engine isnt making factory boost level

MTD · Jan 15, 2017

Things like operating temps and low fuel can also effect the boost. Ive had a few turbo cars in the past that wouldnt hit full boost if the car was low on fuel and/or not up to operating temps.

Ryude · Jan 15, 2017

CEXT said:
I actually think my boost became less after running on 91 octane. If what you say is true for the civic, then maybe the car doesn't need as much boost because the higher octane facilitates more advanced timing. Hmm...maybe higher octane doesn't make more power in this case...

It can make more power if Honda programmed it to make more. There's a lot of ways to make more power, and technically speaking adding more boost is the least attractive option since it adds the most heat and cylinder pressure. But some tuners can make it safe by retarding timing by a lot.

Just depends on the tune and mods.

fletan · Feb 11, 2017

I just started losing boost also this week, car has few miles on it, weekend driver mostly now with the bad weather and all. But I have noticed a drop in power, boost gauge goes half way or less when pulling hard at proper operating temps.

It is cold lately in Toronto
Have been using the same gas since day 1 , Shell Nitro 91
1600km on odometre

???

bubbaleenc · Feb 13, 2017

fletan said:
It is cold lately in Toronto

I suspect that is the issue... my EX-T gets best power when air temperatures are from around 30F to about 70F and best gas mileage when air temps are from around 55F to around 85F.

In your situation, I think the intercooler is over-cooling the intake air when temps go much under 0C causing the mapping of the higher-octane fuel to get confused. The computer is measuring the combustion chamber temperature and probably miscalculating the spark timing, which will activate the the spark knock sensor depowering your engine and thus causing it to not engage as much boost.

Silly as at may seem, I bet if you run high-quality 87 octane you will get better performance until temperatures go back over freezing. Worth a try at least...

fletan · Feb 13, 2017

bubbaleenc said:
I suspect that is the issue... my EX-T gets best power when air temperatures are from around 30F to about 70F and best gas mileage when air temps are from around 55F to around 85F.

In your situation, I think the intercooler is over-cooling the intake air when temps go much under 0C causing the mapping of the higher-octane fuel to get confused. The computer is measuring the combustion chamber temperature and probably miscalculating the spark timing, which will activate the the spark knock sensor depowering your engine and thus causing it to not engage as much boost.

Silly as at may seem, I bet if you run high-quality 87 octane you will get better performance until temperatures go back over freezing. Worth a try at least...

Thank you for the info!!!! Much apprecciated

RallyeTouring84 · Feb 13, 2017

I've been putting 93 Octane since I first purchased my 2016 Touring CVT (20,500 miles). I have noticed that it doesn't hit "full boost" with this digital meter. So should I revert back to 91 even 87 Octane? at least until I get my hondata flashpro?

Quicksipper · Feb 13, 2017

RallyeTouring84 said:
I've been putting 93 Octane since I first purchased my 2016 Touring CVT (20,500 miles). I have noticed that it doesn't hit "full boost" with this digital meter. So should I revert back to 91 even 87 Octane? at least until I get my hondata flashpro?

93 will get you less boost because the ecu is compensating for that power. you will get more boost with 87 but all in all its about the same.

93 will give you better response down low. when timing is advanced boost is cut. I will try and find the link where Vitviper talks about this

http://www.civicx.com/threads/moving-from-ktuner-to-hondata.8572/

"If you put in 93 octane, don't you want more power, or are you happy with the same power as 87 octane? Because more ignition timing and lower boost does not make "more power", it would make the same as the higher boost at lower ignition timing. Describing this as "torque model" is naive. It's a great way of classifying a behavior in the ECU that maybe isn't understood or has not been worked through properly yet. But then I have to ask: why is this only happening on CVT's? The MT's aren't plagued by this behaviorin nearly the same capacity."

CEXT · Feb 13, 2017

RallyeTouring84 said:
I've been putting 93 Octane since I first purchased my 2016 Touring CVT (20,500 miles). I have noticed that it doesn't hit "full boost" with this digital meter. So should I revert back to 91 even 87 Octane? at least until I get my hondata flashpro?

I used to hit full boost when i ran 87, and a couple bars less with 91, and 3 or 4 bars down with 91 and cold weather. Basically, the better the conditions are for making more power, the less boost it will make. The end result is probably slightly more power (like what the sport makes I assume). I think the CVT is protecting itself because full boost, advanced timing a cold weather means more power and more wear and tear.
After Flashpro, it's full bars every time you mash it!

bubbaleenc · Feb 14, 2017

CEXT said:
...I think the CVT is protecting itself because full boost, advanced timing a cold weather means more power and more wear and tear.
After Flashpro, it's full bars every time you mash it!

