1.5T 0W30 Thread

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un hombre

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So how does that 0w30 working for you? how does your engine likes the juice?
I don't know what my engine thinks plus, I have no facility over here to do oil analysis. All I know is that fuel consumption is the same, engine sounds smoother at high revs and I am no longer afraid to rev the hell out of it.

The oil smells less like gas (but this could be attributed to harder driving and break in), oil seems to be cleaner after more kilometers than on the original oil.

The only problem I see is that I have to stick to the oil minder to maintain the warranty and the computer does not recognize premium oil. This means that at the current rate, it will ask me to change oil every 7-8000 kilometers, in my current driving style...

Another thing is, that Amsoil's 0w-30 is on the thinner side, not so far away from 0w-20 in terms of parameters - that is why I think it should be a good choice if oil dilution is present.
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ddood

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I don't know what my engine thinks plus, I have no facility over here to do oil analysis. All I know is that fuel consumption is the same, engine sounds smoother at high revs and I am no longer afraid to rev the hell out of it.

The oil smells less like gas (but this could be attributed to harder driving and break in), oil seems to be cleaner after more kilometers than on the original oil.

The only problem I see is that I have to stick to the oil minder to maintain the warranty and the computer does not recognize premium oil. This means that at the current rate, it will ask me to change oil every 7-8000 kilometers, in my current driving style...

Another thing is, that Amsoil's 0w-30 is on the thinner side, not so far away from 0w-20 in terms of parameters - that is why I think it should be a good choice if oil dilution is present.
Just finished my 1st oil change. Got the dealer to use the Amsoil SS 0w30 and Mobil 1 EP oil filter I supplied. Will see how it goes.

FYI, every oil change here includes an oil filter replacement according to the maintenance schedule.
 

CivicXI

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Engines have little to no wear once they're up to speed. There's a very very thin range of operating conditions that results in wear, even if rpms are being fluctuated by shifting gears. It is pretty much always riding on a thin film of oil as long as there's enough oil flow (which thicker oils can actually prevent).

I suspect the Honda engineers know what they're doing and I would presume that they would've built in enough safety on top of having a really conservative specification in designing the motor. If I were spec'ing the motor, it would be spec'ed to run at the lowest range of 0W-20, which for really cheap crappy oil, could approach that of oil that maybe only has 25% life left on the OLM.

The design and subsequent life cycle criteria would then entail 4 start-ups a day at the coldest temperatures (where the most wear occurs) for 10k cycles (power train warranty + 50%). Mileage wouldn't matter since there is no wear under steady cruise conditions but would probably include at least 120 hours at red line (5 straight days) at minimum 80% duty cycle. Life cycle probably should also endure at least the # of revolutions equal to 200k miles of varying RPM's.

Mind you all of this would be designed for the worst oil. In this case, if you're starting with new good quality 0w-20, you're already ahead of the curve.

When mitsubishi designed the next generation to the 4G63, the 4B11t, it was stress tested at something like 200 hours of operation at WOT then shut off, restarted for two stints of 24 hours each. That's like, 50000 miles at 120 mph.

Personally, I never had a problem with my 4b11t motor at 140,000 miles. It was driven hard. Shifted usually between 3500-5500rpm. Every time it was driven it spent time above 6000rpm. A lot of miles were at high speed on the highway, 90+mph with the engine above 4000rpm for literally hours on end (gearing was very short). Everyone said the 4b11t beat up on oil and to change at 2000 miles. The manual called for 3000 max. I changed the oil between 5000-6000, running 1 oil change to nearly 10000 miles. Mind you this was on a car where 3000 was the max suggested by the manufacturer. The older the car was, the harder I ran it (cause I didnt care at that point). Towards the end, there was one trip where the motor was at 5000rpm for a good half an hour. I'm sure the turbo was glowing red hot. I had to wear ear plugs on that trip because the car was so loud.

When I opened it up at 120k, there was some unusual vibration from the engine. I opened it up and it was SPOTLESS. Timing chain tensioner (with the older pre-recall flawed chain and tensioner) only had 25% of wear. Weird noise never went away but I drove it for another 20k trouble free miles. Could it have failed at 200k? Maybe... but I got my money's worth.

I suspect if you used any quality oil and changed at 20% OLM, you'll be good until you're bored of the car or everything else around the engine falls apart.
 

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Engines have little to no wear once they're up to speed. There's a very very thin range of operating conditions that results in wear, even if rpms are being fluctuated by shifting gears. It is pretty much always riding on a thin film of oil as long as there's enough oil flow (which thicker oils can actually prevent).

I suspect the Honda engineers know what they're doing and I would presume that they would've built in enough safety on top of having a really conservative specification in designing the motor. If I were spec'ing the motor, it would be spec'ed to run at the lowest range of 0W-20, which for really cheap crappy oil, could approach that of oil that maybe only has 25% life left on the OLM.

The design and subsequent life cycle criteria would then entail 4 start-ups a day at the coldest temperatures (where the most wear occurs) for 10k cycles (power train warranty + 50%). Mileage wouldn't matter since there is no wear under steady cruise conditions but would probably include at least 120 hours at red line (5 straight days) at minimum 80% duty cycle. Life cycle probably should also endure at least the # of revolutions equal to 200k miles of varying RPM's.

