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I can confirm mine is the solid whiteline 22mm.

I was in the same position as you OP in addition to us being a one car family and a kid on the way at the time. I echo the 22mm bar size is perfect for daily and really brings out the best in the car, and my wife sees a significant difference in the cars overall responsiveness even to the point...

You'll definitely have to ensure you get the revamped ones as one of the dealers were trying to sell me the old ones. If what you need is the same as my FK7 then it's 06160-59B-305. Got it from Honda and told them I'm from [my mechanic shops name] so they gave me the wholesale price of $554.25...

#4 here was similar for my issue along with fuel trims in the 20's too. Coolant wasn't decreasing at all and compression tests were all good. I also tried the coilovers switch and replaced the spark plugs. In the end we replaced the injectors all issues were gone. I also ran Amsoil p.i. and BG...

Not to deviate from your request, but Costco has heated gloves on sale...

More experienced tuners can chime in but I'd future proof your head gasket if I were tuning at your mileage. Adding some ARP head studs would do the trick.

Check around the obd port and see if the other end of the wire is there somewhere. If so, it's just a cable for a tuner they used often enough to route a cable through to the passenger side where they'd likely have their laptop connected to it.

Only way to find out is to open the console. It isn't a challenging feat by any means, however.

Has anyone figured out a fix for the audio only controllable for the front outputs? While they put out sound to all the speakers, if I adjust the fade from front to back, it cuts out audio entirely, which makes sense since the RL/RR audio outputs aren't connected. Also, key fob/proximity...

Ok, now my head hurts trying to decipher what you said here. Passing this to anyone else that has the patience.

You'll need to provide more info than just the emotions running through your head. Not a single thing you said was usable. I'm not even sure where to start asking for examples. It might be better you visit a professional mechanic locally.

I echo sending a message to TSP about this. Their customer service is above par and may help you out. I had the street tune and just requested the race one and he sent it my way for free without charging. Worst case they do have a conversion fee of $15 so it's not as bad as paying for a new tune.

SOP's for even the simplest things are a godsend for my ADHD stricken life. Thank you.

Not yet, no rush for me at this point. Good to know at least one person is interested lol so if you're good to wait longer let's do it.

TSP is much more forgiving than Phearable from what I've experienced. Phearable just said flat out no in terms of switching fk7 types. When the real reason is the ECU model differences. The chances of you getting an identical ECU model are slim to none though so I understand them keeping the...

Do you have any clue as to why I'm getting such a high knock count?

Vehicle: 2020 Civic Sport Touring Hatch 6MT Total tuned time: 5 days Tuned miles driven: 400 km (75,000 kms prior to tune) Tuning device(s) used: KTuner v1.2 Tunes used: Started on Base map stage 1. Just got TSP stage 1 Fuel used: Costco 91 or Esso 93 Additional related mods: PRL stage 1...

To answer your question the only reasons I can think of to not buy directly from Phearable/TSP is if you wanted to customize your own tune, and/or if you buy the unit used. In my case I was looking to save money so I the unit bought off FB marketplace and bought the TSP stage 1 tune separately...

Try to follow these steps to the letter: 1. Turn off interior dome light door switch. 2. Car off, open hood, disconnect negative terminal from battery. 3. Wait 20 mins. 4. With key fob in hand and thumb over the unlock button, reconnect negative terminal. Immediately pres the unlock button...

Did you try driving it for a while, then turn the car off and back on? Honda has a weird thing where if anything has been altered in the ECU or if the battery disconnects it disables all the electronic assistance until it completes all its internal validations which clears usually after a drive...