Injen Intake for 10th Gen 2016 Civic Turbo: Huge Power Gains!

I don't think it's as high as you're trying to suggest. At least when considering virtual methods. And to be fair, you are describing the same conditions that exist at the drag strip. Technically, neither will provide more reliable results over the other. Running a car down the strip is subject to the same limitations as datalogging down the same stretch of road.

This argument existed on the MS3 platform for several years, long before a viable tuning solution was available. Mazda claimed that a simple Mazdaspeed intake (available as a factory accessory) was good for a 20+ HP gain. And as the results began to trickle in, both on the dyno and at the strip, the data became irrefutable. Several dozen owners with dyno readings taken back-to- back over 3 years from '07-'09, all averaging 7-9% gains over baseline readings. I'm not suggesting the same type of results are possible on the 1.5. But I'm not yet willing to rule out modest gains either.

I bring this up because the more data we get, the more insight we gain. Even if the results are slightly skewed, that's better than having nothing at all.

My 2 cents...

PRO Civic said:

It is harder to dyno this car than previous generation Civics due to the ECU dynamically changing the timing. You have to dyno and datalog (with FlashPro) the car and keep ECT, IGN, knock control, air temps, etc. consistent within a small margin to really know if the part is gaining power or not. We just recently had this experience dyno'ing a throttle body spacer on our 2017 1.5T M/T sedan.

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How much gains did the spacer make?

Beginning to lose hope in this forum. Lots of misinformation and people thinking they know what they're talking about.

CEXT said:

How much gains did the spacer make?

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I'm not allowed to say anything yet, but it did produce a gain in hp and tq.

Ryude said:

Beginning to lose hope in this forum. Lots of misinformation and people thinking they know what they're talking about.

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The subject of dyno testing and vehicle performance is fairly complicated, and I can see why people get confused sometimes. So long as there is no mud slinging, I see it as enthusiasts just having a healthy debate about what is right and what is wrong.

Has anyone with a CAI gotten hydrolock? I hear you can only really get it if the filter is submerged. So I guess you have to be in a pretty deep puddle or lake and accelerate. We get a lot of rain here so I almost went with short ram, but I ended up with the cold air config. I don't plan on driving through puddles deeper than the door openings but hope I don't have any problems on bad rains or medium size puddles

Stevo said:

Has anyone with a CAI gotten hydrolock? I hear you can only really get it if the filter is submerged. So I guess you have to be in a pretty deep puddle or lake and accelerate. We get a lot of rain here so I almost went with short ram, but I ended up with the cold air config. I don't plan on driving through puddles deeper than the door openings but hope I don't have any problems on bad rains or medium size puddles

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I went with a cold air Intake and bought the hydroshield to protect it from getting wet, I live in cali

PRO Civic said:

I'm not allowed to say anything yet, but it did produce a gain in hp and tq.

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When can we know the gains? I would be interested in the spacer since it's the cheapest of all the available boltons that don't make much power on our anyways.

I have a feeling, if you have an intake, you would make more power with the FP 6psi vs the FP 6psi + intake base map. I asked Hondata the difference, and they said the only difference was a minor tweak to the AF ratio. And since Hondata is quite conservative with their tuning, they likely make the AF ratio extra rich with the intake to prevent knock, protect the CVT, etc. (there's no way they make it leaner). So my assumption is, if you have an intake, run the 6psi tune and use the best fuel possible for max power (which will prevent knock, while running leaner).

CEXT said:

I have a feeling, if you have an intake, you would make more power with the FP 6psi vs the FP 6psi + intake base map. I asked Hondata the difference, and they said the only difference was a minor tweak to the AF ratio. And since Hondata is quite conservative with their tuning, they likely make the AF ratio extra rich with the intake to prevent knock, protect the CVT, etc. (there's no way they make it leaner). So my assumption is, if you have an intake, run the 6psi tune and use the best fuel possible for max power (which will prevent knock, while running leaner).

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So what, run the stock intake +6psi tune even with the injen SRI installed?

NorthernEX-T said:

So what, run the stock intake +6psi tune even with the injen SRI installed?

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I run AFE drop-in with 6psi tune currently. I asked Doug about running 6psi + Injen, because I loaded it by accident and didn't know how to change it. He said it's not a big difference either way, and that changes to AFR are minor.

Stevo said:

Has anyone with a CAI gotten hydrolock? I hear you can only really get it if the filter is submerged. So I guess you have to be in a pretty deep puddle or lake and accelerate. We get a lot of rain here so I almost went with short ram, but I ended up with the cold air config. I don't plan on driving through puddles deeper than the door openings but hope I don't have any problems on bad rains or medium size puddles

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Getting water in the engine is not the end of the world as long as you get it out before it does any damage. I had an 8 inch flood on my street where my old 6-Speed Accord with an Injen CAI was parked and tried to wade it out. My front right tire went down in a pothole and I sucked up a gulp of water and killed my engine. I just waited out the flood then pulled my spark plugs and spun the starter for 10 seconds to spit out all of the moisture. I reinstalled the plugs and was on my way in less than 15 minutes.

UberCivic said:

Getting water in the engine is not the end of the world as long as you get it out before it does any damage. I had an 8 inch flood on my street where my old 6-Speed Accord with an Injen CAI was parked and tried to wade it out. My front right tire went down in a pothole and I sucked up a gulp of water and killed my engine. I just waited out the flood then pulled my spark plugs and spun the starter for 10 seconds to spit out all of the moisture. I reinstalled the plugs and was on my way in less than 15 minutes.

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Sounds lucky. The issue is usually the water fills the cylinder up and on the compression stroke causes too much pressure. Can blow piston rings, rods, rod bearings, valves... all kinds of bad things. Just sucking up some moisture isn't that big of a deal, it's when your intake turns into a straw.

Turbo models are probably a bit safer with the turbo, FMIC, and all the piping. That's a long way for water to travel.

Snoopyslr said:

Sounds lucky. The issue is usually the water fills the cylinder up and on the compression stroke causes too much pressure. Can blow piston rings, rods, rod bearings, valves... all kinds of bad things. Just sucking up some moisture isn't that big of a deal, it's when your intake turns into a straw.

Turbo models are probably a bit safer with the turbo, FMIC, and all the piping. That's a long way for water to travel.

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Yeah, the key is to know what happened, shut it down right away, and don't try to re-start the engine until it is dry. An ICE is just a big air pump, so pulling the spark plugs and spinning the starter will dry it out pretty quickly. Trying to chug through it and/or restarting the car with the moisture still there is an easy way to blow an engine.

PRO Civic said:

That's good to hear. I have no experience with AF Dynamic specifically, so I was just generalizing based on my previous experience with companies that make exact copies of other products.

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Anybody know if the AF dynamic CAI is hard to install?Thanks!