Mind you all of this would be designed for the worst oil. In this case, if you're starting with new good quality 0w-20, you're already ahead of the curve.

When mitsubishi designed the next generation to the 4G63, the 4B11t, it was stress tested at something like 200 hours of operation at WOT then shut off, restarted for two stints of 24 hours each. That's like, 50000 miles at 120 mph.

Personally, I never had a problem with my 4b11t motor at 140,000 miles. It was driven hard. Shifted usually between 3500-5500rpm. Every time it was driven it spent time above 6000rpm. A lot of miles were at high speed on the highway, 90+mph with the engine above 4000rpm for literally hours on end (gearing was very short). Everyone said the 4b11t beat up on oil and to change at 2000 miles. The manual called for 3000 max. I changed the oil between 5000-6000, running 1 oil change to nearly 10000 miles. Mind you this was on a car where 3000 was the max suggested by the manufacturer. The older the car was, the harder I ran it (cause I didnt care at that point). Towards the end, there was one trip where the motor was at 5000rpm for a good half an hour. I'm sure the turbo was glowing red hot. I had to wear ear plugs on that trip because the car was so loud.

When I opened it up at 120k, there was some unusual vibration from the engine. I opened it up and it was SPOTLESS. Timing chain tensioner (with the older pre-recall flawed chain and tensioner) only had 25% of wear. Weird noise never went away but I drove it for another 20k trouble free miles. Could it have failed at 200k? Maybe... but I got my money's worth.

I suspect if you used any quality oil and changed at 20% OLM, you'll be good until you're bored of the car or everything else around the engine falls apart.
So I should just stick to 0w-20?
 

Civics4Ever

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People can speculate all they want, I trust Honda engineers. Just did 3rd oil change, 1st one at 7,500 mi., 12,000, and now 17,600. All Mobil1 full synthetic. If anything, the engine feels stronger than ever. There is dilution, no doubt. But I don't believe it's significant enough unless you go past 10,000 mi between changes. 5 quarts for less than $23 bucks at Walmart, not bad.
 


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I love how people assume that fuel dilution = wear.

Hell I can design a journal bearing that can maintain hydrodynamic separation with paint thinner. Doesn't mean a thing if you're doing an apples to oranges comparison between different motor designs.
 

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So I should just stick to 0w-20?
I would stick to 0w-20 through the warranty. But I am at 5200-ish miles and still on the FF. <gasp> Has anyone left their FF longer than this? Speak up, now.
 
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CivicXI

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I would stick to 0w-20 through the warranty. But I am at 5100-ish miles and still on the FF. <gasp> Has anyone left their FF longer than this? Speak up, now.
I have 5400 miles on my FF. OLM reads 50%. Keeping it in it until it hits 20%.
 


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Dump it ASAP! You'll thank me when you see what comes out.


Actually I was way off lol. I checked this morning and it's at 50% with 6300 miles.


I kept a mitsubishi evo X 4b11t running for almost 10,000 miles once on 5w-30 with frequent changes at 6000+ miles. The oil always came out reeking of gasoline and looked like muddy paint thinner but the motor never skipped a beat. I got rid of the car at 140k and the inside of the engine was spotless. Everything else around the car was falling apart lol.


I trust that the Honda engine designers have their due diligence in spec'ing out the OLM routines. Even at 0%, I suspect there would be some cushion. On my team, our life cycle tests officially end at the designed life cycle but then we unofficially continue testing to 200%. Our advertised life is 100% of the design life cycle but we never pass a product unless off the record we can get to 125-150% in testing.


A lot of people see the motor oil losing viscosity and/or being diluted and automatically assume that there's wear when that's far from the truth. The bearings in a motor rely on the incompressible nature of a fluid to work, but not directly the viscosity nor oil pressure. The pressure just gets the oil to the bearing. If you had to go extremely thin or extremely thick, thin actually works better. Most of the wear happens from contaminates. The bigger the contaminant, the less chance it has to get into a small gap to cause wear. It’s the small contaminates that you have to worry about. Which is why a slightly used oil filter is actually much better than a brand new one because it filters better. Throughput is usually not a problem because most filters will still pass way more fluid than the motor requires when loaded to its rated spec. Unless the filter completely loads up and it goes into by-pass, it’s better to just keep an old filter in.

I suspect at 0% OLM, the greatest risk is in depleting the TBN in oil. Nothing else, in a properly designed motor, should see any detriment.

Honda Civic 10th gen 1.5T 0W30 Thread PA290401[1].JPG
 

CivicXI

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So that's even worse... Dump that crap ASAP!
Just saying... according to the super duper engineers who get paid 6 figure salaries to figure out this stuff, 6300 miles at the way I drive, is at 50%... I get 6300 miles is scary in and of itself for a single OCI on a turbo engine with a 3.5 qt sump but i can't figure out what's so inherently bad about that.
 

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Just saying... according to the super duper engineers who get paid 6 figure salaries to figure out this stuff, 6300 miles at the way I drive, is at 50%... I get 6300 miles is scary in and of itself for a single OCI on a turbo engine with a 3.5 qt sump but i can't figure out what's so inherently bad about that.
It's the original oil you've been breaking in your new engine with... Drain it out ASAP and see for yourself how broken down and contaminated it is. Then you'll be good to go.
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