a-mini-subwoofer-finally-have-some-bass.14819/#post-279004

http://www.civicx.com/threads/audiophiles-touring-factory-eq-curve-doesnt-change-with-volume.6814/

http://www.civicx.com/threads/shut-up-and-take-my-money-stereo-install.7556/

http://www.civicx.com/threads/touri...output-but-some-features-are-in-the-amp.2714/

 

[beejpowers]

Maybe buy a set of components that include a crossover kit. Or experiment with crossover kits from a quality brand manufactures. Soldered caps in the lines can work also. I would assume the tweeter has its own cap and the mainly the mids and sub need addressed. I would keep the mid above 120hz and the sub under 80-100hz.. That should nail what you are trying to do.

Well… crossover should happen at the same frequency. You’re described setup ignores 20Hz of frequency.

 

[HondaPro]

* The amplifier has 10-channels and uses DSP-based processing and equalization to send only the appropriate frequencies to each speaker. Don't over think it and just leave it alone.. lol

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