Prl cobra cold air

PRL Motorsports · Sep 19, 2017

Rockstar08 said:
Yes I found your thread in a different forum thanks. So I know that you guys added your dp and other components. Do you know how much your new CAI added by itself on your tuned car once you added just that part, just curious? Thanks, Tom

We would have to take everything off of the car to test this. We modified and recorded data in steps to keep things consecutive.

Si_Gus said:
@PRL Motorsports will the race maf be available for those who purchase the street maf for now?

Yes, the Race MAF housing will be available for purchase for those who wish to upgrade in the future.

MikeGSi said:
@PRL Motorsports ?

We will not be doing a SRI. We feel that our Stage 1 Intake system is the best bang-for-the-buck solution for those not looking to go full CAI. We are not very worried about hydro-lock.

jakabony said:
They already mentioned that their stage 1 system is sufficient for those who do not want a CAI. Having a short ram on this motor will create only noise, but also result in heat soak that ultimately reduces power.

Nighthawk · Sep 21, 2017

How long will the sale price of $319 be for the cobra CAI?

tee804 · Sep 21, 2017

Nighthawk said:
How long will the sale price of $319 be for the cobra CAI?

Mine isn't 338.57$ with shipping.

PRL Motorsports · Sep 22, 2017

Nighthawk said:
How long will the sale price of $319 be for the cobra CAI?

Until CAIs are in stock and begin shipping. Planning to have everything in stock by the week of 11/20

jakabony · Sep 22, 2017

PRL Motorsports said:
Until CAIs are in stock and begin shipping. Planning to have everything in stock by the week of 11/20

Looks like I will have something to install during my long Thanksgiving weekend!

tee804 · Sep 22, 2017

PRL Motorsports said:
Until CAIs are in stock and begin shipping. Planning to have everything in stock by the week of 11/20

Have ya ship mine yet? I pre order since 9/5/17, my order number 3740

Design · Sep 22, 2017

jakabony said:
They already mentioned that their stage 1 system is sufficient for those who do not want a CAI. Having a short ram on this motor will create only noise, but also result in heat soak that ultimately reduces power.

I theory, I mildy disagree. The FMIC should be doing a majority of the work to keep BATs within 1-4% between stock, SRI and CAI. Where the CAI has an advantage is the induction of ambient air from an idle condition. Once at speed, 96-99% of cooling should come from the external inductor and intercooler. The air is simply moving too fast in the piping to absorb excessive heat between the filter and MAF.

A good test is to touch the intake piping (stock or aftermarket) after idling 5 minutes. Then run the same test after driving the car above 30 MPH for 5 minutes. The latter test should be fairly cool to the touch, whether stock, SRI or CAI.

On a stock tune, SRI and CAIs "should" both provide a volumetric advantages over the factory intake (10-15 HP). On a flash, the addition of an intake should yield only a couple HP on an SRI. And 3-6 HP on a CAI (see Hondata's testing results). I suspect it's because the ECU parameters have already been optimized. But that's just theory until more data becomes available.

My 2 cents...

jakabony · Sep 22, 2017

Design said:
I theory, I mildy disagree. The FMIC should be doing a majority of the work to keep BATs within 1-4% between stock, SRI and CAI. Where the CAI has an advantage is the induction of ambient air from an idle condition. Once at speed, 96-99% of cooling should come from the external inductor and intercooler. The air is simply moving too fast in the piping to absorb excessive heat between the filter and MAF.

A good test is to touch the intake piping (stock or aftermarket) after idling 5 minutes. Then run the same test after driving the car above 30 MPH for 5 minutes. The latter test should be fairly cool to the touch, whether stock, SRI or CAI.

On a stock tune, SRI and CAIs "should" both provide a volumetric advantages over the factory intake (10-15 HP). On a flash, the addition of an intake should yield only a couple HP on an SRI. And 3-6 HP on a CAI (see Hondata's testing results). I suspect it's because the ECU parameters have already been optimized. But that's just theory until more data becomes available.

My 2 cents...

Yeah I can’t say I care too much about the theory behind it. That’s what the engineers are for. If it looks good, sounds good, and adds a little power, I’m good with it.

LilToTo17 · Sep 22, 2017

tee804 said:
Have ya ship mine yet? I pre order since 9/5/17, my order number 3740

Pre-Orders Expected to Ship Within 75 Days of 9/5/17

jakabony · Sep 22, 2017

LilToTo17 said:
Pre-Orders Expected to Ship Within 75 Days of 9/5/17

Wait so you are saying that it hasn't shipped yet? "Planning to have everything in stock by the week of 11/20" must have not been clear enough LOL. Sorry can't help myself.

tee804 · Sep 22, 2017

LilToTo17 said:
Pre-Orders Expected to Ship Within 75 Days of 9/5/17

Man it gonna be cold to install!!

Faduzer · Dec 22, 2017

How hard/easy is it to hydro lock a car exactly. Ive always wondered.... like filter splashed with water could do it? or its more like, it actually has to be submerged partially?

I feel like I'm worrying too much about it? I've had CAI's in the past and don't know that I even know of anyone who's ever hydro locked a car. I think I'm in the majority when I say it seems mostly anecdotal evidence on the topic. (not to say it doesn't exist but something I've always heard is a possibility but never seen happen)

I live near Cleveland OH.. we get enough precipitation to worry about a deep puddle but streets don't flood or anything.

Any advice/help/info is greatly appreciated

jakabony · Dec 22, 2017

Faduzer said:
How hard/easy is it to hydro lock a car exactly. Ive always wondered.... like filter splashed with water could do it? or its more like, it actually has to be submerged partially?

I feel like I'm worrying too much about it? I've had CAI's in the past and don't know that I even know of anyone who's ever hydro locked a car. I think I'm in the majority when I say it seems mostly anecdotal evidence on the topic. (not to say it doesn't exist but something I've always heard is a possibility but never seen happen)

I live near Cleveland OH.. we get enough precipitation to worry about a deep puddle but streets don't flood or anything.

Any advice/help/info is greatly appreciated

I’m close by in Pittsburgh. You have to get a lot of water into an engine for it to hydrolock. That being said, the filter placement is behind the fog light and above some pretty extensive shielding. It would take driving through water that is past the fog light for an extended period of time to run a chance of hydeolock I would think. For us, a little common sense is in order. Keeping those things in mind, you will have no issue.

maddmatt02 · Dec 22, 2017

I somewhat disagree there. I think it takes a lot of water *on the road* to hydrolock, as in your not just going to go through a small puddle and have it happen. And because of how much piping we have yes I feel it would take a LOT of water to get a substantial quantity to a cylinder. But in case somebody misinterprets the quote about needing to get a lot of water into the engine... The physical space in the cylinder when the piston is at TDC is not that big, doesn't take much water to fill it.

jakabony · Dec 22, 2017

maddmatt02 said:
I somewhat disagree there. I think it takes a lot of water *on the road* to hydrolock, as in your not just going to go through a small puddle and have it happen. And because of how much piping we have yes I feel it would take a LOT of water to get a substantial quantity to a cylinder. But in case somebody misinterprets the quote about needing to get a lot of water into the engine... The physical space in the cylinder when the piston is at TDC is not that big, doesn't take much water to fill it.

Point taken, I really just meant that you would need to get a lot of water near the filter to have a risk of hydro lock.

Prl cobra cold air

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