HID's for 17 civic

[midnightcivic]

Majority of the wiring harnesses already come in with two relays, including the morimoto. I don't think people are aware what a relay is and questioning why one is required when it is already included in the harness.

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[556ALPHA]

Majority of the wiring harnesses already come in with two relays, including the morimoto. I don't think people are aware what a relay is and questioning why one is required when it is already included in the harness.

An additional relay to what is already in the Morimoto harness is not required, and not what those here are suggesting. They are just stating that a relay is required.

For example DO NOT do it this way and use an adapter to use the OEM headlight harness input to directly power the ballasts.

 

[CivicXI]

Not sure what all the fuss is about.

A 35watt HID with a good ballast that starts off low and takes it's time to warm up draws less current both upon surge and steady state vs. a 55watt halogen bulb.

If your factory wiring can handle a 55watt halogen, it can handle a good 35 watt HID.

The real issue is with 55watt HID kit's or those with ballasts that slam the bulb with current to fire it up quickly.

 

[Snoopyslr]

Not sure what all the fuss is about.

A 35watt HID with a good ballast that starts off low and takes it's time to warm up draws less current both upon surge and steady state vs. a 55watt halogen bulb.

If your factory wiring can handle a 55watt halogen, it can handle a good 35 watt HID.

The real issue is with 55watt HID kit's or those with ballasts that slam the bulb with current to fire it up quickly.

That "starting off slow" is the HID drawing drastically more amperage than a halogen bulb draws when you turn them on. This in-rush at start up is what causes your thin factory wiring to heat up. That heat will damage the insulation on your wires and eventually fail, causing a short and most likely frying your OEM headlight wiring harness.

 

[relentlessX]

Everyone loves Morimoto in both the HID kit and LED conversion kit. I went with DDM Tuning (reason below). Going with an HID kit will be a huge improvement over the factory halogens for both visibility, brightness and color. Depending on which LEDs you get, the improvements will be in color and brightness. But the visibility is questionable since most have reported an LED inside our projector housing does not give a very good throw compared to halogen bulb or HID kit.

If your installer says you don't need a relay, then listen to your installer and don't put one on. If anything happens, then hold your installer accountable. But will a $15-$20 relay be that much of an issue to install? Or is a $15-$20 relay that much of hit to your wallet?

HID's require an initial surge of wattage to power the ballast and ignite the bulb. Whether you get a cheap or high end HID kit, this initial surge happens. After the initial surge, then the ballast will control and maintain the draw whether it be 35w or 55w.

Using a relay creates a direct connection to your battery instead of your factory headlight wiring which is thin to begin with. So the initial surge will happen directly with the battery through the relay. Most relay kits are $15-$25 depending on brand. Small price to pay for a better and cleaner surge of power to ignite your HID's. Let alone the peace of mind.

I myself run a DDM Plus 55watt HID Kit with a relay. DDM Tuning is local to me so the lifetime warranty on the ballast and bulbs is an easy swap if something were to go out on me.

 

[CivicXI]

That "starting off slow" is the HID drawing drastically more amperage than a halogen bulb draws when you turn them on. This in-rush at start up is what causes your thin factory wiring to heat up. That heat will damage the insulation on your wires and eventually fail, causing a short and most likely frying your OEM headlight wiring harness.

Depends on what kit you have.

Someone did a test of a DDM 55watt HID kit and it was the same as a stock 55watt Halogen in both steady state and inrush. To the wire, it makes no difference.

http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html

 

[Snoopyslr]

Depends on what kit you have.

Someone did a test of a DDM 55watt HID kit and it was the same as a stock 55watt Halogen in both steady state and inrush. To the wire, it makes no difference.

http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html

Nice data, but it still shows a spike when cold. Not much duration in the spike, but it's still a 25% increase in the 35w kit.

If your installer says you don't need a relay, then listen to your installer and don't put one on. If anything happens, then hold your installer accountable. But will a $15-$20 relay be that much of an issue to install? Or is a $15-$20 relay that much of hit to your wallet?

This.

It's about safety and reliability. Do you really want to be leaving work one day and your headlight wire melts and you can't drive home because you have no headlights. A relay kit is going to be your insurance that you don't have to repair anything months/years down the road.

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