You are likely onto something there. Every cc of air has more molecules of Oxygen as temperature drops (air is denser as it gets colder). You never want an internal combustion engine to run overly lean - heat buildup in the engine and overworking of slipping components in the transmission are huge problems when an engine is run too lean. The turbo won't need to push as hard to get the same amount of O2 into the combustion chamber to run at ideal stoichiometry when the air is cold. If it did push hard, the engine would run lean causing the aforementioned potential problems.

I'd love to see an ultra-cold temperature dyno (sub-zero F) on 87 versus 93 octane with a stock mapping to see what effect fuel burn temperature has on wheel hp with the dense cold air. The results could be quite valuable in determining how much power can be obtained from the right mapping and components (bigger IC, re-routed exhaust / air intakes, upgraded clutches, even more precise FlashPro maps, etc.).

bmbpenguin · Mar 3, 2017

Ok, I've read this whole thread and this is what I glean from it. BTW - I am having the same issue and why I read the whole thread. I am maxing out at 8psi. 17 Hatch Sport, CVT. Boost gauge is from OBD2 Connector and Torque app on smart phone. Current mileage on car is 1558. If anyone knows the PID code for the 17 Hatch, that would help calibrate the reading on the app.

So, what I get from this is stock tune learns driving habits and if you don't aggressively drive all the time, it won't give you full boost. Ktune or Hondata can solve this. Resetting ECU may or may not give full boost. Sounds like I need to buy a tuner. (on the list)

And now the question: Is the car programmed to limit boost during a break-in period?

Sgtstaadanko · Mar 3, 2017

bmbpenguin said:
Ok, I've read this whole thread and this is what I glean from it. BTW - I am having the same issue and why I read the whole thread. I am maxing out at 8psi. 17 Hatch Sport, CVT. Boost gauge is from OBD2 Connector and Torque app on smart phone. Current mileage on car is 1558. If anyone knows the PID code for the 17 Hatch, that would help calibrate the reading on the app.

So, what I get from this is stock tune learns driving habits and if you don't aggressively drive all the time, it won't give you full boost. Ktune or Hondata can solve this. Resetting ECU may or may not give full boost. Sounds like I need to buy a tuner. (on the list)

And now the question: Is the car programmed to limit boost during a break-in period?

Using the torque app my boost always reads about 5psi lower than my datalogs show. At this point I'm trusting the datalogs. A tuner is definitely in your future if you want the 16-19 psi advertised. Keep in mind that this engine can also adjust boost based on density of incoming air, so in the winter time, when it sees denser air, it will cut some boost, but crank up the timing advance which in the end gives more torque. Boost is not always the key with our engines.

I did not experience boost drops during break in. If anything that's when I had my strongest boost. Maybe a boost leak check would be a good idea for you.

hfpdohc · Mar 12, 2017

no problem with my m/t
always full boost

mpir413 · Jun 27, 2019

dc2turbo said:
most new cars will not allow you to brake and gas at the same time. due to the toyota prius stuck acceleration problem a few years ago.

I know for sure the Civic 1.5t cvt will not do it since i have tried it a while ago

"
Honda-Acura

Honda announced two years ago that it was committed to applying “Brake Priority Logic” on 100 percent of all Honda and Acura passenger vehicles with automatic transmissions, with the first application coming to market in August of 2010. The vehicle was the all-new hybrid-only subcompact car, the 2011 Honda CR-Z. For the remainder of the 2011 model year, about half of Honda and Acura vehicles had the system. For 2012, the system, which Honda now calls Brake/Throttle Override, is on all Honda and Acura vehicles.

How the system works is explained to buyers in Honda and Acura vehicle owner’s manuals, but here’s a brief summary. The Brake/Throttle Override function applied to Honda and Acura models monitors the electronic throttle control (accelerator pedal) output signal. If that signal becomes static (meaning stuck) AND then the brake pedal is applied, after 0.1 seconds the throttle will be gradually reduced to near idle level over the course of about one-half second.

Ed Miller, Honda spokesman, tells The Car Connection that Honda chose to have a less abrupt throttle system than some other systems in the market. “The one-half second is quite noticeable to the driver, but we judge it to be less unsettling, so the driver can recognize the vehicle is slowing down due to reduction of engine power, but does not confuse the condition with a stalled engine,” said Miller.

Brake/Throttle Override is not applied to vehicles with manual transmissions because Honda believes that clutch is sufficient to allow the driver to decouple the engine power from the driven wheels."

So according to that i guess if you keep the gas pedal moving up and down then it would work

I can confirm this. I have a 2018 SI, and break boosting doesn’t work at all. If you try to press both petals at the same time the car just acts like you are breaking, unless clutch is in and downshifting. However, when downshifting load is taken off the engine so boost can’t be built.

engine isnt making factory boost level

MTD

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Ryude

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fletan

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bubbaleenc

Owning the country roads.

fletan

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RallyeTouring84

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Quicksipper

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CEXT

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bubbaleenc

Owning the country roads.

bmbpenguin

Brian

Sgtstaadanko

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hfpdohc

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mpir413

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